Legacy777

I've got a tanker story. This was a month or so. I was in my cube, and one of the directors comes over and starts looking out the window. There was a HUGE plume of black smoke and flames on the 610 loop here in Houston. Apparently a tanker truck was going to fast, and traffic was backing up at the off ramp.....he couldn't stop in time, plowed into several cars, rolled over and the thing burst into a huge fireball. They had both sides (4-5 lanes) closed for several hours. The thing burned for a good hour or so. It was crazy. We got a pretty good view from our building though

how does it run? Is there anything out of the ordinary?

I try not to get gas when the tanker is there. I have done it before. I think some of the getting gas when the tanker is there problems are more myths. There is probably some truth to them though on older stations especially.

So with the fuse and battery method the codes came back right away?

Hmm....have you looked through all the engine and wiring diagrams in that manual.....just to make sure everything was wired properly?

Are the codes active codes? Like is the CEL blinking while you drive? Or do they just show up again when you check the black connectors? if the CEL isn't on, or blinking while driving, then these codes are probably stored codes, and not active. Try disconnecting the EGI/TCU fuse (which I think is fuse # 14 at the driver's kick panel) for 30 minutes. Drive the car around, and then check codes again.

It's controlled all in the ECU. If you replaced the ECU, it shouldn't be that......but something just isn't adding up....

yeah, clear the codes, and see what comes back.

Ok....I guess let's recap some things here. It sounds like the ECU ground and power supplies are good. It also looks like the cam and crank sensors are working properly. I don't remember if you told me, but have you tested the ignitor signal directly at the ECU pins? They should be pins 9 & 10 of the F47 connector. You should see voltage varying while cranking. If you only get the one output working there....I'm really lost....

When it fails to start, does the engine turn over, or does it do nothing?

pretty much, yeah....the car won't run without it.

hmm.....I'll have to think about this....

should work....give it a try.

what error message did you get or what exactly did it not do? I had someone else mention the links didn't work. They are working fine at my work. I've attached the file, so you should be able to get it. 2002_wrx_abs_diag.pdf

Unless they imported it, it's just the badge

More then likely, the diagnostic procedure for your 98 is the same as the 02 WRX. You can check out this scan for how to pull the codes from the abs computer. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/2002_WRX_FSM/scans/2002_wrx_abs_diag.pdf

Code 11 is the crank angle sensor Code 31 is the throttle sensor more info on all the rest of the codes can be found on my site. Have your friend reset the ECU, again the procedure can be found on my site, and see if the codes come back. If one or both come back, then I would investigate further.

You're very welcome! Glad it worked. Only other thing I might suggest doing is resetting the ECU. The learning maps can be more heavily altered by negative things, like sensor error codes and other stuff, so you may want to reset the ECU to clear those things from the learning maps. It's entirely up to you. If you do, pull fuse 14 EGI/TCU for 30 min. I'm pretty sure it's fuse 14, but just verify it says EGI/TCU.

I don't know if they are integrated, however replacing just the radio would be kind of difficult since the trim and everything is all integrated. You might want to try asking your subaru dealership, to see if they know or will tell you.

Dave I moved your first thread here, and replied to it. The knocking noise is the ac compressor. The ac system turns on when the defrost mode is selected to remove excess moisture from the air. You can try shooting some more refrigerant/oil in there to see if it quiets down. If not, you'll need a new compressor. You can probably just keep running it.....I ran mine that way for a while.

Stick a fuse in the FWD fuse holder. If the binding goes away, I'd say the duty c solenoid is still good, and it's probably the clutch pack. If the binding does not go away with the fuse in there, the duty c solenoid is probably bad. If the fuse method cures the binding, I'd suggest changing the transmission fluid. If it's real bad looking, drive it for a while, and change it again to get the nasty stuff out. Also there is an additive you can add that has helped others. I don't remember the specifics however on the additive.

i replied to your pm, but so everyone has the benefit of following the problem and hopefully resolution, here's my reply The speed sensor is tied into the speedometer. The odometer and speedometer are all driven by the same cable. So yes, it doesn't surprise me at all. The cam or crank code that was there may be a fluke. I'd fix the speedo issue, drive the car, and then check the codes to see if it comes back. The no speedo issure will also mess with how the transmission shifts. The TC will not lockup and the radiator fans will be on constantly. Follow the cable down to the transmission to find that base piece. Take the cable out of the piece, stick it in a drill and see if you can make the speedo move. If you can, the cable is good, and more then likely it's the base piece. Once you take it off, you should be able to tell right away if it's bad or not.

yup.... there are three screws holding in at the top and a screw clamp at the bottom rubber hose.

Do you have an auto tranny? If so, the base cable piece probably broke. It's relatively common. I replaced mine a while ago. It's not hard, and the piece isn't expensive. You need to make sure to get the old washer and rubber piece out when you replace the piece. here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

More then likely the filler neck is rusted out, rather then the whole fuel tank. I have a buddy who had this problem in his 95 legacy. There is a plastic cover over the filler neck tube. Remove that and you'll be able to see more clearly at the filler neck. If the tank does need to be replaced, you'll have to drop the driveline, and maybe the rear subframe, depending or not if you can get access to the bolts that hold the gas tank straps on. I've got a few pictures of the gas tank out and some other misc pictures from my awd & 5mt swap that might help www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap