Legacy777

Just an fyi on the wiring harness thing. The 90-91 engines had a three plug electrical harness, while the 92-94's only had a two plug harness. This was the problem you ran into correct? As for which injector is which. I can take a look at the factory manuals when I get home, or you can look through the one I posted in your other thread.....or was that someone else's thread. Here's pics from my injector swap. Maybe you can find a clue about which connector goes where from them. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

Swapping the manifold around has been done. It's usually to reduce the amount of intercooler piping if you're running a large front mount. Still not sure how much more room you're going to get by doing for a twin setup.

www.subaruparts.com www.1stsubaru.com

tire circumfirence is what you're looking for.

Just be careful pulling that seal out. The way I usually get seals out is jab a small screwdriver in the sealing surface of the seal at a 90 degree of the shaft. However with that in so deep, I'm not sure it would work. If you had one of those pick things, you might be able to snag the seal enough to pull it out some. This is only the engine & engine electrical sections of the fsm, but probably a lot better then what you have. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ There's various other misc scans here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans

I got ya now. According to the fsm, it is a dual circuit design, and it looks to have two independent pistons that are separated by a spring. There is also a spring in front of the first piston.

yeah I'd recommend pulling it out, and yeah it's just supposed to be flush with the rear of the crank. Like this http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/11/DCP_3275.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/11/DCP_3274.JPG

yeah....$4800 markup is crazy. I'd look into buying one in another state or the other side of the mtns. If you find a good dealership, you'd be surprised how accomodating they will be to work with you, since you are going out your way to come to them.

that's BS.....so what are they selling for?

can you elaborate on what you mean by the "piston can move full forward.." I've swapped around MC's and tried to bench bleed...it was for the most part unsuccessful IMO, yet successful in making a mess....I said screw it and just put everything together and bled it on the car. I don't notice any adverse affects from doing this.....?

Keith, The proper bleeding sequence according to the FSM is Right Front Left Rear Left Front Right Rear. Subaru does it backwards for some reason. I've bled both ways, and for some stubborn air, the sequence in the FSM was the way I got it out.

How did you bleed the brakes? order, method, etc? How did the pedal feel before you bled the brakes? I don't think thin rotors would cause what you're experiencing. I'm not sure what the run out spec is for that car. You may want to call the dealer and see if they'll tell you.

Starter solenoid contacts. here's tiny clark's document http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/starter.doc here's some additional pics (starter solenoid pics towards the bottom) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/13/default.htm http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/startersolenoid1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/startersolenoid2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/startersolenoid3.jpg

You sure you got all the air out of the lines? Does the pedal feel soft initially? If so, does pumping it again firm it up?

Ok.....let's get a little background on your custom application, and what you have modified and how. Without that....we're just guessing. That aside, you can check the codes. The pins for the diagnostic connectors are still there on the ECU, and you can hook up a little 12v light to the output of the CEL circuit. have you had the battery & alternator tested? Have you checked for a short? That almost sounds like what's goin on with your latest issue.

it's normal. my 90 does the same thing. Just how the cruise logic is setup.

It's not ok to run mismatched tires....especially mismatched sizes. You'll cause quite a bit of havoc and eventually damage with the awd

You can tell by looking at how the clutch fork mounts. If it's on a pivot ball, it's a push type tranny. If the clutch fork goes through a cylindrical rod, it's a pull type. Look at some of the pics on my swap site. I have a pull type

Oh, by the way, if you do end up needing a 3.900 rear diff, I know someone in california that has one.

What do you mean?

It's a simple sensor connected to the coolant runner under the intake manifold. All you have to do is unscrew it. here's a pic. It's the brown one http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectrs/DCP_2477.JPG here's a better pic to orient yourself where the sensor is, in relation to the engine http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2476.JPG

As cookie mentioned, check your tires. Subaru says that the circumfirence needs to be within 1/4" between all tires. If your tires are ok, then first thing I'd suggest is changing the transmission fluid. Old fluid can sometimes cause contamination or issues with the rear clutch pack. If that doesn't help, you'll most likely need to have the rear clutch pack worked on / rebuilt. The automatic's AWD system is controlled by the trans computer. It has a rear housing with clutch packs in there. A duty solenoid controls line pressure to the clutch packs, which in turn varies how much power goes to the rear wheels. When you put the fuse in, it sends a constant 12v source to that solenoid which pretty much closes it, and sends very little to no power to the rear wheels. It's not a good idea to run too long with the fuse in, because the solenoid is designed to get a pulsed signal from the TCU, rather then a constant signal. So you could prematurely wear out the duty c solenoid. here's scans from the factory manuals of the auto's awd system http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg

As thawa mentioned above, the wrx uses a 1.1:1 stepper. So if the tranny is 3.900 and not a WRX, then you can not use the WRX rear diff, because it is 3.545. You'll need to find one out of a car with 3.900 final drive ratio and a 1:1 front/rear center gear ratio.

To the right of the glove box, assuming it's the same as the first gen legacies. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location05.jpg

Yeah, your torque converter locks up. I'm pretty sure it only happens in fourth gear though. The TCU will adjust the amount of lockup via a control solenoid.