Legacy777

Just to add, here's pics from my timing belt job. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt That should give you an idea of what needs to be removed. Also, if you have a visible leak, it's probably the sealent between the pump and block. The ultra grey silicone is the correct silicone to use.

I believe cobb tuning www.cobbtuning.com might have something, the access port.

They are supposed to be UNPLUGGED.

The late 90's 2.5 GT's did have some issues with head gasket failures. However it's really quite random. Some people have had no problems, while others have had. You may want to check out the legacy forum on nasioc too http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

I've run both the subaru sti short shifter, and the kartboy. I liked the feel of the kartboy unit better. the kartboy short shifter however has a lower height then the stock shifter and sti short shifter. There are other short shifters as well, like the cobb double adjustable one, and a few others. I have however since gone back to a stock wrx shift linkage/lever setup with kartboy front and rear bushings. The bushings alone make a HUGE difference in how the lever feels. My suggestion would be to get the bushings first, and see how you like the feel. If you still want more of a shorter throw, get one of the short throw shifters, and still use the kartboy bushings. Here's some pics of the shifter linkage and kartboy bushings http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/kartboybushings/

The thing about it is, unless they know exactly where the leak is coming from, ie low pressure or high pressure side of the oil pump, you really can't say whether it's a big deal to leave the leak go. If it's on the low pressure side of the pump, yeah it's probably not too bad. However if the o-ring that seals the high pressure side of the pump to the block is worn, and you're getting high pressure oil mixing with the low pressure, and then leaking, you would want to fix that sooner then later. The reason the labor is so expensive, is because they essentially have to remove the timing belt and all that stuff. Here's some pics of my timing belt/oil pump job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

Is the hardline rusted out? Or is it the rubber lines that are rotted? You could probably get the metal lines from another car at a junkyard pretty cheap, but unless you do the labor yourself, it's going to still be a bit of money.

I'd recommend also asking your question in the legacy forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums as well as the legacygt forums www.legacygt.com/forums .

Sounds like a vacuum leak, and more then likely would be intake gasket. Pull the plugs, and see if you have one plug that looks different from the others. If so, then the leak is more then likely at that cylinder. With the engine running, try spraying starter fluid around the intake gasket at that cylinder and see if rpms rise. If they do, you confirmed your problem.

My problem was very intermittent, and most of the time I would not get a cel or any codes stored. I battled the problem for over a year. It finally left a code, which confirmed my suspicion about the MAF sensor. What did you clean the MAF with?

Yeah, the engines will bolt in, however it probably won't be a plug and play type thing with the electrical.

Your car will not run correctly with the signal from the VSS not going to the ECU. Replace that first, reset ECU, and then see if the problem persists.

Gillman south is on 59s. CV axles really aren't too bad to change, with air tools and everything going well, you can get them done in an hour or so. www.cvaxles.com is a good place to get axles. However a local parts store might be just as easy. I really don't know about the clutch, I'd have to see it/drive it to try and diagnose further. Shoot me a pm, and we can discuss when's a good time to try and meet up.

I had similar issues with my legacy where it would just stall/lose power. It ended up being the MAF sensor. I didn't ask, but have you done any intake modifications?

Russ, Where in Houston are you? I'm in the galleria area, if you wanted we could try and meet up, and I can take a look at it. How does the clutch feel when the grinding happens? It sounds like the clutch just isn't engaging enough to get into gear. The way the clutch fork is designed, it's held in place by clips, and over time these clips can come undone, and the clutch fork is not capable of applying enough stroke to fully engage the clutch. BTW....which subaru dealer did you talk to......they're all pretty lousy in Houston IMO.

If you can physically reach the switch, you "should" be able to replace it without taking the tranny out or draining the fluid.I'd just get under the car, take a look and see how much room you have between the trans and chassis.

No idea.....it shouldn't do that.

Welcome. You're in the right forum for the new gen cars. The only thing is, we didn't get that car here in the US, so I'm not sure how much knowledge people have of it here in the states. Hopefully someone will chime in with some help.

If you don't find an answer here, I believe this question has been asked over in the subaru conversions forum on nasioc.

yup, those pipes are completely sealed off from the main radiator.

So basically pressing on the gas pedal doesn't do anything to affect engine rpm... Well I would probably start by monitoring the vehicle speed sensor 2. See if the signal cuts out as to cause the loss of signal issue.

The grease in the cable housing is probably gumming up. You could try removing the cable from the housing and cleaning it. However without cleaning the housing, it may just be a temporary fix.

If you have a manual tranny, just leave the pipes open. It won't hurt anything. If you really want to, you can get some rubber caps to put over the pipes, but you don't need to. I put some caps over them when I did my MT swap. The caps stayed on there for a couple weeks....but came off.....no biggy. Also, the crack you mentioned. It's actually a pretty common failure point for these radiators, and pretty much in that exact same spot.

here's a diagram with where the switch is located. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location07.jpg pic http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/14/DCP_3338.JPG

Any legacy rack should work.