Legacy777

you don't reset the maf sensor, you reset the ecu.

If you want a hard copy, you'll probably have to check ebay.

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap to be quite honest, on that new of a car, I'd just find one that's a manual transmission. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches and time. The newer (OBD2) cars bring a lot more wiring into the equation, which can present more problems to overcome.

I've tried it and it does work. Shoot me a pm with your #, and I can try and get some time this weekend.

Go to my site and read the instructions on how to pull the transmission trouble codes www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Once you find out which codes are in the computer, post back.

It's the starter solenoid contacts http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2447

It's probably the starter solenoid contacts. Check the battery connections and everything to make sure they're good first.

cool.....

It's probably the alternator

a non-subaru setup....custom job

Welcome CoryI think it wouldn't be too bad to wire up properly....but you have some sort of non-standard setup right?

The benefit of running the ECU's neutral signal to the transmission neutral switch is that the ECU will get an accurate reading of when the transmission is in neutral. The switch on the clutch is meant to be used as the starter interupt, not the neutral switch. It sounds like you wired both the neutral switch and the clutch interlock system up to the switch on the clutch, and wired the cruise to the other switch on the clutch. The reality of it is that the car will probably run fine with the setup you have now. There may be some minor weirdoties....but it should run fine. Does everything run fine now?

I really couldn't give you specifics as I don't know, but probably the upper end of the engine, intake, etc will be slightly different, and ECU will have different maps and such. You might want to try nasioc, some of those guys might know.

You can see the screw I'm talking about in these pics. it's right where the radiator hose goes into the radiator http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/headlight/DCP_2141.JPG this one's a little blury http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/headlight/DCP_2142.JPG

There should/might be a little burp screw on the passenger side (Left Hand Drive models) of the radiator. You need to remove this screw to properly burp/bleed the cooling system. You could try this yourself. Unscrew the screw, open the rad cap, top the radiator off, leave the cap & screw off, and start the car. Let the car warm up. Turn the heater on full hot. Add coolant as the level goes down. As the coolant level starts to go up and down, and no more bubbles come out, put the screw back on, the cap as well. Rev the engine, drive it around to see if you hear the noise. Stop, let the car cool, and check the cooling system level again.

There's some with 200-300k miles on them. I've got aprox 180+k miles on my 90 legacy, and then engine has had no real issues to speak of.

The new legacy turbo is going to be a lot more refined then the impreza, and have a lot of stuff that the impreza doesn't have. The AWD for the MT is the same viscous coupling as in all the MT AWD systems. The turbo engine in the turbo legacy is essentially the one from the sti, and I haven't heard of any issues with it.

I'd suggest pulling the ECU & TCU codes yourself. Instructions on how to do that is on my site. The only difference that may be there might be that the US got the manual button, while the oversea's models got the econ button. They're function in terms of using them to engage the diagnostic mode is probably the same. You might also want to try your question on http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/

yeah, I'd try the fuse first....takes two seconds to pop one in, and then drive around in a circle or something.

On the older H4's it's on the pass side of the manifold. I would assume it has one. Try following some hoses, and see if it leads you to it. It "should" be going into the intake manifold. You might try going to a parts store, and check the books and see if there is a pcv valve listed for your year. I would assume there is, but never hurts to check.

You need to remove the fuse in the FWD fuse holder to return the car to AWD. The previous owner probably installed it because there was an issue with the car. The fuse holder is near the right front strut tower. Remove the fuse, see how the car drives. I'd also suggest changing the tranny fluid.

I'd also suggest checking the ECU for trouble codes, and you might want to check the air filter, and plugs to see what condition they're in. That might help you identify if the engine is running too rich.

See the little connector and shiny round metal thing pointing towards the back of the cam pulley? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2700.JPG That's the cam sensor here's some more pics from my tbelt change http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt Pull the codes and see what comes up. That should help identify what might be wrong.

Try installing a fuse in the FWD fuse holder in the engine bay, and see if your problem goes away. If it does, you have an issue with the rear extension housing that supplies power to the rear wheels. I'd first suggest replacing the tranny fluid, and see if that helps.

Roy, I'd talk to a good reputable tranny shop. I'd give these guys an email/call http://www.transgo.com/ I know they make a shift kit for the 4EAT. They may also have a rebuild kit, or can tell you who does. I had the transgo shift kit installed on my tranny. it helped the 1st-2nd shift a lot.