Legacy777

That small hose after the throttle body is the canister purge line. My reasoning for not using it is because on the older throttle bodies there is some form of black goo around the throttle plate. I've been told it helps reduce carbon deposits, but I can attest it also helps seal the throttle plate. On the older TB's there was a bypass needle valve. When I got rid of the black goo, the car idled extremly high. I didn't notice the screw until I checked evrything. I screwed the screw down a little, and everything was fine. On the throttle bodies without the screw, you'd probably be ok if you got rid of the stuff....but for me.....I'm rather wary about touching that stuff. So I'll use the PCV valve.

Take the car some where else. This guy either doesn't know what he's doing, or he's trying to screw you. Here are the prices I paid for all the parts that you really should replace, or would be "affected" Timing belt: $43.16 Idler gear: $55.26 Tensioner pulley $83.36 Idler pullies: (2) $59.96 each Tensioner: $74.90 Water pump: $75.56 (note: this price is for a turbo water pump, yours will probably be slightly less) Cam seals: probably around $6 each Crank seal: $5.33 So we're at around $470 right now....and we're using Subaru genuine parts. I can pretty much guarantee he wasn't planning on buying all the stuff I listed above.

Try www.subarugenuineparts.com They are a subaru dealership that sells parts online. They are the cheapest online dealer I have dealt with (and always cheaper then your local subaru dealer)....and I've used about 4 or 5 of them now.

Just a few questions/comments for you. The cats don't really hinder performance that bad, and in most cases if you have a big open area that was cat, performance is going to be worse. If you replace that section with pipe, I can see a benefit there. Otherwise, you really didn't gain much by knocking out the cat. What did you do to advance camshaft timing? Why did you fiddle with the throttle cable tension? The voltage regulator on these cars is in the alternator. Did you remove/alter that one and install the aftermarket one? Porting and polishing the heads will definitely help on top end power. The MSD DIS 2 ignition is a very good investment. Myself and others with it, have been very happy with it. I don't really follow your CO2 kit idea. Why would you want to inject CO2 into the intake/throttle body? CO2 is non-combustible, and by injecting it into the engine, your decreasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion. Plus it's being injected after the MAF sensor, so that's just going to play havoc on things, and just not work. If you are trying to cool the intake charge with CO2, I have seen a "ball" like object that is inserted into the intake track. CO2 is then injected into that. The intake air goes around it, and cools. It is said to have very little pressure drop across it. Which is good, and why you don't see intercoolers on n/a cars, because they add pressure drop, and since you're typically using air to cool the intake charge, you really can't get much cooler unless you're using a refrigeration or cryogenic system.

You're welcome. Let us know how it turns out.

I had mine done at steve moyer....they do all the work for the subarus at my uncle's company.

no idea

Use the PCV valve. If you use the brake booster, you are only hitting one side of the motor.

That's way too much money. Timing belt is about $45, and on that car, it should take a max of two hours to do the tbelt alone if the mechanic is any good. $200-250 is what I would consider normal for the timing belt. To do the water pump shouldn't be much more labor, 30 min....tops. I don't see how all those things could cause. Did he take everything apart? If he did, ask him to show you why it's all those things.

You used the incorrect sealant. Use Permatex ultra grey sealant. Shouldn't be more then 10 bucks.

The speedometer is transferred from mechanical to electrical in the combination unit (dash gauge). It's signal is sent to the ECU. You should be able to find the speed sensor input to the ECU, and tap into it there http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page3.jpg

You going to do the work yourself, or a shop? I just did one on a turbo legacy in about 2 hours....and let me tell you the turbo legacy motor is a major pain compared to the non-turbo motors. Plus this one was greasey as hell, and complete disaster. It's not that hard to do. Here's some pics of a shredded timing belt caused by an idler gear seizing. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/shreddedtbelt/

What year and model car?

One will be just before the front catalytic converter and the second one will be in the mid pipe after the second catalytic converter.

I don't know the specifics on the LSD additive

They limit how much you can d/l in an hour, so there's only so much you can get.

Insert a fuse in the FWD fuse holder next to the passenger strut tower. If the shudder goes away, it's torque bind. Changing the transmission fluid may help. Also, some have had good luck with adding LSD diff additive to the trans fluid.

Did you try adding some refrigerent? You may want to take it to a shop. It'd be nice to know what the high side pressure is. Most shops have an ac diagnosis service for like 20 bucks or something.

I think Glen's on the right track. It'll probably be less work to just rebuild your engines.

My legacy did this too. It would stumble and sputter if I touch the gas pedal upon start up. If I let it idle for a few minutes, it'd be fine. You can try the coolant temp sensor, however I'm not sure that's the problem. Try running some injection cleaner through the tank. If you can find some seafoam, www.seafoamsales.com run a can of that in the tank.

Not sure. Your intake manifold may or may not line up with the heads on the older motor....

I sort of doubt it. Can you describe in more detail exactly what happens.

Pretty much anything will "bolt on" There may be some issues with electrical you'll have to deal with. Also, you probably have single port exhaust ports. So if you get a first gen legacy 2.2 motor or 2.5, you'll need dual port exhaust headers.

Instructions are on my site under notes & tips, engine related.

bump for a newbie