Legacy777

If it's been converted properly, the fittings will be different. The R12 fittings are smaller then the R134a fittings. Also the R134a fittings should have blue and red caps, vs the R12's maroon & black I think.

Don't clean the TB.....there is a film on there from the factory that helps keep carbon deposits from forming and causing a sticky throttle. As for the IAC valve. I did notice on my car that if I used the stock thin metal gasket over the newer composite gasket I would not get a whistle. However if switched, I would get a slight whistle.

You're not going to be able to disconnect the TCU connector from the wiring bundle easily. I'm sure there are some wires that are tied together. You could always cut the connector off, but really it's not that big a deal to just leave it. The 90-94 legacies use a mechanically driven gear in the tranny/diff that drives the VSS in the combination meter (gauge cluster). So it shouldn't be a big deal when converting it to an earlier car, since they probably had mechanical speedos as well.

I checked and the connector is the same. Pin 2 of the automatic (AT) connector of the IAC valve has 12v going to it from the ignition relay. Pins 1 & 3 go to the same spots on the ECU. The thing with the sensors.....You'll want to grab the appropriate sensors for whatever ECU you grab. JECS or Hitachi. That is going to determine what sensors you need. Injectors & MAF sensor are the biggies that need to match with the ECU, the other sensors can sort of be fudged, depending on the wiring of the AT/MT identifier pin on the ECU. Let me know if you have any more questions or if I didn't answer your current ones.

There are some differences. The 90-91 legacies had different sensors for the AT & MT cars. The MAF, IAC, fuel injectors, coil pack, ignitor, and possibly a few other things were different. However, out of that bunch, I think the IAC valve is the only one that could have a different connector....I'm not positive. In 92-94, the AT & MT's had all the same sensors as the 90-91 AT's. However the engine wiring harness went from a 3 plug setup in 90-91 to a 2 plug setup in the 92-94 models. So depending on what year the donor is, and whether it is AT or MT will determine whether you'll need to grab another engine harness to match it.

It probably needs freon. what pressures are you seeing?

I had a similar whistle/noise. I swore it was coming from the intake manifold. Turned out to be coming from a hole in the muffler. With the A/C on and idling, it makes the noise right? If so, get out and try to track down the noise. You may want to pick up a stethoscope to help isolate the noise.

duty B solenoid is in the transmission. speed sensor 2 is in (or is) the combination meter where the gauges are.

please refrain from posting in all caps. thank you.

Yeah....it wouldn't hurt. Removing the struts is not too big a deal IMO, no way near the job as swapping tanks.

All car manufacturers are raising prices.....it's ridiculous IMO how much cars have gotten. I think it's BS. In subaru's case, they are trying to compete with upscale markets. Their problem is their image. They have been known for good AWD cars, not too frilly, for a reasonable price. That is a rather big image to get past....with current customers, and future customers. It's the reason toyota created Lexus, and Nissan created infiniti. Personally, I don't think subaru will sell the volume of premium vehicles unless they follow suit with a premium brand.

yes you need the spindle, or you have to press off the drum backing plates, and press on the disc backing plates.

This is only good for the 95-99 legacies......but it's pretty nice decoder

You can do it in a weekend pretty easily. Depending on how much room you have, etc. You might be able to do it in a day, but I'd give yourself two days for those unexpected issues. You have to remove pretty much the entire rear suspension/drivetrain. Rear crossmember, trailing links, you could probably leave the struts & hubs on if you support them with something. Once that stuff is out of the way, you'll need to support the tank, unbolt the straps holding it, slowly let it down, and undo the electrical and hose fittings on the side of the tank, and the filler & vent lines. Check out some of the pics from my swap write up. That should give you some more ideas.

They should cover the damages. In some instances, the driver has to cover the damages up to a certain point, or at least that's the way it works for some of the moving van lines I've used.

yeah it'll fit just fine

Not sure what year you're looking to decode, but here's the decoder for the 90-94 MY legacies http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg

doesn't really matter about turbo or auto. It's the trans. As beezer mentioned, mt's have 50/50 torque split. the older autos have 90/10 under normal driving. The newer ones are 45/55.

oh ok....for the steering rack.

yup, should work just fine.

goo gone. Works like a charm. I used it to get sticker goo off my car when I got it. I also used to remove sap as well. It will however remove the wax protecting the paint. So you should rewax the car or at least the part you used goo gone on.

Just an fyi. There isn't a separate amp, it's just what's in the head unit. Also, 80w x 4 or 20w per channel is a max reading. Normal rms is around 7w or so. A better deck will have higher rms output then the factory deck.

for further reference http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

Pull the codes from the ECU. Instructions are on my site. More then likely you'll find the code is the vehicle speed sensor 2. It's located in the combination meter (dash), so you'd pretty much have to replace the whole gauge cluster if the speed sensor is bad.

I don't even know if you can buy a boot. If it's been exposed to the elements, you really need to replace the tie rod.