Legacy777

You're welcome. Let us know how it turns out.

I had mine done at steve moyer....they do all the work for the subarus at my uncle's company.

no idea

Use the PCV valve. If you use the brake booster, you are only hitting one side of the motor.

That's way too much money. Timing belt is about $45, and on that car, it should take a max of two hours to do the tbelt alone if the mechanic is any good. $200-250 is what I would consider normal for the timing belt. To do the water pump shouldn't be much more labor, 30 min....tops. I don't see how all those things could cause. Did he take everything apart? If he did, ask him to show you why it's all those things.

You used the incorrect sealant. Use Permatex ultra grey sealant. Shouldn't be more then 10 bucks.

The speedometer is transferred from mechanical to electrical in the combination unit (dash gauge). It's signal is sent to the ECU. You should be able to find the speed sensor input to the ECU, and tap into it there http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page3.jpg

You going to do the work yourself, or a shop? I just did one on a turbo legacy in about 2 hours....and let me tell you the turbo legacy motor is a major pain compared to the non-turbo motors. Plus this one was greasey as hell, and complete disaster. It's not that hard to do. Here's some pics of a shredded timing belt caused by an idler gear seizing. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/shreddedtbelt/

What year and model car?

One will be just before the front catalytic converter and the second one will be in the mid pipe after the second catalytic converter.

I don't know the specifics on the LSD additive

They limit how much you can d/l in an hour, so there's only so much you can get.

Insert a fuse in the FWD fuse holder next to the passenger strut tower. If the shudder goes away, it's torque bind. Changing the transmission fluid may help. Also, some have had good luck with adding LSD diff additive to the trans fluid.

Did you try adding some refrigerent? You may want to take it to a shop. It'd be nice to know what the high side pressure is. Most shops have an ac diagnosis service for like 20 bucks or something.

I think Glen's on the right track. It'll probably be less work to just rebuild your engines.

My legacy did this too. It would stumble and sputter if I touch the gas pedal upon start up. If I let it idle for a few minutes, it'd be fine. You can try the coolant temp sensor, however I'm not sure that's the problem. Try running some injection cleaner through the tank. If you can find some seafoam, www.seafoamsales.com run a can of that in the tank.

Not sure. Your intake manifold may or may not line up with the heads on the older motor....

I sort of doubt it. Can you describe in more detail exactly what happens.

Pretty much anything will "bolt on" There may be some issues with electrical you'll have to deal with. Also, you probably have single port exhaust ports. So if you get a first gen legacy 2.2 motor or 2.5, you'll need dual port exhaust headers.

Instructions are on my site under notes & tips, engine related.

bump for a newbie

You can also remove fuse 14 EGI/TCU fuse for 15/20 min.

Your 1.8 liter only has one timing belt, and doesn't require a special tool It'll look very similar/same as this http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/

Have you checked to see if there are any codes stored in the ECU? Instructions are on my site how to pull the codes. As for the exhaust, yes AWD exhaust will fit on a FWD.

Try replacing the coolant temp sensor.