Legacy777

The AT oil lamp will flash a default 16 times, or one long, and six fast flashes. You have to get into the diag mode to actually read the codes.

What are you needing? The whole long engine numbers, or just the part where it says EJ22? The part where it says EJ22 is right below to the left of the alternator. Look to the left of the alternator, and then look down at the block. here's info on the long numbers http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ID_%26_Number_Loc1.jpg

So with the fuse inserted you don't get the FWD light displaying? It sounds like the wiring is messed up possibly. I'd check to make sure you have 12v at one side of the fuse holder. If you do, then the problem is probably in the wiring going from the fuse holder to the duty c solenoid. Actually that would make sense since replacing clutches, fluid doesn't help, and the problem sort of goes away when warmed up. It could be a short, or a failing wire.

drop the tranny. It'll be easier IMO. It's pretty straight forward. You'll need to make sure you have a clutch alignment tool. I'd replace the throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and pressure plate if you hadn't already planned to.

Driveshaft is different between MT & AT. holes will be all there for the pedals. If you want to do hydraulic you will have to drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. It will be more difficult with the hyd setup since it was not available in 1990. Flywheel should just come off once you get the bolts off. Did you not look at my site? There's shiat loads of pics on there.

you read my write-up? http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html

The difference is in the length of the strut body. As mentioned the FWD does not have an axle going through the center and the lower strut mount point is lower then the AWD mount point.

If you want a bigger TB....bore it.....the newer ones aren't any bigger and won't work with your car. However I wouldn't bother boring it.....it's one of the last bottlenecks.

nope.....the fsm gives the order I listed above. I've done both ways, and if you're just bleeding old fluid out, it really shouldn't matter. However if you have stubborn/trapped air in the system, it does matter, and following the procedure in the FSM seems to work the best, or at least it did for me. Plus the brake system is a dual circuit, so you have to do opposing corners back to back.

Actually, since the fluid absorbs the water and it's suspended in the fluid....it's not really a problem. The added water just lowers the boiling point of the fluid. However, if you boil the brake fluid, the water will then turn into steam, and you now have air & water in the brake system....that is not good. Dot 5 fluid doesn't absorb water, so pockets of water can move/sit in the brake lines and cause rust like you mentioned.

3, 4, & 5.1 are all compatible and interchangeable. The main difference between the 3 are the wet & dry boiling points & the hygroscopic nature. Check out this page, it seems to have good info http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-fluids.html However, I thought Dot 5.1 was more hygroscopic then 4 & 3. Either way, a good dot 4 or 5.1 fluid will work fine. If you're not racing, it doesn't matter.

There is a fuse you can pull to disable the ABS system. It should be under the dash. If she has the owner's manual, have her look in the back portion where it lists all the fuses. There should be one listed for abs. As for the behavior.....honestly....sounds normal. ABS in snow & ice isn't that effective. The suggestions given above on what you can do, press harder, or lift & reapply are good suggestions.

I don't know the entire capacity, but if you get a 1 qt bottle, you'll have more then enough to flush the old fluid out with the new stuff. To bleed the brakes you bleed in the following order RF, LR, LF, RR I've never bled abs equiped cars, but there is a bleeder valve on the abs unit, and I would assume you bleed it similarly to how you bleed brakes normally. I just don't know if there's a specific sequence.

vacuum serves no function in disconnecting the clutch packs. It's all electrical. Either way, it doesn't make a hill of beans whether the fuse is in, you are never to tow an AT vehicle with the drive wheels on the ground. In the case of an AWD vehicle, all wheels must be off the ground.

Have you compared the ECU I/O's between the 2002 & 2004 to see if there's any differences? If not, yeah, I'd start with fuel and spark and work from there.

The ATF lines going into the radiator are smaller rubber lines. If you're standing in front of the car, and look on the right end side of the radiator, you should see two little fittings that have lines going to the transmission. If you don't see these fittings, then they either didn't put the atf cooler on your car, or someone swapped in a MT radiator and routed the lines into themself so the fluid would just go back to the tranny. Either way, I still think it would be beneficial to have the tranny cooler. How many miles/km are on the car already? If there's a lot of miles on it already, it may be a mute point to stick a tranny cooler on now if it never had one.

Test the idle switch in the TPS. Follow this procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg Here's the preceeding info, which tells you which pins are which http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg If it's out of spec, adjust it so the readings are in spec, clear the codes, and see if you still get the code.

just call the parts stores and ask them....

Doesn't matter....the info they have is incorrect. There's been several people that have emailed them about the turbo legacy prod. numbers, and they're completely and horribly incorrect.

The info provided by SOA on model #'s and options packs is unreliable for the first gen legacies. Not all dealers entered all the information from the vehicles when they sold them, so SOA is not going to have a clue as to exactly what was sold and what was not. My car is a prime example. The dealer didn't put any of the pertinent info in SOA's computer.

That's a little high I think, depending on the condition. See if he'll negotiate a little. Check KBB and see what these cars are going for in your area. Prices do vary from one geographical region to another.

The AT's on the 90-91's had 4.111 final drive ratio. The AT's on the 92-94's had 3.900 final drive ratio. I'm not sure what the 95's had, but they are the last of the phase 1 4EAT's. The phase 2 4EAT's had a different connector on them, and are not a direct plug and play type thing. I believe I have heard of someone using a 4EAT out of a 97 or 99 legacy in a first gen legacy, however they more then likely rewired the connector.

Do you guys have autozones out there? If so, drop by one of them, or possibly another auto parts store and have them pull the codes for you. As for the neutral switch. You're going to need to wire it up like how I did. The pin out's will probably not be the same, but you should be able to just connect the two pins from the neutral sensor to the wiring on the AT harness. Disconnect the cable from the clutch. Have someone hold the end of the cable, and then you move the clutch pedal by hand and see if it get's harder to move towards the end. I'd need diagrams for the cruise setup, but again, more then likely you'll need to rewire the cruise relay.

Welcome for the pics. However I really don't know why that arrow is there. It's a pretty common mistake to use that arrow instead of the mark on the back of the cam sprocket.

One, the neutral switch is not wired up, so that will contribute to issues. That's about the only thing I saw stand out that would cause issues with running. Again, I'd suggest pulling the codes and seeing what the ECU is seeing.