Legacy777

The expansion valve is basically an orifice. When you're low on refrigerent, it has to cut pressure quite a bit to maintain a cool temperature. The larger the pressure cut, the more noise you're going to get. Add some refrigerent and it should go away. I'm going to try and add some to my truck tonight.

That's sort of loaded question, because in order to properly explain it I have to explain the entire ac system Anyway, here's a quick and dirty of the parts in your ac system, and how they work. The following is the order in which the refrigerent & oil go in. Compressor Condensor Receiver/drier Expansion Valve Evaporator The refrigerent is in gas form, and goes through the compressor, its pressure increases as well as its temperature. The refrigerent then goes through the condensor where it loses heat, and condenses into a liquid. The reciever is more or less a filter, and contains dessicant to help remove moisture. Next you have the expansion valve. The valve cuts the pressure & temperature of the refrigerent. The refrigerent also goes from liquid to gas through the valve. The cold refrigerent then goes through the evaporator where the air blows across it to get cold and go into the cabin. Then the process repeats. there's more theory behind it, but that's the jist of it. Here's a link with a pic http://home.howstuffworks.com/ac2.htm

No they will not work.

My expansion valve is hissing at me after my recharge. It probably needs a little more refrigerent.

Do you have a part # for the parking brake stuff? If you do, you can check prices yourself https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html actually, you may be able to find it by browsing through the catalog

You guys need to let the refrigerent cans sit there for a little while. Set them in the engine bay where it's hot. It helps get most of the refrigerent out. I just redid my truck on saturday. Pulled a vacuum for about 30-45 min, Let the one can put as much as it could in without the engine running. When it stablized, I turned on the engine, and let it draw the refrigerent out of the can. Like I said, be patient.

Carl, I believe there is a sport shift on the autos. However I can't really say how they are. I'd recommend just goin and test drive the different models. You're in the Dallas area right? Give Subaru of Dallas a try. Talk to Kevin Heist. He's one of the guys on the texas subaru boards on nasioc. Tell him I told you to see him. He "should" be able to work with you to get a pretty good price.

Yeah, 75 amps sounds ok. You could email one of the online subaru parts dealers here and ask them what the part # is. I'd suggest dropping Jamie an email www.subarugenuineparts.com or www.libertysubaru.com

You should be able to move the compressor off to the side as well. As for converting it. Read this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2442&page=1&pp=10&highlight=134a+conversion

No, keep the bulbs you have. The silverstars have a tint on the bulb that filters the light. So with the same wattage bulb, the ones with filters will output less because some of the light is being stopped by the filters.

Bruce, You already have a post asking this question. No need to start a new thread.

what adjustment bolts are you talking about?

They should work fine. I can't confirm the strut top mount difference. I don't think there should be any though.

I think there's an adjustment. It's either at the handle side, or the latch side.

If you can find one, it'd probably be worth replacing.

It's pretty straight forward. I believe the clutch fork design is the same. So if you've done clutches in the older guys, you should be good.

Any codes stored in the ECU? Have you checked your knock sensor? I wonder if it's not working. You might want to test it. Replace it, and then reset the ECU.

Redline D4 ATF is good stuff.

You don't need to align anything for TDC. You align the marks on the cams and crank to the marks on the cover and oil pump. Are you sure you're using the correct mark on the crank gear. Don't use the arrrow on the front of the gear. Use the mark on the back of the one tab. Here's pics of my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/ Factory manual scans for the timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg

As of right now, the only way to do that is with a piggy back computer or stand alone. The perfect power piggyback ECU looks to be pretty good. It's sold by www.rallitek.com some guys over on www.bbs.legacycentral.org are working on hacking the stock ecu.

I did not notice a difference in reduction of hesitation with the washers. This was before it came loose. So I just removed them. The "hesitation" I was experiencing was related to the automatic transmission. Once I did my swap, I didn't have any hesitation issues.

ATF fluid is not a lifetime fluid. Frequent changes will definitely prolong the life of the tranny.

The canister purge solenoid can intermittantly mess up, and cause the CEL to be illuminated. I drove across country, my CEL would pop on and off for a state or two. I'd recommend just replacing it. If the solenoid sticks open, it can cause poor idle issues, but other then that, it shouldn't be a big deal You can buy the solenoid online from https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html part # is 14774AA351

The teflon washer thing really doesn't work. I tried it, it made no difference, and the bolt actually came loose, creating more issues. 115k on the orig O2 sensor.....it's probably time to be replaced. Check out https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

It might be a sticking valve or solenoid. There isn't a filter, just an internal screen. The newer ones got a spin on external filter, however I don't know how effective it is. It's probably just a screen type filter as well. Other then putting some synthetic trans fluid in, not sure what else to suggest.