Legacy777

I can pull the evap box in 30 minutes, TOPS! (assuming the ac system is depressurized) The A/C system needs to be de-pressurized and the fittings connecting the evaporator lines to the evaporator loosened. From there, you remove the glove box, loosen two bolts, and pull the evap box out. It's cake. With the evap box out, he should be able to determine whether the leak is in the evap itself, or the associated piping, or expansion valve. here's some pics of the evap box. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acevap/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/accomp/

What year legacy do you have? I would assume that the MAF sensors would be similar/same between the same range of model year cars.

It's probably a JDM ECU, but short of that, there's really not much I can tell ya about it. You may want to also try www.bbs.legacycentral.org and http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

You can use cork. I had a cork gasket that worked fine. You just need to make sure not to over torque the bolts, or the cork will squish out. On the flip side, you don't want it too loose either.

Actually the new legacy is lighter. Whether it's lighter then the 2nd gen....I'm not sure. If you're happy with the power in your legacy, the 2.5i should be more then adequate. It's not a Legacy GT or WRX, but it does alright for a normally aspirated engine.

welcome

The fact it has low CO & HC readings doesn't rule out the cat. At high combustion temps, CO & HC will be low. At low combustion temps, NOx will be low, but CO & HC will be through the roof. There is a medium point at which is the best you can get. That is when the two curves cross. That is however if you do not have a catalyst. I'd check for air leaks and such. Dirty MAF probably wouldn't cause your problems, but you can clean it if you want. Take the MAF off, take the sensor portion out of the housing. Spray/clean it with brake cleaner. Hold the can a little bit aways so it's more of a mist that hits the sensor. I also took the back plate off of the housing, and cleaned that up as well. Is the car hard to start when cold? Other then air leaks or MAF sensor, the engine controls the amount of fuel based on the coolant temp sensor. It's a relatively cheap sensor, about 20 bucks from one of the online subie dealers. If you do all that has been suggested, then it's probably your cat. Other thing I'd suggest is to make sure the cat is good and warmed up. If you had the car off or it set for a while before they tested it, and the cat isn't 100%, it's very possible it failed because of that. Go drive the piss out of it, and then get it tested. Also, probably couldn't hurt to run some seafoam through.

Ah ok. A buddy lives up in that area. It's a hike from in town.

nope, no fuse. Power is routed through one of the main fusible links, and then to the injectors, and then sinks into the ECU.

What are you guys doing with these axles? What kind of reman'd axles are you getting? It took nearly seven or more years before I had one go. The reman'd axles I put in from cvaxles.com have been great.

It's probable. I heard that some of the newer impreza models didn't get tapered roller bearings like the older model legacies. However I would "think" the legacy kept the tapered roller bearings. This is for AWD cars of course. I'm also assuming your 97 is AWD & the 90 you got the spindle from is AWD as well. What part of Houston you live in? I'm around the galleria.

So it didn't work at all, not even on hi? The hvac push button thing is known to have bad solder joints, which causes the flapper door that directs air to do nothing. I haven't necessarily heard of issues with the fan motor. One possibility could be the resistor pack. It's located in the evaporator box right behind the glove box.

I'm assuming you have a 90-94 legacy. Here's the diagnostic procedure to pull codes from the computer. It may be of use http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg

What is the level like when you check it on the hot marks? What procedure are you using the check the level? You are leaving the car running, and cycling through the gears before you check it, right?

The 1.8's should be very similar if not the same procedure as the 2.2. It's pretty straight forward. The engines are non-interference, so you can spin them all which way and not damage anything. There is one o-ring you need to purchase if you take the oil pump off. It's the one between the block and oil pump. Changing the crank seal becomes A LOT easier if you remove the oil pump. Also, you should check the backing plate screws that they are tight. here's scans from the factory manual for timing belt work on the 2.2 http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg Pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

I thought all the newer legacies had MAF sensors...... Is there anything wrong with your current motor? 120k on a subaru is peanuts. You could swap the motors. I'd recommend using your current intake manifold and wiring harness. Only issue I can see is if the shape of the port on the heads for the intake is different. That would keep you from using your current intake manifold.

Looking to sell it? Or looking for one? I can't see the demand to be too high. I think there was a guy on nasioc that wanted to convert his WRX to FWD. That tranny would work, but like I said, I don't think there's a huge demand for them.

I'd suggest checking the continuity of the wire from the engine connector plug near the battery to that connector of the injector. It may be damaged. If you get a high resistance value you found your problem. Unfortunately, I don't have a wiring diagram to tell you what pins are what. If it is the wiring, you're probably going to have to try and snake the wiring harness from under the manifold and pull back the wire loom and tape, replace the wire, and then tape everything back up. It may be easier to take the manifold off to get at the loom.

The address is good. Your ISP may not allow things to go through on port 8080. Try this: https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ From your symptoms, it almost sounds like a pressure switch, or temperature sensor. The temp sensor is in the evaporator box behind the glove box. I believe there is an internal cut switch on the compressors of the 90 & 91 models, but not on the 92-94's. There's also a pressure sensor screwed into the receiver/dryer. Have you checked to see if the compressor clutch is engaged when it's not cooling well? That would be my first suggestion.

The 2.2 is cake to do the plugs. The washer thing is definitely a nice little trick. The 2.5 & 2.0 DOHC engines suck!

Gotcha! Yeah I had an idea of how the viscocity modifiers work, but didn't really know the specific name, and all that jazz.

Hmm....with your problems, I'd suspect the ECU and/or possibly the MAF, but those items have been replaced. It's possible you have a wiring problem somewhere. Try pulling fuse 14 (EGI/TCU) for 30 minutes, and see how the car runs.

What exactly is VII? I can't really tell ya what was put in the motor before hand. I bought it used. From taking everything apart, I can tell the motor was in decent condition, but it was probably not taken care of as well as it should. After break in I'll be running a synthetic 10w-30 or 10w-40. The owner's manuals actually recommends 5w-30 for "extended high speed driving"

What car is it? Are the other 3 lighting up fine? I'd retest just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. If it doesn't light up again, start checking the wiring. Does the car have any other symptoms while driving?

The light coming on means that there is a code stored in the TCU. You need to have the codes pulled. That should help in diagnosing the problem.