Legacy777

What type of MAF sensor does the car have? You might want to try running the car at night and spraying a fine mist around the electrical components to see if you see any arcing, which might indicate insulation breakdown somewhere in the electrical wiring/components.

It's "possible" that not having the kit installed may have led to a premature failure. The filter is more of a screen meant to catch larger particles. How many miles are on the car? Was the transmission fluid changed routinely? My AT had about 179k miles on it, and it was pretty much done. It still worked, but shifts were sluggish, and it slipped. To get it back to new, it would've needed a complete rebuild, which I didn't want to do, so I put in an MT.

I'm not trying to shun people from this board, it's just that there are a lot more people who actually own the new GT between the other two boards mentioned, which may give them some more info that they otherwise would not be able to get here. this is pretty much the same reason I recommend people to the legacycentral bbs. There are people that are on both this board and other boards, but why not give someone the information/opportunity to gather more info using another resource.

May want to ask your question in the legacy forums on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums and www.legacygt.com/forums there's a lot more new legacy owners to give feedback between those two resources.

I'd suggest asking your question on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

You can use pads other then OEM and not have squeaking issues. It's true that some aftermarket pads do squeak. So decent pads are axxis metal master and ultimates. There's a few others, but with the rear pads they don't do much braking anyway. As for rotors, most of the brembro rotors you see are just going to be in brembro boxes, and not actually be manufactured by brembro. I personally like OEM rotors....but that's just my opinion.

it's on my site this page to be exact http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Try clearing the codes using the connector method outlined on my site. Sometimes the battery method doesn't work.

27mpg is damn good for that car. I'd be lucky to get 25 around town. I can push 30 mpg on the interstate if I'm not hauling arse and stay out of it. As for the whistle. I had a whistle that turned out to be a hole in the muffler. If your muffler is original and looks in bad shape.....it wouldn't surprise me if that's the culprit. Have you had someone sit in the car and you be out side and walk around, trying to find the whistle.

The clicking noise is fine when the green connectors are connected. The pump should definitely see 12v, or whatever the battery is seeing. What's the voltage at the pump? Not sure how to get rid of the clicking noise coming from the abs....you're talking about the ABS computer, relay, or control unit in the engine bay?

yup...car has to be running to properly check the level.

This scan got cut off, but it shows the location of the relay http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg The clicking you're hearing. Are the green or black diagnostic connectors connected? They're under the dash. You can check out my site for info and pics.

How are you checking the level?To properly check the level, the transmission fluid needs to be at normal operating temp. Driven around for a couple miles. Park the car on a level surface, slowly cycle the gear selector from park to 1st and then back to park. Leave the engine running, and then check fluid level.

There is no fuse, only a relay What model year legacy is it?

Have you asked in the old gen forum since it's an 80's subie? I know the 4EAT is mostly the same, but there may be some differences in electronics.

If you checked the codes after the light was on, right them down, clear the codes, drive the car, and see what, if any come back. Instructions how to do all that, and what the codes mean are on my site.

Can you provide a little more information on the car, model, etc. Does your gear selector have a 1 position? What happens when you put it in the 1 position? What do you mean it "locks up" when you put in 2nd?

The dipstick for the front differential is on the right (passenger) side of the tranny. The transmission fluid level dipstick is on the left (driver's) side of the tranny. What I'd do is put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and see if the issues go away. If so, your problem is with the rear extension housing/awd system. I'd suggest replacing the fluid first, and see if that helps the problem. If you do have to replace/repair the clutch packs you don't need to replace the entire transmission.

One comment. Putting the fuse in the fuse holder does NOT make it safe to tow an AWD car with the wheels on the ground. The fuse holder is there mainly for diagnostic purposes, as well as emissions and dyno testing. Do what 93leg suggested and see if your binding goes away with the fuse in.

I'd probably replace the anti-sway bar bushings with polyurethane ones, as well as get new end links. The front bushing on the control arm is pressed in, and you'd need a press for that. I'm not sure of any aftermarket bushings for that one. The rear bushing on the control arm should be able to be removed without taking off the control arm. I'd suggest talking to whiteline and see what they can offer you.

The filters on the transmissions aren't really the same as oil filters. They're more or less just screen type filters, so they more or less don't need to be replaced too often. I know this to be the case with the older ones, and I'm pretty sure the newer ones are similar.

The only thing that needs greasing is the caliper guide pins. However if the dealer had the caliper off to check this and didn't grease them, that's pretty shotty service. As for the vibration, did you just have new brake pads put on? It's possible the old pad material on the rotor is causing an intermittant deposit of the new pad material and causing the shimmy you feel. You can try taking the rotors off and sanding them to see if that helps. Where do you feel the vibration? In the steering wheel or in the brake pedal? The valve noise is probably from the lifters. If the oil wasn't changed regularly, it's possible crud got into the hydraulic lifters and gummed things up.

So the speedo doesn't work normally? Are you getting any codes? If not, It's probably the motor in the dash that operates the speedo needle. If it were the speed sensor, it would pop up a CEL. It's possible there is a loose connection. If you wanted to take apart the dash and pull out the combination unit to check it out, you might get lucky.

If the car's running fine, I wouldn't bother with another maf. That code is for the a/f learning control, which is tied to the ECU. You'd be better off trying another ecu IMO.

Hmm.....yeah...something sounds weird. To be quite honest, most dealer mechanics are just parts changers. They have very little troubleshooting skills, and unless a blatent computer code is flashing in their face, they're stumped. You never answered my question. So the starter cranks? but the engine doesn't start? There's two things you need for the engine to work, fuel and spark. If the engine is cranking, not starting, and you pull a plug out and it's wet, I'd say you have fuel. Leave a plug out and resting against the block to see if you have spark. The only thing left is to check whether spark & fuel are being delivered at the appropriate times. If the timing belt is good and aligned properly, then it's possible your ECU is on the fritz.