Adnan

Hi, I don't think that there is any correlation between an injector driver problem and leaking head gaskets. A "low voltage" code suggests that the IGBT that is driving the injector is either bad or there's a loose connection someplace. Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with that model to tell you where the drivers are located. Have you checked the Haynes manual? Regards, Adnan

Hi, Any shop worth its salt will replace the throwout bearing during clutch replacement. It is considered absolutely standard practice. Most will also replace other wear items like boots, fork pivot, etc. Even the pilot bearing and rear oil seal are often replaced since the cost to do so is negligible once the tranny's out. I would go back to the dealer and read them the riot act. It is ridiculous of them to have done the repair this way. Unbelievable (even without the $1100 price tag)! Good luck with this. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Our '96 had the same problem. Thanks to this board I realized that the bulbs were the culprit. I bought replacements from the dealer and installed them in a half hour or so. It wasn't particularly difficult; one just has to be patient with all those dashboard parts. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I think the usual diagnostics are called for, to eliminate possible culprits. Sounds like you're right about it being an ignition/timing problem. I would start by checking the plugs for tightness and spark and ignition wires for fraying. If no spark, move on to the coil pack. If the pack's okay, it may be the ignition module. The second branch is timing - check that the timing is correct on the belt. It could also be fuel related in that one injector is acting up. Regards, Adnan

Hi, A lot of good ideas have been expressed. On the subject of cam sensors, they are typically used as "single tooth" indicators, that is, their function is to tell the system whether the crank is between 0 and 360 degrees or 360 and 720 degrees. Being off a tooth or two opught not to make a difference. Depends on the design of the engine management system. A two-bank engine typically will have independent fuel rails for the injectors and independent fuel pressure regulators. If you go back to the basics of engine misfires, it is caused by one or more of fuel delivery, spark, air and timing. It appears that you have eliminated spark as a contributor. Timing is easy to check. The belt and the ECU are the possible culprits but you've checked the ECU. Have you pulled the timing covers to confirm timing? I'm guessing either a bad FPR on that bank or a check valve gone bonkers. Unlikely for a check valve to do that so FPR would be my suggestion. Easy enough to replace. Good luck! Regards, Adnan

Hi, Curious problem. If you go through the system step by step, there aren't too many parts involved: Master and slave cylinder - the master leaks so much when hot that it can't actuate the slave. Conversely, slave leaks so much when hot that it doesn't actuate the fork. This should be easy to eliminate by looking at the slave while someone presses the clutch pedal. Fork - can't imagine how this can contribute to the problem. In any case, the above visual inspection will tell you if it's moving properly. Throwout bearing - bearing gets stuck on the shaft and won't budge even if the clutch pedal is pushed. Unless the hydraulics are leaking, this is extremely unlikely. Clutch disc - the disc gets stuck to the flywheel when hot. Since there is no active preload on the disc pushing it off the flywheel, it may not be moving off, causing grinding. Depending on the car, there may be an inspection port that lets you see the disc. Again, a visual check will tell you. Pilot bearing - I don't know if the Justy has a bushing or a real bearing. When hot, the pilot could be grabbing the input shaft so even if the disc is free, the shaft is still turning with the flywheel. If I were a betting man, I'd say it's more likely to be one of the last two. Regards, Adnan

Welcome, Josh! Driving style - now that's a real Jekyll & Hyde issue. I find that I drive much more conservatively when I have a passenger in the car... In general, higher RPMs imply more engine wear. Unless, of course, you are lugging it in a low gear, in which case you are hurting the engine by not shifting. Going 95 MPH on the freeway represents a moderate load so I wouldn't be too concerned. I would worry that my brakes, suspension and steering are in top shape. Engines are most efficient at their torque peak as that represents the best breathing point. Ideally, we should all be keeping our engines there but that's not practical. I would say that shifting between 3000 and 4000 is fine (a bit higher than I would, personally) if you are good with the clutch. Winding it up once in a while is okay too and in fact helps blow out carbon buildup. My BMW 535 manual actually says that the engine should be run above 4000 for a mile or so to clean it out. A driving machine should be enjoyed, responsibly. I drive my 535 typically shifting around 2500 RPM but every now and then, the devil makes me wind her up to 4500 before shifting. That engine comes on the cam at 4400 and there is a definite "kick" at that point. Regards, Adnan

