Legacy777

Is it throwing a check engine light? If not, you can try shooting some brake cleaner down the intake tube of the IAC valve. There's probably some gummed up carbon in there.

email me the pics, I'll host them and post..... jlegacy(at)surrealmirage.com

Yeah....is the check engine light on? If so, go to my site and you'll find instructions on how to pull the codes. You may also want to check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org as well.

You'll never get both valves exactly the same, and because of this, you'd be causing an even more dangerous situation by having different braking forces on each side of the car.

try some of the online subaru parts stores www.subaruparts.com www.allsubaru.com www.1stsubaru.com www.libertysubaru.com for much better pricing on parts then local dealers. Or try and pick one up used.

Yeah, just see about buying a used one from someone parting out a first gen legacy. I know there's one if not more people on the legacycentral board www.bbs.legacycentral.org Unless you want to do some soldering.

when did it start doing this? Did it occur due to any changes or anything like that? You may want to ask your question on the svx network as well www.subaru-svx.net

You've got the "crappier" style IAC valve The instructions in the chiltons is for the rotary one found on the autos. Subyluvr had some issues with his IAC, which is the same style you have. He replaced it and his problems went away. You may want to search through some of the posts on the legacycentral bbs www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Could you provide any other information to help diagnosing? also, you may want to check out the svx network boards www.subaru-svx.net

check the codes and let us know what you find.

if it's an auto.....you'll need to remove the two atf lines going to radiator as well......they can be a little crank some times.

what have you done to test the duty c solenoid?

Yeah that looks like a legacy box. there should be some numbers on the outside of the transmission which should help identify it. That number will be on the top of the bell housing on the left side if you're looking at the back of the transmission.

yeah you can use the line going to the pcv valve. That's the one I would recommend as some of the others won't give an even distribution to all cylinders.

The vapor lines should be ok. 10 bucks says it's the filler neck. They rust out at the bottom because dirt and crap get stuck in there by the plastic cover. Remove the plastic cover that hides the filler neck and lines, and see if you can find a rust spot where it's leaking.

Try reseting the TCU. You can do this by removing the EGI/TCU fuse I believe it's fuse 14 in the fuse panel by the driver's foot well. You may just be ready for a new tranny. 300k+ miles on an auto is pretty damn good IMO.

adj prop. valves will not work on a stock brake system. The stock system uses a dual diagonal brake system. In case one circuit fails, the other is there to stop you. The only way to use an adjustable prop valve is to replumb the brake lines going to the rear to a single circuit.

Do you have ABS or no abs? If you don't have abs, the only upgraded MC you can use is from a 94-96ish FWD SVX w/o abs. If you have ABS you can use a 1 1/16 bore MC from a first gen legacy....in fact I think I have one. For better pedal feel you can upgrade to the single diaphragm brake booster. Why do you want more front bias. The WRX brakes should add HUGE amounts of front bias. You should be able to lock the fronts up at will. If not, I'd say you still have air in the system or possibly some other issues. Yeah I'd look at an rs rack or some newer ones. I know for the early legacies, some guys have gotten racks from the 97 gt's and they fit in, and provide better ratio and feel.

yeah they should be there. and look like these http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

Ok.....got a lot of questions that need answering Since it won't run....here's what I'd do first. Pull one of the timing belt cam covers off. If the belt is not loose and you can't pull it out.....the belt didn't break, and that's "probably" not the cause of it not starting. It could have jumped a tooth, in which case, you'd need to realign everything. If the belt looks good, I would probably start checking a few other things before I tear into the timing belt. Yes you can get at the cam & crank oil seals without pulling the heads. You will need to remove the cam sprockets and crank gear to get at them. They can be a little tempermental to get out however. There is also a cam seal on the back side of the passenger side. It's just an o-ring and easy to change. See....the belt will have marks on it. However the marks on the belt don't necessarily have to line up with the marks on the cam/crank. For subie mechanics that have done this job a lot, they'll just line up the marks, slap a new belt on and be done with it. When I put my new belt on, I lined up the marks on the belt with the marks on the cam/crank. I'm just anal like that The marks don't perfectly line up with the shroud. I alined everything with one side of the engine and put everything back together. It's pretty obvious because the marks are close enough, they're just not dead on. Yes 2718 is the tensioner. There is a spot to put an allen wrench or some other metal object to hold the tensioner. You basically re-install the tensioner, use a big screwdriver to press it as close to the tensioner pulley as you can, and then tighten the bolts. Once everything is tight, remove the allen wrench. It's covered in the fsm scans I posted. I highly suggest you print them out and read over them. You don't need to remove the sprockets unless you're doing the oil seals. As I mentioned above, the marks on the timing belt and the marks on the crank/cam sprockets were not lined up. So that is why things look differently between the before and after pics. That arrow thing is actually on the crank gear, and is commonly mistaken as the alignment mark. It is NOT the alignment mark. The mark is on the back side of the gear. If this guy has the money, I'd suggest replacing the cam/crank seals, and the oil pump o-ring. There is an o-ring that seals the oil pump and block. Also, sometimes the backing plate screws can come loose, so you can check those when you have the pump off. You will need to reseal it with permatex ultra gray sealant. The oil pump is right behind of the crank gear. here's a picture of the hole without the pump on http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2710.JPG picture of the back side of the pump http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2720.JPG picture of the pump re-installed http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2721.JPG There is a trick with the oil seals. If you decide to do the oil pump stuff, you can just knock out the crank seal. The cam seals can be a little more of a pain. You will also need a strap wrench to hold the cam sprockets. To get the oil seals out, you need to take a small flathead screwdriver and dig into the oil seal at roughly a 90 deg angle to the shaft. Once it's in there, you push the screwdriver towards the engine while having the middle part on a fulcrum point. This will pop the seal out. I spent a good amount of time cursing until I figured this out. After that....it was done in 5 min. You need to be careful not to damage/scratch the surface of the crank/cam. Dusan, The timing belt on the 1990-1994 legacies should be replaced every 60,000 miles

Hmm......I am unfortunately not as familar with the OBD2 codes and what some of them can mean. Anyone else have any ideas?

great resource http://techinfo.subaru.com

I believe the 2.5's started in the mid 90's. Anything around that vintage or late 90's should have the type of exhaust setup you need. I can't tell you though whether the mount point on the tranny will be the same however. You really should run at least a high flow cat. The car will more then likely run worse. The exhaust needs a little back pressure.

They'll bolt on....however I can't tell you whether the intake manifold will have some issues aligning properly, or if the coolant passages and other stuff will be exactly the same. Also....the turbo heads will have a line for oil to feed the turbo...the n/a heads won't. I'd probably pass on swapping. Why are you looking to do this?

You can take a look at my pics from my timing belt change http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/ Only tricky thing I'd say is most people mistake the timing mark on the crank gear. Depending on how the previous mechanic aligned things, the marks on the timing belt may or may not be aligned with the marks on the gears/pullies. It really doesn't matter, but if you make sure both the marks on the belt and pullies are aligned, it's just an easy way to check to make sure you have everything correct. The tensioner needs to be slowly compressed in a vice. If it's leaking...replace. Also, here's the t-belt change procedure out of the fsm http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg Just curious....what problems is the car having? You either have a busted timing belt.....or you don't. There really shouldn't be any in between that would cause it to run poorly, unless it's skipped a tooth, which might be caused by a worn tensioner.