Legacy777

I'd take it to another dealer. That doesn't sound right. What happens when you put it on recirc?

I was talking about the shims on the bearing housing. Where are the shims inside the differential?

Just pull it off. It should come off.

that's from my 90 legacy ej22. The newer DOHC engines are not the same. I'm not sure if the SOHC 2.5's are the same or not.

You'll have to remove the rear extension housing on the transmisson. It can be done with it still in the car. The plates and everything associated with the rear power transfer should be checked or replaced. Here's some blow up diagrams that should give you an idea of things. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg

If you haven't overfilled it, you shouldn't have caused a leak by doing what you did. Just an FYI. To properly check the fluid level, the trans needs to be brought up to normal operating temp. Park the car on a level surface, slowly move the gear selector from Park to 1, and then back to Park. Leave the car running, and then check the fluid level of the transmission.

Just for your viewing pleasure. Here's pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt Also....as for a manual...this will probably be helpful http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/

Instructions to pull the trans codes are on my site under the notes & tips section, trans related. TCU can be seen in this pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg Did they tow the car with all four wheels off the ground? If not, the transmission probably got toasted. The AT inhibitor is in the transmission itself.

Sounds like there's an issue with the cruise computer. There's no way to really know without checking the computer for codes. Try autozone or a similar autoparts store. They should be able to read the computer codes for free.

I believe if you set the gear backlash with the proper amount of shims, you should be ok. However since the case will change, the previous shim amount from the old case, and the new case may not be correct.

Skip, I've been out of town the latter part of the week for work, and haven't had a chance to look at things. Can you shoot me a PM or email, that way I have a reminder. I'll try to get to it this weekend after I get back in town.

that's true.....I'll have to look at the wiring diagrams.

I don't think there's an easy way to do what you want. There were no models that had a separate AC button like the newer models.

The first gen legacies run pretty clean. You shouldn't have any problems passing. I've heard of guys passing without a cat on.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/Technicians_Reference_Booklets/Boxer_Engine_Series_Module.pdf

I just don't know if it's worth tearing it completely apart. I know other people that have, and everything is fine. So I'm leaning towards just pulling the pistons, and giving it a good cleaning. It's got 126k miles on it.

Added pics from taking the heads off. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. It's filthy and needs to be cleaned. I'm not sure if putting it in the parts washer is a good thing to do or not. I'd like to replace the piston rings...even if I don't tear the block halves apart. I need to figure out what I'm going to do.....make some calls, check costs and such. I wash my hands and take a bunch of pictures

I'd like it. I can host too. I'll shoot you a pm with my email addy.

You should really just replace it. It's a wear item, and even though it may "test" ok, it may not act properly when in the engine. It's not that expensive.

goin to move this to the old gen side. You should get more response over there.

No they are tied together. It get's a little complicated to explain, but I'll do my best. The big thing most people don't see is that the drive pinion shaft runs through the center of the driven shaft. They both are splined and input into the center diff. Rather then me try to explain this in a million words. Check out these scans Drive pinion & driven shaft. You can see that one goes inside the other http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_AWD_drive_pinion_assy.jpg Description of the center diff & awd system http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff3.jpg

On the MT's. Power is transferred to the driven shaft, which then transfer power to the center diff where it's then transferred to the drive pinion shaft for the front and transfer drive gear for the rear. So yeah, it drives both front and rear. Here's a scan that might help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWDMT_description.jpg

I finally got around to tearing into the ej22t motor I picked up a few months ago. It's an oil piggy. I got it taken apart down to the long block. I should have the heads off tomorrow. Here's pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/2

Unfortunately we didn't get that model in the states, or were even able to get it.....so I don't know how much info you'll find. There are a few people from new zealand that are on the board I believe. They may be able to chime in.

Have you done any work on the oil pump? It's possible that the o-ring that seals between the block and engine is worn, or that the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump have come loose. This would cause it longer for the oil pressure to build up.