Hi, If you are mechanically inclined, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to R&R a timing belt on this car yourself. The only tricky part is getting the crank pulley off and retorquing it properly (not really that difficult). As for seals, that depends on whether you are seeing any leaks at this point. The crank seal is trivial to replace once the belt's off so I would say that one ought to go. It's also the one most prone to failure. The cam seals add a level of extra work so you'll have to determine if it's worth it. I have bought my parts from Liberty Subaru but I'll admit I didn't shop around too much. Their mail order prices seemed quite reasonable to me. If I remember right, a belt and oil seals ran me in the neighborhood of $100 or less, total. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I would like to congratulate you on a job well done. More to the point, if this was your first car repair project, you sure picked a doozy! Most folks start with something simple, like brake pads or equivalent. Keep it up! Regards, Adnan

Hi, Power loss is related, amongst other things, to incorrect sensing of the load. You've checked several of the suspects but the mass flow sensor could be one problem area. If it does not report accurately, the engine management system will cause improper fuel metering. I don't think that engine uses a manifold pressure sensor since it has a mass flow sensor, but that's another possibility. Regards, Adnan

Hi, In the past, I have used what is called "key stock", which can be found at most hardware stores. These are small pieces of square hardened steel bar stock and come in a few standard sizes. Hopefully, one will fit. Then, simply apply an open-end wrench and turn. I know of others (on non-Subaru vehicles) where the square drive of a ratchet will do the trick. You may have to improvise by using shims if the fit is not tight enough. Whatever you do, please open the filler plug first, not the drain plug. Regards, Adnan

Hi, While I'm not familiar with that particular engine, Woodruff keys are typically not shared between wheels on the same shaft. The key is usually shaped like the sector of a circle where the arced edge is inserted into the shaft. This is done so that the key can rock and line up with the slot in the wheel that gets pushed on. Otherwise, it would be over-constrained. If you look at the crankshaft closely, you should be able to see the key. Rotate it till the key is on top, if you don't have a good angle right now. That will allow you to confirm whether the key is indeed separate or not. To remove the key, first soak it in some penetrating oil like PBlaster and let it sit a couple of hours. Then the trick to dislodging it is to recognize the arc shape and make it rock back and forth by tapping it at one end and then the other (at right angles to the shaft, that is). Use a soft object, such as an aluminum rod rapped by a hammer, to impact the key. After a few raps, it should start moving and eventually come out. Resist the temptation to wedge something between the key and shaft slot, as you could damage the shaft. Hope this helps, Adnan

Hi, Check for chafed ignition wires, even if they are not too old, by unplugging and examining all around. Grab the ends of the spark plug and wiggle them, checking for loose threads or cracked insulators. The coil pack suggestion is also a good one. As for CEL, it will stay on until you use a scanner and clear it. Most likely, you'll find it to be a misfire code in a particular cylinder. Regards, Adnan

Hi, There are a few options and of course, everyone has their favorites. I use Lexol cleaner and conditioner and am fairly pleased with it. Some swear by Hide Food, for cleaning I've heard good things about saddle soap. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Valve guides and valve seals are not normally part of a HG replacement, unless there is a reason to, such as an identified problem or just preventive. I would say that the dealership is not really responsible for making that decision but they really should have asked if you wanted it done (that's a difficult one to really define). The parts list indicates that they did not replace the seals or guides. I also notice that they didn't replace the head bolts. As I'd said earlier, I would, at 66k miles, have taken a look at the valve guides and seals, if it were my car. A local shop where I had once taken a head to, called me and recommended what they call a "guide knurl" job, for very little money, since they were pulling the valves off anyway. Here's what I'd recommend: for sure, replace the valve seals. Chances are, that's the only problem. For added insurance you can either knurl the inside of the guides or replace them ($$). Have them send the head to a machine shop for this diagnostic work as dealerships are rarely qualified for this. You may get pushback on knurling as there are polarized schools of thought but in my experience with this one head and the fact that the shop was extremely reputable, knurling is a good way to go. I think you just got unlucky. Ask if there is a way to replace seals without pulling the heads (I don't know on this engine). If so, that will save you lots of money. Regards, Adnan