Legacy777

greg donavon over on www.bbs.legacycentral.org has done it. Check over there. He can give you details.

Same way I get it off....stick something in the flex plate to hold the engine.

Do you have the legacy radiator? If so, there should be a burp screw on the top pass. side. If not......elevate the front end and see if that get's all the air out. Tach output wire is B56 pin 16. That lead actually goes to the TCU normally. The tach signal is sent via another pinout to the combination unit. I'm not sure which pin it is. but the B56 pin 16 should work.

yeah, you have to unbolt the tc from the flex plate. Once you do that, it should come off. I will say that it can be a royal pain to remove the AT.

correct, they are different and are not interchangeable.

probably the base piece. Check out these threads http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23812&highlight=speed+cable+base http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28351&highlight=speed+cable+base

replace the valve cover gasket & bolt gaskets, pressure wash everything, and see if you're leaking oil any more.

I know the 90, and I'm pretty sure the 91 legacy ECU's have a little green LED inside the ECU that can be seen through a hole in the case that will blink intermittantly based on the O2 sensor signal. However if you hook up the diagnostic connectors, it will flash the codes displayed in memory, if there's any there.

What model & year legacy do you have? You should be able to use the struts without altering ride height, however if you use the springs, you will probably alter the ride height. Also, you can not use the rear suspension setup from the WRX sedan, it has a different top mount configuration.

http://techinfo.subaru.com

If you drove it, and it doesn't feel like it's "binding" or lurching if you do a few doughnuts in the parking lot. You should be fine.

Don't do it this way! It's not that hard to do it the way I mentioned, and there's a lot less chance of something breaking or someone getting hurt. Use some common sense.

Put a prybar or big screwdriver in the access plug and snag the flex plate if you an auto. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG If you have a MT, put it in 5th gear, have someone step on the brakes, while you loosen the crank pulley.

There is no center diff with the older style automatic transmissions, so there is no way to do what you described. If it were a MT, or the newer VTD transmissions, you could probably do something similar because they have a center differential.

Without switching to a motor designed to run a turbo, you won't be able to run more then 4-5 psi. www.forcedairtech.com does sell some turbo kits, and I think there are some vendors on www.nasioc.com as well.

Then 92-94 autos were a little weird....they had the 3.90 final drive ratio for some reason, while the 90-91's had the 4.111. What year & model did the rear diff & transmission come out of? I have info on the 99, and it says that the autos in the 2.2 had 4.111, while autos in the 2.5 had 4.444. About the only way I know of to verify would be to drain the oil out of the front diff, shine a light in there, and count the teeth on the sun gear and pinion gear. Even then, I don't know if that's definitely because the fsm shows that the sun & pinion gear tooth # is the same on the 2.2 & 2.5. So I'm not really sure. If you can post what model & year car you got your parts from, that might be a start.

To replace the tank is a pain in the arse. You need to remove the entire rear suspension, subframe, and then you can drop the tank. If you have a helper, and tools, you could swap out the old one, and put in the new one in a day if you don't run into issues.

That's interesting to hear John. All the info I have see shows that the phase 2 transmissions have a different style plug connector.

If you were to put slightly lower springs & stiffer struts, it would handle better. A lot has to do with the suspension in the baja. The newer chassis are pretty rigid, it's just a matter of how the suspension is setup. I have a buddy with a forestor that has been lowered. It handles pretty good for a forestor. Still not going to handle as well with the larger profile tires, but everything is a compromise.

yeah you should be fine with the tranny.....unless your wife has a speed demon side....

MAF sensors could cause it....I know when I had mine going out. The engine would intermittantly cut out and lose power. It finally one day left a code for the MAF sensor. If you can find a MAF sensor cheap, it'd be worth trying to swap out the parts. You could try cleaning it with a light spray of brake cleaner. If you do this, you need to be very careful with it.

Read my write-up. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap I just did a 5spd & AWD conversion this past summer.

Tirerack.com has the best price on the KYB stuff. I think they're around 50-60 a strut for the GR2's.....somewhere in that ballpark.

Simple answer is.....you can't. In 96 subaru introduced the phase 2 4eat tranny. It added a few more features, sensors, and other gadgetry. The connector plugs changed as well. So despite the fact it will physically bolt up, you'll run into issues with the connectors. I suppose if you were really ambitious you could rewire the connector and match as many of pin outs as you can with the old setup. It would "probably" work ok.....however this a completely wild rump roast guess.

You may want to check out the texas regional forums on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums there's a lot of impreza guys in the dallas area, and they should be able to give you some ideas.