Legacy777

These transmissions don't really have an overdrive per-say. 4th gear is really the over-driven gear. As for the shift patterns. The AT's like to shift all the way up to 4th gear, regardless even if you're just doing 25 mph. My AT did that in my car. What you may be feeling is the torque converter locking and unlocking. Either way, I'd say it's fine.

I say it's semi-normal to do it occasionally....not all the time though. Yeah change your tranny fluid. See if you can find trans-tune. It's made by the makers of seafoam. If you have sticking valves, trans tune should help http://seafoamsales.com/products.htm I just lubed my speedo cable with grease.

What you're experiencing is semi-normal. The tranny won't go down into first all the time, especially if you do just a rolling stop. If you come to a complete stop it should kick down into first. I know you said fluid looked fine, but when was the last time you changed it? As for the speedo thing.....the cable just needs to be lubed. You can pull the cable off from the trans connector, then pull the cable itself out, grease it, and throw it back in.

You don't really want to plug the canister directly into the TB. I've done the brake cleaner thing on the IAC valve. I did it a while back when I had taken everything off. It did seem to help. Might want to give it a shot and see. However if the code is being displayed for the IAC valve, more then likely there's some sort of electrical issue with it, and cleaning prob. won't do anything.

you might want to try scoobymods.com They may have timing belt scans that show what to do with the DOHC setup, or search. I think it's been covered. Yes there should be a clamp on the radiator hose.

Reason I mentioned the MAF is because my car had a similar issue which was caused by the MAF sensor. However it was intermittant and plagued me for about a year or so before I got good confirmation on a code after a more serious stumbling/stalling. You could try gently/lightly spraying brake cleaner into the sensor area by holding the can back a bit. There may be some gunk built up in there. Yeah they aren't cheap. You might want to try a used one if you suspect it to be the culprit. How often/frequent is this happening?

Sure it will, if the electrical portion is hosed and not giving the right feedback. If you have a wire toast the TCU should find that as well. If there is a mechanical issue it won't throw a code, but I'm not quite sure what mechanically would go wrong.

You might want to talk to shawn or one of those guys about putting something in the USRM.

I really don't know if I could fly down there and do that.....it'd depend on a lot of things, when, how long, etc, etc.

The idle air control valves were different on the US 1990-1991 MT n/a cars. They use an oscilating valve vs. a rotating valve. So you could use a valve from a US 1990-1991 AT n/a car and one from a US 1992-1994 MT & AT n/a car. The turbo valve may be the same with an addition of a check valve type thing, but I haven't dealt with them much.

To be quite honest I'm not sure, since I haven't dealt with that style clutch much, other then just taking my donor car apart. I don't recall how the TO bearing was on there, or if it's realistic that you could put it on backwards. I'd have to look at my parts book

There was no 89 model year in the US....so any legacy made in 89 that was sold in the US was still a 1990 model year, regardless of the cutoff date.

Your ISP is probably going through a proxy server and may not let port 8080 go through. try this https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2488.JPG

You mean this thing? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2488.JPG It's just a cover....nothing to worry about.

It's probably the throwout bearing, and/or the clips that hold it on.

No, the 1990 legacy, 2.2 engine was brand new and for the most part was considered the first of the "new gen subarus" Can you take a pic of the piece in question? Or possibly look through some of these pictures I took of my injector work and identify it http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

First I'd burp the radiator. If that doesn't help, flush it, and see if the coolant coming out is all nasty and sludgy. As for replacing the water pump. You'll have to take the timing belt off to do the water pump. So you might as well replace the belt if you plan to do the pump.

No, only turbo trannies utilize the pull type clutch setup. The n/a trannies still utilize the hyd. push type clutch setup.

it was probably manufactured in 89, but it's a 1990 model year.

clear the codes, drive the car, and if the CEL comes back on, check codes again to verify the previous codes, or rule out the false ones.

What clutch/pressure plate do you have in it? The newer/beefier RS clutches & PP's do fit in the n/a legacy trannies. They will probably have a stiffer pressure plate. The PP was designed to be disengaged with a hydraulic unit rather then cable. So that may be some reasons. Regardless, Subaru's have one of the higher effort clutches I've driven.....I can't say I'm a huge fan for it though.

The AT oil lamp will flash a default 16 times, or one long, and six fast flashes. You have to get into the diag mode to actually read the codes.

What are you needing? The whole long engine numbers, or just the part where it says EJ22? The part where it says EJ22 is right below to the left of the alternator. Look to the left of the alternator, and then look down at the block. here's info on the long numbers http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ID_%26_Number_Loc1.jpg

So with the fuse inserted you don't get the FWD light displaying? It sounds like the wiring is messed up possibly. I'd check to make sure you have 12v at one side of the fuse holder. If you do, then the problem is probably in the wiring going from the fuse holder to the duty c solenoid. Actually that would make sense since replacing clutches, fluid doesn't help, and the problem sort of goes away when warmed up. It could be a short, or a failing wire.

drop the tranny. It'll be easier IMO. It's pretty straight forward. You'll need to make sure you have a clutch alignment tool. I'd replace the throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and pressure plate if you hadn't already planned to.