Legacy777

Check out my site, under the notes & tips, engine related you'll find instructions on how to pull the engine codes, reset the ecu, etc. The black connectors "may" be on the left side of the steering wheel. They moved them around on some of the model years. The FWD light on means someone has inserted a fuse in the FWD fuse holder in the engine bay, which disables the AWD system. This could have been done to mask/hide binding in the transmission due to worn rear clutch packs, or old/burnt transmission fluid. Or possibly some other issue. I'd suggest pulling the fuse out, drive the car and see if you notice any weird torque bind issues while doing sharp turns. The transmission add-on filters are designed to really not be replaced. It's far cheaper to buy the entire retro-fit kit for like 20 bucks then it is to buy just the filter if you really want to replace the filter. A tranny cooler, and changing the transmission fluid regularly and possibly to synthetic will yield greater benefits then messing with that so called filter. Also, you might want to check out the svx network if you already haven't www.subaru-svx.net

Yeah take a look at the owner's manual. It's got a lot of good info on the car in there. They really did a good job with it.

Any 5 x 100 wheel with at least 40+mm of offset should fit. The larger the wheel you get, the more offset you will need. I don't know about the peugot wheels you're talking about. They sound more like something that would fit the older 4-lug subarus.

If press the "heat" button it'll blow air at your feet and at the window. That's normal. If you press the "vent" button it'll blow air/heat through the vents in the dash. The "bi-level" button splits air between the vents in the dash and the floor. I'm not sure if that answers your question, or if you're having a similar issue where the buttons don't work right. The HVAC unit has some soldered pins on a circuit board where the solder cracks and the connection isn't there all the times. This will result in the vent selection to not work at all, and it'll just blow at your feet.

good luck!

Yeah I was going to say, get a tester and check pressure, you won't be able to tell without it.

They didn't make a whole lot of touring wagons. I'd give the dude 1k for the car. The engine and associated goodies on the car are worth it alone IMO. Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org for more info/comments.

There are two ecu manufactures. JECS and Hitachi. The Hitachi ECU's are used with the manual tranny cars or silver MAF's. The JECS ECU's are used with the auto tranny cars or black MAF's.

Yeah I'd agree with the starter/solenoid issue. Stick your head under the hood while someone tries to start it, and see if then you hear any clicking noises.

I unfortunately don't know for sure whether they are swappable. There's a good chance they are. If you have access to one, you could give it a shot and see if it works.

Take it to the subaru dealer, they can pull the codes.

I'm not really sure about terminal configuration. You might find the info in here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/

As for the torque bind......first check that you have all the same tires and pressure is good. Then change the trans fluid. There is an additive you can add if that doesn't work that might help. The final drive ratio for the 94 AT is 3.900. If you want LSD, you'd have to find one from a 91 turbo legacy.

Yeah, that's normal for the fans to be on.

Yeah.....you pretty much need a new tranny. You may want to look at trying to get a low mileage tranny. It may be cheaper then having it rebuilt. If you decide to have it rebuilt I'd stay away from AAMCO. I haven't heard anything good about them. You may want to ask around on the board as well other people in your area for a good trans shop.

No I don't have a window in my cube. My cube is just backed up against the side of the building, with a 3 ft walkway to the next cube in the back. The building is a glass facade building, so I can swivel around in my chair and see outside. It's the building in the building in the background for my pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/21/DCP_3516.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/00/DCP_2388.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/00/DCP_2419.JPG

So it's just not working at all? What you could do to verify whether the pump is working is to connect some additional vacuum hose to the line going to the diaphragm and run that in the car. Then set the cruise and see if it has vacuum or not.

yeah it's a nice feature. here's a pic from the donor car http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/02/DCP_3065.JPG

I've never known crank sensors to just burn out.......something weird is definitely going on.

First of all, a little background and more details would be helpful for others trying to help you. I'm assuming you're talking about a first gen legacy. The auto seat belt issue. Pull the codes and see if there are any codes in the computer to see if it's a limit switch or something like that. If no codes are present, then I'd check the motor and/or the connections going to the motor. here's the diagnostic procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/autoseatbeltdiag3.jpg The headlights http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22828&highlight=yellow+headlight Oil leak. What did you tighten, where area is the oil leaking from? More details would help. Common areas for oil leaks are the valve cover gaskets, grommets, and oil filler o-ring. Also the rear cam seal (o-ring) is a normal leaker too. Depending on age and the like....the front ones can get leaky too.

www.cvaxles.com probably one of the better rebuilders.

I've got a tanker story. This was a month or so. I was in my cube, and one of the directors comes over and starts looking out the window. There was a HUGE plume of black smoke and flames on the 610 loop here in Houston. Apparently a tanker truck was going to fast, and traffic was backing up at the off ramp.....he couldn't stop in time, plowed into several cars, rolled over and the thing burst into a huge fireball. They had both sides (4-5 lanes) closed for several hours. The thing burned for a good hour or so. It was crazy. We got a pretty good view from our building though

how does it run? Is there anything out of the ordinary?

I try not to get gas when the tanker is there. I have done it before. I think some of the getting gas when the tanker is there problems are more myths. There is probably some truth to them though on older stations especially.

So with the fuse and battery method the codes came back right away?