Steve B

Body excellent. 137,000 mi, manual Trans. Owner knows nothing about the car. Drives well, shifts well. Little but of a whine. 4WD button broken in shifter. Main Problem: High, rough idle. He wants $800. I offered $300 due to uncertainty of the cars ability to pass smog. It certainly won't with a rough, 1,500 rpm idle. Is there a common cause for the Turbo cars to do this?

My '87 SPFI has a wonderful (&*%$# !) new symptom. Unpredictably, the idle will get super lumpy and fluctuate between 100 and 1,200 rpm, but ususally on the very slow side. When it evens out, and it does this without notice, what sounds like additional air is being adnmitted. to the intake or throttle body. When this air sound cuts out again, so does the idle and we are back to the slow lumpy stuff. This cycle repeats itself in no set pattern. Is it the idle air control solenoid? Something that controls the solenoid? Need some help here to stabalize the idle- smog test due at the end of te month!

I love my trusty '87 GL with twin stick. Still runs pretty well, but it does have some minor TPS problems, and I think the idle air solenoid act up sometimes, but after 300,000 miles it still gets 25+ mpg and burns only about a quart of oil every 1,500 miles. Not bad considering, and the body and drive train are in good shape over all. Every two years in California we have a smog test, and I just squeaked by last time. I'll change the plugs, set the timing to 20 BTDC and get it good and warmed up beforehand. Any other tips? This is our #2 car, but we drive it as often as our '06 Outback. I really don't want to retire it yet. Thanks

I could use the EGR solenoid, purge control solenoid AND the air control valve solenoid for my '87 GL wagon 5-speed with SPFI. Actually, I'd be interested in the whole dang SPFI throttle body and its peripherals.

I think the TPS is getting lazy in its old age on my SPFI '87 GL. Can it be cleaned or replaced? Where is it? Symptoms include low idle upon first start of the day then within 15 seconds, rpms will slowly increase to its regular 1500. Also when running the AC , the motor will usually die or idle at about 300 rpm when comming to a stop. Otherwise engine runs great @25 mppg.

Well I took it in to the dealer and he tested the temp at the vent at 45 degrees. He evacuated the system and recharged it and tested again. Still 45 degrees. I personally feel that on a long trip the system will be ok, it's just that on a hot day it's incapable of cooling the car down on a short trip. It seems to be related to how long the compressor stays engaged. Sems to be as designed? I'd be interested in hearing from other 2005/2006 Outback owners.

I have only 225 miles on my 2006 2.5i 5-speed Outback and really love the car. It does have a quirk that I wondered if anyone else has noticed. The AC blows plenty cold when the compressor is engaged, but I get the feeling it cycles on and off too frequently resulting in air that is just starting to get cold.... then the compressor kicks out for a few seconds and things warm up again until the cycle repeats. The air never really gets cold enough to cool the car on a hot day. I have tried all the settings and it behaves the same. Anybody else notice this? Is this adjustable by the dealer? Otrherwise I love the car.

Just bought a '06 Outback to replace the trusty (307,000 miles) '87 Gl Wagon with the dual range tranny. So now my wife and kids have a nice safe car and I have the beater that has been drinking coolant at a rate of about a pint per day. I can get by with it for now, and was planning on doing the long overdue timing belts and now I guess head gaskets/heads. The engine only uses a quart of 15w40 per 1,500 miles so it's basically sound enough. On the other hand, what if I go to a later motor? So here are my questions: What later engines fit to the dual range trans? Will I have to exchange the wiring harness? Is that prcatical? I live in California. What are the emissions testing implications? Would I be better off with a low miles E81 (stock) motor? Any input appreciated- Steve

I guess head gasket trouble seems common to the 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines. My old 1.8 liter engine went over 200,000 before I had a blown head gasket that I "repaired" with a block sealer product. I wonder if the 2005/2006 engines have had this trouble surface yet?

Is anyone brave enough to list the various Subaru engine desginations? All I know is there was an early 1600 pushrod motor, then an 1.8 liter belt driven sohc engibne like the one in my trusty '87. I know there was a 2.2 liter engine too. Now I have the 2006 2.5 liter motor in a new Outback. Is that the EJ22 engine? Anybody know this stuff? Any notorious bad stuff to look out for for the 2.5?

I did a little research on filter interchange. The WIX 51365 is the stock, small filter. The WIX 51356 has all the same dimensions and internals as the small version, the only difference being that it's longer by about and inch, so I'll be using the bigger filter. Now regarding the variable timing, I agree on the first year thing, although I think the Subaru people are pretty damn good engineers, which counts for something.. I have been looking for a solid description on how this system works, and have heard everything from Dudes version to a special intake lifter design that changes with increased oil pressure giving more lift at higher rpm. I purchased the 7 year/100,000 warranty because iof the new variable valve technology and because of all the electronics in new cars. I figure if the engine can hang together mechanically for 100,000 miles it will likely go more.

I have 97 miles on my '06 Outback 2.5 non turbo model. I put 307,000 miles (still going) on my '87 GL with twin stick tranny. I'll grit my teeth and go 3,000 miles to the ffirst oil change on the new car, then use 0W-30 Castrol synthetic. What oil filters are you guys using? The stock filter looks pretty small!

The trusty old twin stick '87 GL Wagon is due for retirement (over 300,000 miles). I'd like to go with a 2002, 2003 or 2004 Outback (don't care for the Forester). My question to you guys is is there a significant difference or advantage from one year to another? For example, '87 was the only year for the single point fuel injection. Had I known about the inherent drivability problems that came with the SPFI, I would have gone for an '88 instead with the multi-point FI. I love the twin stick, and it has been great when using the car as a jeep, but alas I Know the newer models are more civilized, and the kids are getting bigger etc.. So here are some questions: Any significant differences btween the 2002 2003 and 2004 models? Manual or auto trans better? Options to look for? Options to stay away from? Weak points? Thanks guys, (and by the way) I plan on keeping the old horse for the jeep work. Steve

Are these pieces available? Car is a 1987 GL Wagon.

How are you guys applying vacuum to the system? And from where?