Legacy777

If you do go with an AWD trans replacement from a different year/car. Make sure you check that the front diff has the same gear ratio as your rear.

I would think the pans are similar Don't know the costs for the 2.5 specifically, but the ej22t motor, rings cost around $118. Pistons run about $55 a piece. If you decide to split the block, which you probably don't need to, you should replace the bearings. You said the engine had only a slight tick? Any idea what was causing the tick? It might be a good idea to check the bearings if oil starvation might have been an issue.

Does it work now? If you're still having issues, try this https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru/techinfo/ac_control_wiring.doc

I'd probably put the 2k in for the tranny. Just my 2 cents.

Does your 96 have the 2.2 or 2.5? $2000 really isn't too bad. You won't find much of a car for that unless you score a screaming deal. At that kind of mileage, I would expect the normal wear items will need to be attended too. How long have you had the car? Did you do the routine/preventive maintenance?

If the crossmember is bent, you could replace the crossmember with a new one. This is assuming the chassis has not been tweaked. I'd also probably check or replace the a-arm as well.

You said you got a new engine. Was it the same exact engine? Did you use the sensors that were on your original engine, or the new one that you used? Was it a brand new engine, or a low mileage swap?

It should work. You'll probably need a FWD transmission computer as well. You'll also need a FWD trans mount too. I've got a brand new one I bought to make a custom mount when I had my AT. If you're interested in it, let me know.

Here is the gear ratios for the first gen legacies 90-91 AT & MT 4.111 92-94 AT 3.900 92-94 MT 4.111 91-94 AT & MT turbo 3.900 So depending on what trans the 92 legacy has, will depend on what the final drive ratio is.

I've never heard of it leaking out of the shifter shaft. You may want to try and clean the area off, and double check that it isn't the seal on the drive line. if it is the shifter shaft, you'd have to remove the rear portion of the trans. I think you might be able to get it out without removing the trans....

here's skip's write-up http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/ac_control_wiring.doc

That rear seal and where the shaft goes in is a real pain. You may want to search or ask on www.bbs.legacycentral.org as well.

may want to try posting in the meet & greet forum as well. Welcome

Run a can of seafoam through the engine, and see if it helps www.seafoamsales.com

Hey cookie. I'm in Houston. Is he just going to be in Dallas, or down in Houston as well? If he's going to be in Houston, yeah I that'd be cool to meet up.

I don't think that's the engine number. Where did you find that number on the engine?

I shipped one.....and it's about 40 lbs or so. I don't remember exacts, but I think it's around that ball park...give or take 10 lbs. Yeah it can easily handle 210 ft-lbs of torque. If you don't get an anser regarding the pinion, I can try and look at the fsm's when I get back in town

Where does he smell it from....inside the cabin or engine bay? Tell him to look at the front passenger plastic end cap. It typically cracks in the part facing forward.

I don't know if they make a haynes or chiltons manual for your year. This may be of interest to you. The factory service manual. If you want the whole thing, please d/l the zip file http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/

You probably have the old style knock sensor. It should be replaced. The newer ones aren't prone to crack like the old ones. As for testing the MAF, here's scans from the FSM http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MAF_testing1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MAF_testing2.jpg

I put a HO alternator in my car. The HO alternator does not make as much amperage at lower rpms compared to the stock alternator, so I wanted to eliminate any light dimming issues. I also purchased a smaller diameter alternator pulley to over drive the alternator. When I first purchased the unorthodox underdrive pulley, I didn't have any light dimming issues. However as the alternator aged, I did notice it a little bit.

The ECU is the computer for the car that runs all the engine management. Here's a pic of where it's located (remember it'd be on the opposite side since you have a RHD car) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg Another scan http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location05.jpg Instructions to reset the ECU are on my site under notes & tips, engine related.

When you have the clutch in shouldn't really matter. A vacuum leak shouldn't cause the MAF sensor code. If it's still showing up, you probably have a problem with it.

10 bucks says your problem is the starter solenoid contacts, and that the gear selector jiggling is purely coincidence. Check out this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2447&page=9&pp=10&highlight=secret%2A+start%2A It's a little on the long side, since I didn't suspect the solenoid contacts at first. You can buy the contacts here http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#OnlineOrdering You want to order 2 of the Type A smaller contacts. Here's some pics of the contacts and solenoid on the starter http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legswap/12

I've since replaced the underdriven one with a stock sized one. It's an N1 pulley http://www.imprezars.com/pulleys.htm#pulley