Legacy777

you're already on there....at the top http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/links.html#vendors

I'm planning on updating my site. I would like some suggestions on what you might like to see regarding the first generation legacies. Also if you have a vendor you've dealt with and don't see it on my site, please let me know. Any suggestions/comments are welcome. I'll be gathering comments and sorting through everything in a little bit.

I highly suggest you replace all four at once. Replacing just the fronts or the rears (especially just the rears) can put you into a situation where the car's balance/handling is thrown out of whack. I speak from experience. I put new struts on the rear and the fronts were relatively new, but a strut of lesser quality. The car was extremely tail happy and the rear end would break loose on turns. With that said, I highly recommend KYB GR2 struts. They are an excellent compromise between a performance strut and good ride. They are about 20% stiffer then the stock setup, but by no means super stiff. Replace all four, and you will be amazed in the transformation of your car.

It's probably a dieing alternator. Have her take it to an autozone or something, and have them check the electrical/charging system.

You've got a rare one there....Taken from the bottom of this page..... http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html Legacy Ti Outdoor Wagon Legacy L All-Wheel-Drive with value Option Group #2 plus: adjustable air suspension, body color front grill, mud flaps, woven cloth interior (instead of plush), under passenger seat storage tray, rubber cargo mat, luggage rack with Bike attachement, rear stabilzer bar, engine skidplate Yellow "Subaru" lettering with pine trees exterior graphics

tap into the radio wiring

hmm....not sure what to tell you. You might have them take the wheel off and see if they notice anything out of whack.

Where does it sound like it's coming from? Under the dash, engine compartment, back of car? Is the tick engine or speed dependent. I know you said it goes away at faster or slower speeds....but does it change pitch if you accelerate or decelerate at that speed?

Sorry....I don't mean to one up you.....just making another recomendation.

Don't you have a pry bar to stick in there.....that should get it unstuck.

I would say the fuse is a more a temporary diagnostic tool, not a permanent fix. Are you getting the syn differential fluid for the tranny to see if it fixes things? Or did you just decide to replace the diff fluid? What model and year subaru do you have? I wrote up a little article on how to get rid of the yellow headlights for the first gen legacy. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739&highlight=yellow+sand%2A

only thing I'd do different from coloradosubarules instructions is open the bleed screw from the very beginning.

Yeah I've driven through fort collins....and it just so happened to be the weekend of the air show....what a nightmare traffic was.....I ended up ditching the interstate after sitting for 45 min or so. No you can't use a WRX flywheel, however the link I gave you was for all the other EJ series motors/trans with the push type clutch. (btw wrx & t-legacy are pull type clutch, all others are push) I did mine with the engine in. I never pulled the engine. Honestly, I didn't think it was that hard. Removing the MT was no way near as bad as the AT. You will have to drop the exhaust, disconnect the shift linkage, all the wires, etc going to the tranny, and remove the starter and pitch mount to be able to get the tranny out. I wouldn't suggest trying it by yourself. You'll need another body to get the tranny out. It's not a super easy job, but it's not super hard either. I guess it'll also depend on whether or not you have the facilities to work on it too.

58-62 ft-lbs is what the fsm says

Well I've heard nothing but good things about the exedy lw flywheels. I have one, and the quality looks to be very good. Plus I found it for a very good price. This is for your car $339 http://www.ninosautoaccessories.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_39&products_id=65 I don't think you'll be able to touch that price for a good LW flywheel. You need a clutch too don't you? I'm just using the stock wrx clutch for now....it's alright. Since exedy makes subaru clutches, you could probably go with them and maybe a slightly more agressive one. Yeah I'll have to come visit you in CO.....what area of CO you planning to live in?

The VSS is in the tranny. However there will be a line going to the ECU and TCU. I'd suggest getting a ECU I/O diagram from your dealer or somewhere, so you know what wire to tap into. Then all you need to do is use a T-tap or something similar to get the VSS signal. Also, there are two speed sensors...assuming you have an automatic. You'll want to use VSS 2. That's the main speed sensor, and feeds the speedo on the gauge cluster.

Is the thermostat you put an OEM thermostat or aftermarket? Aftermarket thermostats you find at the parts stores will cause you nothing but problems. Get an OEM one, it's completely different in shape & size. Also, there is a burp screw on the passenger side of the radiator. If you did not open this, more then likely, there's still air in the system.

The horn relay for the legacy is up the left of the driver's area. You can see it in this scan. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location03.jpg I think the pic got cut off, I'll be hopefully getting an updated pic online. Also, just an fyi. I've got scans for all the electrical unit/relay locations on my swap page. Yes they are for the legacy, but should be similar for other models and years.

When did you decide to move out to CO?

I've got the exedy 14 lb flywheel. It does aid in the acceleration of the motor. I don't have any issues with starting/stopping etc. However you do need to give the car a little more gas, and be more aware of starting off. I had a friend who drives an sti drive my car and he stalled it a couple times.

yeah, pull the plug boots out of the heads. I've seen some filled with water before....electrical systems don't like that Also, what you may want to do is take a spray bottle, and spray a fine mist of water over the engine at night with it running. You should be able to see any little sparks if you have a bad coil pack or wires. I doubt the TPS is your problem.

let us know what you find out.

If no one has an answer by this evening, I can check the fsm's when I get home. I think it's around 60 ft-lbs.....but lemme check.

check out this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22747 If you have an automatic, put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder to see if the problem goes away. If it does, it's transmission related, not cv axle related.

yup.....there's some threads regarding the contacts. You might want to do a search. You can see pics of the solenoids and plunger from my swap pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/13/default.htm