Legacy777

I was looking through some diagrams last night, and both pins of the fuel pump relay are actually tied to the ecu http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical1.jpg

The MC will not affect bias in any way. A larger/smaller MC will affect pedal travel mostly, and feel slightly. To answer your question, more then likely the WRX will not work. Where do the brake lines come out on your current MC? To the side and to the bottom? Do you have ABS? If you have ABS, you probably have them only to the side. If you have upgraded to larger calipers, and are having issues with pedal travel being too much, you could probably upgrade to a legacy MC. If you can give me some more details on your current setup, and what you want to change, I can help you size things properly. I've essentially redesigned my entire brake system. The only thing left stock is the hard lines.

Got some more info. I wonder if the MPFI diode got messed up. It's tied into the ignition lead going to the alternator. The other thing I could think of after looking at the diagrams is the ECU might be tweaked. You need to do some more testing. Other thing I can think of if the fuse box has some fried stuff some where. Here's some wiring diagrams that should help out a lot. Diode location http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location12.jpg ECU I-O http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page3.jpg Power supply routing (you can see the outputs from the alternator here) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_power_supply_routing1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_power_supply_routing2.jpg Engine Electrical (last 2 aren't pertinent, but to be complete) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical2.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical3.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical4.jpg

Glen, he's not talking about the main lead going to the battery. He's talking about the larger white wire in the plug that goes to the alternator. The newer alternators do not have this ignition lead. That wire should only have power when the ignition is on.

Yes, the ECU triggers the fuel pump relay to turn on. The rollover valve is mechanical, and not electronic, so it's probably not that. Have you put a tester on the fuel line to see if there is any pressure at any time?

It's the abs computer http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/absdiag.jpg

Hmmm.....something definitely sounds screwy. I don't really see how just plugging the alternator in could cause all that. Did you try and put a voltmeter on the plug for the alternator? The two smaller leads are sense & light, and shouldn't have anything coming from them. The fatter wire is the ignition lead telling the alternator it's ok to "turn on" and make power now. You should have 12v on that when the key is turned to the ignition, and no other times. Check that plug and see what you find out. You've definitely got some sort of wiring issue. I'd look around at all your wires in the engine bay and up under the dash and make sure no animals have chewed through them.

Yes, please do not post in all caps.

Yeah it sounds like the plastic speedo gear is busted. It's not too common for the gears to break, or at least that I've heard of. Far more common for the base piece to break. It's possible it broke on its own, but who's to say, and I'm not sure what the mechanic would've/could've done to break it. On the automatics since the gear goes to the diff, you don't have to take apart the tranny, but it still needs to be removed, the torque converter taken out, and the diff & tranny unbolted from each other. Regardless, not exactly a simple job.

isr & renick are one in the same.

The speedo cable is pretty easy to spot. Just follow it where it goes into the tranny. When you pull the base piece off, it should be pretty obvious if it's busted or not. Make sure you get the rubber piece and metal washer out of there as well. What I did was jack up the front of the car and turned the wheel to see if the gear in the tranny was still working. Once I knew that was fine, I just put everything back together. BTW, you can see the base piece in this pic http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/09/DCP_3217.JPG It's just in front of the filler tube on the right side of the tranny/diff.

your cruise won't work without the speedo working. There's actually quite a bit of stuff that will behave weirdly without the speedo working.

Sounds like the idle air control valve sticking. Do you have any other symptoms, or just that? You may want to pull the tube off the intake tube that goes to the idle air control valve and shoot some brake cleaner down there. It'll help get rid of any carbon build ups that may be causing the valve to stick.

So it just started doing this?

The speed sensor 2, which controls your speedometer is in the dash. The other is in the tail housing of the tranny. More then likely it's the speedo base piece. Here's 2 threads you can look over for more info. Fix the base piece, and then see how things are working. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27614&highlight=speed+cable+base http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23812&highlight=speed+cable+base

I don't really think a different fluid will do much else, synthetic might be better since it'll probably clean the insides a little more. Unfortunately, I don't know of anything else you can do. Seafoam makes stuff called transtune. I haven't used it, but have used their engine product. If you can find the transtune stuff, it might help www.seafoamsales.com

Do know you have to hold up the handle when closing the driver & passenger front doors for them to stay locked? Try holding the handle up as you shut the door, and it'll probably stay locked.

Mine used to do that. Have you changed the fluid recently? I'd suggest that as a first step to try and help. Maybe put some synthetic fluid in.

If you look in the center console there is an allen wrench type thing. At the base of the pillar between the front and rear doors there is a little round clip/flap. Take that out, and insert the allen wrench into the hex head bolt. You can turn that, and the motor will move, and the seat belt should move. You should be able to manually crank the seat belt in a position so you have a working seatbelt.

To be quite honest, you really can't compare AT's to MT's. It's like comparing apples to oranges. Final drive ratio is different, AT's have torque multiplication, etc, etc.

The old 4eat's are not the same as the new ones. In terms of AWD, the new VTD 4eat's have a better AWD sysetm then the 5mt's which has been the same for a while now.

Read these pages from the owner's manual http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/065.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/066.jpg It shows where the button is.

There is a button under the steering column you can push to get the key out.

Here's what I'd suggest doing to determine whether it's the booster or vacuum line. Take the line off the booster, plug it with something. Start the car, and then wiggle around the vacuum line and see if the engine stalls/bogs down. Unfortunately, I'd probably say that it's the booster. You could probably swap boosters from a similar model and model year near yours.

It never ceases to amaze me what they come up with....that bra one takes the cake as the top one.