Legacy777

Apparently from what Craig said, Subaru did make a kit to add cruise. I couldn't tell you whether the same kit is available in Holland, but it'd be worth asking your local subaru dealer if something similar is still available for your car.

The RS may have a hydraulic clutch setup, but the clutch design is the same. Any push type clutch setup can be interchanged between cable & hydraulic.

Check for engine codes, as well as running the active diagnostic.....see if you get any response from the ECU. Whether the CEL blinks should give you indication whether the ECU is still functioning the procedure to get codes is on my site under the notes & tips section.

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap http://legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm Granted they're not a 96 OBS, but that should give you an idea of the amount of work.

the n/a tranny isn't all that weak. The clutch design is the big issue in my mind that's far superior on the turbo models. Read my write-up on my swap. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap as well as dave's www.legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm It's not super difficult, but can get rather involved.

Are you looking to fix the stock one, or you want to install one since yours does not have it? I don't know if subuaru makes a kit to install cruise or not. If they don't, it'd be rather difficult in my mind to try and piece all the individual parts and electrical stuff together to make the stock cruise work.

You can pull the ECU fuse for 30 min or so, and that should reset the ECU, effectively clearing the code. The light will go off by itself usually, but the code should not disappear from the memory without it being manually cleared or a loss of power.

Big thing is the final drive ratio. You should be able to use a tranny from other RS's and older legacies....assuming the 99 RS has 4.111 final drive ratio. Without opening the case, it's hard to say what exactly broke, and if it caused other problems.

Sedan or wagon? Sedan is 4.111 Wagon is 3.900

Lockup does not occur under full throttle acceleration. So I wouldn't worry about that causing the bogging. Does the bogging occur in 1st gear at all? Where in the RPM range does the bogging occur in 2nd gear, and at what speed? Is it the same all the time?

The 90-91 ECU's are different from the 92-94's. There are some injector differences between the 90-91's and the 92-94's which can cause some ill affects. I experienced this first hand when I swapped 92-94's injectors in my 90 legacy. I've since put in a 92 ECU. One thing that was different was the MT/AT identifier pin. I'd personally try and find an ECU for your specific model year grouping.

The bearing may be going, but I'd just drive it until it dies. You'd be better off just buying a used compressor or rebuilt one.

Wait.....so you only used a hand vacuum pump to evacuate the system? If so, that's not going to work. You need to pull a pretty strong vacuum and keep it there for a certain amount of time to boil off any moisture. A hand vacuum pump won't do that. So you may still a little bit of air in the system, and probably moisture.

How big are the pictures? If they're not too big, you can attach them to the post.

Oh yeah? I'll take a look at the parts list I have and see what bumpers run. Just curious, how does the molding attach to the car?

If you leave it off, and want to get rid of it.....let me know.

If you have everything there, and don't run into any major issues, you should be able to do it in a day....albeit a long day. It definitely helps a lot to have an extra set of hands to help steady the tank as you drop it. Easiest thing to do is drop it a little bit, so you can loosen the lines going to the engine from the tank. Make sure you label which line goes where. Do the same when removing the filler neck and vent lines. There are two bolts on either side of the tank to drain it.

the green connector is the active diagnostic connector it should NOT be normally plugged in. It should ONLY be plugged in when you are trying to diagnosis a problem. Unplug the green T connector.

The additive package I'm sure is different. You could tell just pouring the two that the NEO was thinner then the Swepco....who knows

I've got 80w90 swepco in mine now. Worked better then the 75w90 Neo Synthetic. I think the older boxes like the thicker oil....or at least mine does. It's still not perfect....but better.

Here's info on the coil pack testing http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coilpacktest.jpg The numbers you have look reasonable. Have you checked the ignitor, cam, & crank sensors?

220 (ps) @ 6400 rpm 27.5 (kgf*m) @ 4000 rpm You'll need to do the conversion. There's a HP/Torque curve in this tech article on my site towards the end. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/SAE_boxer.pdf

My 1990 legacy

Where you still moving pretty fast in reverse when you put it into drive? It's possible the TCU is freaking out. You could try resetting it by pulling the EGI/TCU fuse for 20 minutes. Other possibility is one of the accumulators got stuck or something broke.

It'd help if you post a little more information.....the model, year, any other specific items related to maintenance, etc.