Legacy777

You're kidding? That's BS! I would've asked to talk to a manager right then and there. Yes if the car has been sitting in the hot sun, it will take a little bit to cool down, however the air coming from the vents should be cold. As for where to look. If you open the hood, the ac compressor is the furthest right thing that has a belt going to it. With the ac off, you'll see the front part of the compressor (clutch) not moving. With the AC on, you should see that clutch moving. Watch that clutch and see how often it engages/disengages.

Are you talking about the HVAC blower fan? Do you have auto climate control? Its speed should stay constant on which ever setting you have it on.

My bad! Spaced, and was thinking about the older VSS.

here's the oil pressure sender. It's below the alternator http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2480.JPG

I've got my own web server, so either way works.

www.subarugenuineparts.com www.1stsubaru.com www.libertysubaru.com Dealt with all three. Call them up, it'll be faster.

I'd recommend the basics, just to rule them out, filters, plugs, etc. Fuel filter would be one of the things I'd suspicious about. Can you be a little more detailed about what exactly the car is doing. Does it only happen on hills? Does the engine cut out completely, or does it feel like it's just losing power. Is it an AT or MT?

may want to try www.subaru-svx.net

Any of the first gen legacies crank pullies and bolts will work.

Go back and complain, or go somewhere else to get an alignment. Did you mean -3.5 deg or -35 deg? If it's -35 deg, that's got to be wrong....your tire would be leaning at that angle. More then likely, this guy had no clue how to use the alignment machine. They probably got it all messed up.

It's possible the engine temp or refrigerent temp got too high, and the ECU kicked it off.

Should just be replacing the light bulb. However getting the bulb out means removing the dash.

Are you guys talking about the fan or the ac compressor. Did you have the hood open and looking at the ac compressor clutch watching it cylce? If not, do that, just to make sure you are looking at the correct thing.

I can scan you the page from the FSM that says to use RTV sealant as well. They should have no leg to stand on for this.

welcome

Is it an auto or manual? The auto tranny has a base piece that does have a rubber gasket included with it. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

that's weird....

Couldn't you find some generic ones that would work?

I guess that all depends on how much you can get the japanese spec motor for, and its condition.

The cable might be sticking. it'd probably be worth taking the cable out, if it's caked up, take the casing out as well, spray the inside with brake cleaner, and then regrease everything.

Do you have an automatic or manual tranny? Does the car need to be running to hear the creak? Is it only the first brake pedal stroke? It's possible the clevis pin does not have grease on it, and it's making the creaking noise from metal to metal contact.

The haynes AC & heating book has the specified amounts of oil needed. I can get you the info when I get back in town this weekend if you don't want to buy it. I wouldn't worry about humidity getting in. As long as they draw a deep vacuum for 30-45 minutes, you'll be fine. Only benefit would be to keep dirt and junk out.

If you torque it to spec, what's the reasoning to using red so that's it's a real pain to get off later. Blue just adds a little extra security to help keep the bolt from coming loose.

Pull the fuses and fusable links out and check for continuity across them. If they're not perfectly zero, they're probably bad. You may have a short somewhere too.

Yup, gotta use that hole to get at the bolts. Ratcheting wrench helps a lot.