Legacy777

Just an fyi. There isn't a separate amp, it's just what's in the head unit. Also, 80w x 4 or 20w per channel is a max reading. Normal rms is around 7w or so. A better deck will have higher rms output then the factory deck.

for further reference http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

Pull the codes from the ECU. Instructions are on my site. More then likely you'll find the code is the vehicle speed sensor 2. It's located in the combination meter (dash), so you'd pretty much have to replace the whole gauge cluster if the speed sensor is bad.

I don't even know if you can buy a boot. If it's been exposed to the elements, you really need to replace the tie rod.

What exactly do you want to do? Does the overseas foresters come with a dual range 4WD transmission? Is that what you're talking about by changing the low range?

yeah i think the center diff is the same.

Might just have been a hiccup in the fuel injection system. I'd just watch it, and see if it happens again.

The yellow one is typically the atf dipstick. My 90 FWD auto had a black handled dipstick for the differential. It's possible in 92 they changed the coloring and stuff.

Chris, There is a parts book that subaru uses. I picked up an old one on ebay a couple years ago. It's very handy, however I don't know of any manuals on cd. What parts are you wondering about interchangability?

It really depends on your locale. Down here, you wouldn't get more then $2000 for it. Up in your neck of the woods, probably $3000 or tad more....again, this depends on the condition, and locale.

Since replacing the coolant temp sensor.....have you had the other two codes come back? It's possible they could have been erroneous codes caused by the engine running lean/rich.

I'd highly recommend just replacing the suspension. You're not going to get a huge jump in height or anything....it's far from being an "off-road" type air suspension that you can get more height. If you really want more height, get a set of outback struts and springs, and install them. If you want to spend any money on trying to fix the system. Have the shop run the diag. procedure for the air suspension. Here's what they need to do, and the codes. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AirSuspension_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AirSuspension_diag2.jpg If they find something simple, fix it......if it's going to be several thousand dollars to fix....just swap to a conventional suspension.

Your subaru dealer, or any subaru dealer should be able to get rebuild kits.

There's six screws. Did you get all six? If you did, just work at it a little more, it'll come off.

Go to my site, notes & tips, engine related, and pull the ECU codes. If the cel comes on, a code will be stored, and you can read it yourself.

Have you pulled the engine codes to see what is causing the check engine light?

The brakes were more then likely not bed in properly. What happens is pad material is unevenly distributed on the rotor, and when you heat up the brakes good, the coefficient of friction is different between the pad material on the rotor and the rotor itself, so you get the shudder you're experiencing. I'm assuming your GT doesn't have too many miles on it, so I doubt it's a "warped" rotor. To properly bed brake pads, you need to do about 10 consecutive 60-10 mph stops by applying firm/medium brake pressure. You don't want to jam on the brakes, but you don't want to do light stops either. Drive around for 15 minutes to let the brakes cool, (during this time, try not to leave the brakes applied for an extended period of time, like at a traffic light. This is a contributor to uneven brake pad deposits.). After that 15 minutes of cool down, repeat the 10 consecutive stops, and cool down.

it's gotta be something related to the drivetrain. You could try putting the car on jacks and rotating the wheels by hand to see if you can hear anything weird.

www.seafoamsales.com

If you're looking for just a direct swap "plug n play" type thing.....the engine should probably be from a 90-94 legacy. Depending on MT or AT, that will have some effect on what is plug n play vs a little swapping of sensors, etc. Tranny...depending on mt/at, will determine what will work, and what won't.

What condition is the muffler/exhaust in? I had a whistle, which I swore was coming from the engine. I was in the car revving, and had someone stand outside to listen where it was coming from, and sure enough it was the muffler.

Hmmm. So it's worse when it's cold? Might be the coolant temp sensor, but the symptoms your experiencing are pretty severe for the coolant temp sensor. It's a $20 item though, so it might be worth the money to eliminate it. Have you tried running d-check mode? It's a more "active" diagnostic method. Instructions are on my site. other possibility is that the ECU is not working properly.

you can try these guys http://www.4subarusuzukikiaparts.com/ http://www.superrupair.com/

What year & model subie do you have?

personally....I wouldn't pay for the part unless they gave me the old one back. Did you tell them you wanted the part back before they worked on it?