Legacy777

It's supposed to lock. Have you tried turning the wheel all the way from left to right with the key out?

Is your defrost or AC on? If so, the fans will be on.

it's a new gen vehicle....so we can talk about it right here.

It doesn't sound like anything is really wrong. Some of the control logic in the newer automatics is a little weird, and that may be what you're experiencing.

Can you describe exactly what you mean by a stammer?

the chassis info should be stamped on a plate that is rivoted near the front strut towers on the driver's side (assuming it's left hand drive)

I'd suspect the mass air flow sensor. The black thingy right after the air filter box. I had similar issues with my legacy. It would just lose power when driving on the highway, most of the time I could rev the engine and keep it from dieing. If the rpms were low, the car would just die.

The plastic manifolds have been used on the n/a impezas as well. I believe the new legacy also uses one too. They're fine, and have the benefits mentioned earlier in this post.

alignment specs are kind of subjective. I run zero toe front and rear, and -1.0 degree of camber front and rear. I'd consider that a "performance" alignment though. The shop you take it to should have all the info, personally, I'd run a little bit of camber front and rear and close to 0 toe

Over extended use of the FWD fuse can possibly lead to premature failure of the duty c solenoid. You should be alright for now, but I would try to scrape together the money for tires as soon as you can.

Injectors will not work. You have side feed injectors, wrx's are top feed. Headers are exactly the same as yours The WRX fuel pump requires a fuel controller, so no, you can't swap it....nor the regulator. The intercooler would be beneficial. Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org for a lot more info on the turbo legacies.

Yeah....looks like it's 4EAT AWD http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg

If it's draining from the radiator peakcock, and the level in the radiator cap isn't going down, then yeah I'd say you have a plugged radiator. Try taking off the lower radiator hose and see if the level goes down. If it does, I'd say try swapping out radiators.

Yeah it has a carbon canister. It should be on the passenger side (on a LHD car) under the car near the gas filler neck. It's rectangular.

The 2WD or FWD mode does absolutely nothing while towing because the engine is typically not on. You are NOT supposed to tow an automatic with the wheels on the ground. The reason being the oil pump that lubricates everything is run off the engine. The FWD fuse is supposed to be used when using the spare tire, and as a diagnostic tool.

You may want to ask Matt Monson over on www.bbs.legacycentral.org He's got an RS-RA motor he's taking apart now.

What sort of temp problems are you having? Was the cooling system properly bled? There is a bleed screw on the top of the passenger side of the radiator. Also, if you replace the thermostat, you need to replace it with an OEM subaru t-stat. aftermarket ones are shaped/sized different, and cause issues.

Hey Pete, The sending units in the tank can sometimes get coroded. You can remove them and some times lightly sand the contacts. There are sending units on both side of the tanks. So you should be able to remove the carpet in the back, and get to the access panels where you can remove the fuel pump/sending units.

Yeah the steering wheels are swapable. You'll need a puller to get the steering wheel off.

It may be the connector.....it also may be the pins on the unit. The soldered joints crack.....that may be the issue. You can take a look, have them soldered, or just try and find a used one.

Yeah....finding those puller's would be tough.

I said nothing regarding the rotation of the engine, I said the marks on the belt will line back up after one complete rotation of the TIMING BELT.

There are marks on the back side of the belt. When I do timing belts, I align those marks on the belt with the marks on the cam sprockets & crank gear. The belt is a complete circle. Those marks on the back side of the belt will come around to the exact same spot. If you mark a spot on the belt with a marker. That spot will show up at the same spot after the belt (not the engine, the belt!) has made one complete revolution through the various timing belt components. If you made another mark on the other side of the belt, and watched for that initial mark you made, and rotated the engine so that the BELT made one revolution, the second mark you made will be in the exact same location as when you initially marked it. Will the marks on the cam pullies & crank gear line up with the initial marks on the belt? I don't know. I'll be putting a timing belt on the motor I'm building this weekend, and will play with this. I'm pretty sure the marks will line back up.

Pretty sure the 2000 is still cable actuated throttle. Bottom line is other ECU's will "somewhat" run other engines. The differences in electronics are mainly in the sensors, specifically the MAF sensor, the type of IAC (ie throttle body mounted or intake manifold mounted), and possibly TPS. If the MAF sensors are the same between your car and the car you're taking the motor from, you should be good to use your MAF. Same goes for the other sensors. Going from a 2.2 to a 2.5 will probably have different timing and other stuff, but it's doable. Anything is doable, it's how much time and/or money you have to put into it. Unfortunately, I don't have a simple yes or no answer for you. Have you checked out the conversions forum on nasioc? Josh

I don't really have info on the overseas' gear ratios. You may want to check out www.rslibertyclub.org/forums