Legacy777

Are you wanting to install a head unit that has XM, or a separate XM unit with FM modulator or similar?

What kind of stuff do you want to do? "decked out" is a pretty wide scope I'd also suggest checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org

You should have it checked out by an AC shop. You can also check the wiring going to the compressor, and various other AC components for wire that's rubbed through, etc. You may also want to unplug and plug in the connectors at the compressor, pressure sensor, etc. There might be a bad connection somewhere.

On my car, you just pull the plastic pieces off the metal levers. The plastic surround, there's a little door that opens up to show a screw. There's also a plastic screw holding as well.

Check your brake fluid level. The ebrake light is tied into the low fluid warning system.

how much out of whack is it?

First of all Do NOT post in all caps! It's like you're yelling. Second, you've provided zero information on the specific car, model, engine, etc. Personally, I'd reset the ECU and see if the CEL goes away. Pull the battery cable for 30-45 min.

That's really cheap for rotors. They'd "probably" be ok....but couldn't tell you how long they'll last.

Hopefully someone on the board is from your area. You may also want to try http://forums.nasioc.com/forums to see who's in your area. As for the shops. For headgaskets. I'd probably take it to the dealer, or a subaru specific shop.

I believe the guys on www.legacygt.com have gone over this. They may have a solution.

Search on www.bbs.legacycentral.org There are some guys that have done this swap, and ran into the same issue.

here's the problem, and the fix http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html

Simple answer is you can't take the clutch off, you need to replace the whole compressor. Yes you need discharge the system to replace the compressor. I'd really recommend taking it to a shop. AC work is one of those things that even for someone with all the equipment is a little tricky. Spend 30 bucks or something for a diagnostic. A shop should at least be able to give you an idea of what might be wrong, and costs. If you take it to a shop, report back on what they say. Some shops like to just replace everything for lots of money.....which isn't necessary.

what car is this on? also, I haven't really heard of code 400. Is it just a generic evaporative emissions code?

If you have the haynes hvac book there is a table that has the info. In 93, the calsonic system used 8 oz of oil. The zexel system used 5.10. In 95, the system used 5.30. So depending on what system you have, you'll have to split it or something.

automatic or manual tranny? I'd do the fuel filter. It sounds more electrical then mechanical, and the pump and regulator usually don't fail

Yes they should be the same.

you're talking about an auto transmission correct? The manual tranny has two electrical inputs. Neutral switch & reverse lights. Neither of them will cause those issues.

Yeah the spindles should be the same.

What I'd recommend doing is resetting the ECU, drive the car around, and see what codes come back.

Legacy engine? You sure it's just not a 2.5 engine meant to be in there. If it hasn't been swapped, it's supposed to be in there, and I don't think napa knows what they're talking about. Just my thoughts.

I just can't see how a MT can affect the engine/ecu. The tranny is pretty much all mechanical..... If you go up the hill in 3rd, does it still happen?

never heard of one. There is a plastic oil separator plate that is between the block and the vent for the PCV valve. No need to replace it. It's just a plastic plate.

The radiator fans will cylce depending on engine temp, as well as whether the AC compressor is engaged. Either way, you gotta watch the fans/compressor.

they'll work