Legacy777

Was this a subaru dealer? Or just some mechanic? It doesn't sound like the mechanic knows what's going on. You can take your car to autozone and have them read the codes in the engine. See what codes are in there, and if they are related to the work the mechanic did, or something completely different.

have you jacked up the car and rotated the wheels by hand to see if they roll smoothly?

I guess let's start with what a booster does, provide brake assist via engine vacuum and a diaphragm. The larger the diaphragm, the more brake assist you will get. What the tandem booster does is provide double the amount of brake assist in a much smaller package (diameter). I believe the issue most people have with the tandem booster and the "dead" area is with how it works, and let's vacuum into both chambers. I don't think it does this evenly, or there is some slack or something in how it works that gives you that blah feeling. I got a spare tandem booster, and plan on cutting it open to see exactly how it works, and if the system is truly a tandem only system, or if it's more like a 1st and 2nd stage/level of brake assist.

yeah I bought it in the states. I don't remember what exactly the cost is. It wasn't too much.

Hmm....I know the US spec BC's got the tandem booster. Here's pics of the single diaphragm booster I swapped in mine. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/DCP_3250.JPG there's a few more on this page http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/default.htm forgot I have pics of the tandem booster too http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/10/DCP_3272.JPG

MRT makes a similar bracket. While it does help, it doesn't solve the problem. Almost all brake boosters today are tandem boosters. (not dual-staged) Due to how they're setup they produce that (dead pedal) feel at the very beginning of the stroke. I recently swapped to the single diaphragm booster and will say that it made a world of difference in the brake pedal feel.

If you can swap the motor yourself, why can't you do the headgasket? You can d/l factory manuals from http://techinfo.subaru.com that should give you all the info you need. It's possible more stuff might go wrong, but every car is different, and depends on how it was cared for before.

The Mi was a special package in 94. You can read more info here http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html#1994%20Legacy As for the heater core. That sounds a little high, but to get at the heater core, they pretty much have to tear the entire dash apart to replace it...which is A LOT of labor.

I'd probably just replace the headgasket. Far easier IMO then doing the motor swap and trying to deal with the issues that could arise. If the motors were both new gen motors doing the motor swap might be easier....

No you don't need to swap the hard fuel lines that hook up to the rails.

have you tried swapping the injector connectors to double check? Other thing you can do is pull one connector off while the engine is running. It will leave a code in the ECU. Check the code, and it will specify which injector it came from. If it doesn't correspond to cylinder # you pulled off, you know you got the wrong ones on.

This issue is a little more complicated regarding the OBD. OBD2 was implemented to standardized everything. Emission places now just plug into the computer, so the car needs to stay OBD2. I know for a fact the idle air control valve has changed over the years, there may be a few other issues with wiring and such. Are they show-stopper issues. I don't really know. If you got the time to try it, go for it. Yeah the tranny will work fine with the 2.2

I'm not quite sure borla goes around the front of the engine. Maybe to tune exhaust pulses. The borla 2.5 header will bolt up, however you will need a different piping from the header back, since on the first gen legacies the first cat was in the header, and on the newer models, there's a separate pipe for both cats.

Is it a 97 gt, or 94 gt? I'm assuming 97. The engine will physically bolt in, however some of the sensors and such have changed, so that may cause some issues. Also, the 93 engine setup is OBD1, and the 97 is OBD2.

Does the IAC valve look like this? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG If it's exactly like that, the engine you got was from an automatic. If the engine seems to be running good, I'm sort of at a lost as to your mileage. Reset the ECU and report back. Who rebuilt the tranny? Does it have any kind of warranty?

enough

Was the engine out of a MT or AT car? On the 90-91's, if it was an MT car, some of the sensors on it are different. IAC valve, injectors, and MAFHave you reset your ECU?

Have you checked/changed the tranny fluid recently?

Yeah the MAF sensor is right after the air box, that is what I'm talking about. What silver thing are you talking about? The throttle body? Sorry to hear about all the headaches. I'm sort of at a loss to what the issue is, whether it's a tranny issue or engine issue. I know before I swapped trannies, I was getting horrible mileage with my auto. How many miles are on the tranny?

Ok, So you have a 1993 Legacy automatic with a silver MAF? You've got the incorrect MAF sensor. All the automatic's had the black MAF sensor. Did it always have the silver MAF? The idle thing.....you shouldn't have turned the screw. By doing that, you're fixing a symptom, not the problem. the MAF sensor thing may be the cause of the idle.

I hate to keep harping on this, but it is NOT a 90-92. The change occured between the 91 & 92 model years. So it would be a 90-91. What color MAF do you have? Black or silver? I was unaware of any screws that could (should) be tweaked on the MAF.

Eek.....there's just way too much stuff going on in this thread. One thing at a time. Hondasucks, how you've described the ignition system is partially correct. It's the 1 & 2 cylinders & 3 & 4 cylinders that fire at the same time. See the little piston numbering diagram in my post. As for how the current flows. It doesn't flow back up into the coil. The front coil is tied directly to the same output for cylinders 1 & 2. Similarly, the output for the rear coil is tied to cylinders 3 & 4. If you had long enough spark plug wires, you could reverse wires 1 & 2.......similarly 3 & 4, and the car would run fine. The power flows through the coil into the plug and then grounds itself through the block and back to the battery. John.....so did you swap injectors and fuel rails? It sounds like you did. The 90-91 injectors are different from the 92-94 injectors. Since you have three posts in a row saying what I think you are doing, or did.....can you post the answer's for these questions, for my clarification. What model year is your car? Which MY injectors and fuel rails are currently installed in your car? Which MY harness is currently installed in your car? BTW John, the changes took place between the 90-91 MY's and the 92-94 MY's, not 90-92 & 93-94.

Ok....here's how you can tell which plug goes where. Check the color of the wires going to each plug. The numbering scheme should be the same as the piston numbering scheme 3 4 1 2 front of engine For the 92-94 legacies #1 injector Pin 1 = Br (Brown) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) #2 injector Pin 1 = Lg (Light Green) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) #3 injector Pin 1 = LR (Blue w/ Red stripe) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) #4 injector Pin 1 = LB (Blue w/ Black stripe) Pin 2 = Y (Yellow) If you need the 90-91 color scheme, let me know.

wait wait. So you swapped the injectors over too? You're running the 91 injectors on your 93? The injectors will work, however the ecu's for the 90-91's are not setup the same. The duty cylce is different or something is different with the injectors. If you did indeed swap injectors, you need to put the old fuel rails and injectors back on (might as well swap the manifold back). Or you can get a 90-91 ECU....However that can open another can of worms, which you probably don't want to deal with. I swapped a set of 92 balanced and blue printed injectors in my 90, and it ran, but it got horrible mileage and power was not what it used to be.

The 2.2's out of the first gen legacies are different then the ones in the 2nd gen legacies. There are a few internal changes, as well as the heads, and few misc other stuff. You could swap it in, but you'll need a new exhaust manifold and probably need to tweak a few other things. I'd probably pass on getting the motor.