Legacy777

Read my write-up. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap I just did a 5spd & AWD conversion this past summer.

Tirerack.com has the best price on the KYB stuff. I think they're around 50-60 a strut for the GR2's.....somewhere in that ballpark.

Simple answer is.....you can't. In 96 subaru introduced the phase 2 4eat tranny. It added a few more features, sensors, and other gadgetry. The connector plugs changed as well. So despite the fact it will physically bolt up, you'll run into issues with the connectors. I suppose if you were really ambitious you could rewire the connector and match as many of pin outs as you can with the old setup. It would "probably" work ok.....however this a completely wild rump roast guess.

You may want to check out the texas regional forums on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums there's a lot of impreza guys in the dallas area, and they should be able to give you some ideas.

http://techinfo.subaru.com is about the only place you'll find OEM manuals. They may pop up on ebay, so it might be worth keeping your eye open. Other option is a service like www.alldata.com

Your best option is to replace the air suspension with a conventional strut/spring suspension. What I'd suggest is going to a junkyard and finding a complete spring/strut & strut top for each wheel. But a set of KYB Gr2 struts, to replace the old struts, and call it done. You can then remove the air compressor & air tank as well as all the rest of the air suspension components.

Is the check engine light on? Have you pulled codes from the ECU, to see if there is any there? I have instructions on how to pull the codes and what they are on my site. So does it seem to act up when going up hill, and then run ok when at elevation, or does it continually run worse when elevation increases. Also, what kind of elevation are we talking....500ft or 1000-2000 or more.

I wonder if it's your ball joint. There's nothing that needs greasing in the front end. I'd suggest jacking the car up, and try moving spindle around, and see if there is play in the ball joint, and tie rod ends.

If you did pick up the car, you may want to check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org there's a lot of good info about the turbo legacies.

Does it seem to come from a particular area of the engine, or component?

If you look straight down, just to the right (driver's side) of the throttle body, you'll see it. It's the black round thing with the bolt in the middle, and the wire coming out with the white connector http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

just fyi, the crank sensor is located just above the oil pump, behind the crank pulley. You can see it in the top portion of this pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2703.JPG

Hey, How's it going. My springs are whiteline control lowering springs. I got them from teague's auto www.boxer4racing.com I ended up waiting quite a bit for them. Hopefully, MRT, whiteline's distributor out of Australia has gotten better. You may want to give Dale a call at Teague's auto and see if he can still get them, and waiting time. Wow, that's a pretty good jump from Houston to Alaska. I actually grew up most my life in Seattle, moved to Pennsylvania to go to college, moved to memphis for work, and now here in Houston. I live around the galleria area right now. So how do you like Alaska?

It's possible the two things are related, speedo and not going into D. Have you checked the AT fluid level, or checked the fluid's color, or whether it smells burnt? I'd start there....it wouldn't explain the speedo...but I'd check that first.

There's really not a way to test it unless you took the rear part of the tranny apart. Are you thinking you're not getting power distributed evenly between the front and rear? If it's snowy up there, have someone stand outside the car, and you peel out in the snow and see if both the front and rear spin. Just a side note, you'll probably want someone on both sides, or have that one person watch both sides, because opposite sides may spin.

It came from lowering more then likely. I was going to install camber bolts in the rear when I first lowered it, but I really didn't need to. The guy at the alignment place, loosened the strut bolts, wiggled it around to where I wanted, and then tightened them back down. Right now, I have the whiteline adjustable lateral links, so I pretty much have an infinite amount of camber/toe settings for the rear.

I run pretty much -1.0 degree of camber all the way around, and it does make a huge difference in how the car handles. Your tire wear shouldn't really be affected. I've been running those settings for a couple years now, and haven't had any problems. I do tend to rotate my tires about every 3000 miles though. It helps prolong tread wear.

where are you seeing AWP?

the fuel pump connector is under the rear seat. If you disconnect it, and then start/crank the motor, it will help eliminate pressure.

here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG more pics of stuff here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

What size engine do you have? If it's a 2.5 liter, yes it's an interference engine.

normally.....drive belts typically refer to the alternator/ps belt & a/c belt. Those belts are different then the timing belt.

The fuel filter is in your engine bay, right next to the driver's strut tower.

The racks are not interchangable

On the OBD1 cars, there's only one signal between the ECU & TCU, and that's the engine tach output. All the rest of the inputs, like tps, etc, just share the same sensors and such. The main deal, there's a lot of wiring to deal with.