Adnan

Hi, I don't think that there is any correlation between an injector driver problem and leaking head gaskets. A "low voltage" code suggests that the IGBT that is driving the injector is either bad or there's a loose connection someplace. Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with that model to tell you where the drivers are located. Have you checked the Haynes manual? Regards, Adnan

Hi, Any shop worth its salt will replace the throwout bearing during clutch replacement. It is considered absolutely standard practice. Most will also replace other wear items like boots, fork pivot, etc. Even the pilot bearing and rear oil seal are often replaced since the cost to do so is negligible once the tranny's out. I would go back to the dealer and read them the riot act. It is ridiculous of them to have done the repair this way. Unbelievable (even without the $1100 price tag)! Good luck with this. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Our '96 had the same problem. Thanks to this board I realized that the bulbs were the culprit. I bought replacements from the dealer and installed them in a half hour or so. It wasn't particularly difficult; one just has to be patient with all those dashboard parts. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I think the usual diagnostics are called for, to eliminate possible culprits. Sounds like you're right about it being an ignition/timing problem. I would start by checking the plugs for tightness and spark and ignition wires for fraying. If no spark, move on to the coil pack. If the pack's okay, it may be the ignition module. The second branch is timing - check that the timing is correct on the belt. It could also be fuel related in that one injector is acting up. Regards, Adnan

Hi, A lot of good ideas have been expressed. On the subject of cam sensors, they are typically used as "single tooth" indicators, that is, their function is to tell the system whether the crank is between 0 and 360 degrees or 360 and 720 degrees. Being off a tooth or two opught not to make a difference. Depends on the design of the engine management system. A two-bank engine typically will have independent fuel rails for the injectors and independent fuel pressure regulators. If you go back to the basics of engine misfires, it is caused by one or more of fuel delivery, spark, air and timing. It appears that you have eliminated spark as a contributor. Timing is easy to check. The belt and the ECU are the possible culprits but you've checked the ECU. Have you pulled the timing covers to confirm timing? I'm guessing either a bad FPR on that bank or a check valve gone bonkers. Unlikely for a check valve to do that so FPR would be my suggestion. Easy enough to replace. Good luck! Regards, Adnan

Hi, Curious problem. If you go through the system step by step, there aren't too many parts involved: Master and slave cylinder - the master leaks so much when hot that it can't actuate the slave. Conversely, slave leaks so much when hot that it doesn't actuate the fork. This should be easy to eliminate by looking at the slave while someone presses the clutch pedal. Fork - can't imagine how this can contribute to the problem. In any case, the above visual inspection will tell you if it's moving properly. Throwout bearing - bearing gets stuck on the shaft and won't budge even if the clutch pedal is pushed. Unless the hydraulics are leaking, this is extremely unlikely. Clutch disc - the disc gets stuck to the flywheel when hot. Since there is no active preload on the disc pushing it off the flywheel, it may not be moving off, causing grinding. Depending on the car, there may be an inspection port that lets you see the disc. Again, a visual check will tell you. Pilot bearing - I don't know if the Justy has a bushing or a real bearing. When hot, the pilot could be grabbing the input shaft so even if the disc is free, the shaft is still turning with the flywheel. If I were a betting man, I'd say it's more likely to be one of the last two. Regards, Adnan

Welcome, Josh! Driving style - now that's a real Jekyll & Hyde issue. I find that I drive much more conservatively when I have a passenger in the car... In general, higher RPMs imply more engine wear. Unless, of course, you are lugging it in a low gear, in which case you are hurting the engine by not shifting. Going 95 MPH on the freeway represents a moderate load so I wouldn't be too concerned. I would worry that my brakes, suspension and steering are in top shape. Engines are most efficient at their torque peak as that represents the best breathing point. Ideally, we should all be keeping our engines there but that's not practical. I would say that shifting between 3000 and 4000 is fine (a bit higher than I would, personally) if you are good with the clutch. Winding it up once in a while is okay too and in fact helps blow out carbon buildup. My BMW 535 manual actually says that the engine should be run above 4000 for a mile or so to clean it out. A driving machine should be enjoyed, responsibly. I drive my 535 typically shifting around 2500 RPM but every now and then, the devil makes me wind her up to 4500 before shifting. That engine comes on the cam at 4400 and there is a definite "kick" at that point. Regards, Adnan

Hi, If you are mechanically inclined, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to R&R a timing belt on this car yourself. The only tricky part is getting the crank pulley off and retorquing it properly (not really that difficult). As for seals, that depends on whether you are seeing any leaks at this point. The crank seal is trivial to replace once the belt's off so I would say that one ought to go. It's also the one most prone to failure. The cam seals add a level of extra work so you'll have to determine if it's worth it. I have bought my parts from Liberty Subaru but I'll admit I didn't shop around too much. Their mail order prices seemed quite reasonable to me. If I remember right, a belt and oil seals ran me in the neighborhood of $100 or less, total. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I would like to congratulate you on a job well done. More to the point, if this was your first car repair project, you sure picked a doozy! Most folks start with something simple, like brake pads or equivalent. Keep it up! Regards, Adnan

Hi, Power loss is related, amongst other things, to incorrect sensing of the load. You've checked several of the suspects but the mass flow sensor could be one problem area. If it does not report accurately, the engine management system will cause improper fuel metering. I don't think that engine uses a manifold pressure sensor since it has a mass flow sensor, but that's another possibility. Regards, Adnan

Hi, In the past, I have used what is called "key stock", which can be found at most hardware stores. These are small pieces of square hardened steel bar stock and come in a few standard sizes. Hopefully, one will fit. Then, simply apply an open-end wrench and turn. I know of others (on non-Subaru vehicles) where the square drive of a ratchet will do the trick. You may have to improvise by using shims if the fit is not tight enough. Whatever you do, please open the filler plug first, not the drain plug. Regards, Adnan

Hi, While I'm not familiar with that particular engine, Woodruff keys are typically not shared between wheels on the same shaft. The key is usually shaped like the sector of a circle where the arced edge is inserted into the shaft. This is done so that the key can rock and line up with the slot in the wheel that gets pushed on. Otherwise, it would be over-constrained. If you look at the crankshaft closely, you should be able to see the key. Rotate it till the key is on top, if you don't have a good angle right now. That will allow you to confirm whether the key is indeed separate or not. To remove the key, first soak it in some penetrating oil like PBlaster and let it sit a couple of hours. Then the trick to dislodging it is to recognize the arc shape and make it rock back and forth by tapping it at one end and then the other (at right angles to the shaft, that is). Use a soft object, such as an aluminum rod rapped by a hammer, to impact the key. After a few raps, it should start moving and eventually come out. Resist the temptation to wedge something between the key and shaft slot, as you could damage the shaft. Hope this helps, Adnan

Hi, Check for chafed ignition wires, even if they are not too old, by unplugging and examining all around. Grab the ends of the spark plug and wiggle them, checking for loose threads or cracked insulators. The coil pack suggestion is also a good one. As for CEL, it will stay on until you use a scanner and clear it. Most likely, you'll find it to be a misfire code in a particular cylinder. Regards, Adnan

Hi, There are a few options and of course, everyone has their favorites. I use Lexol cleaner and conditioner and am fairly pleased with it. Some swear by Hide Food, for cleaning I've heard good things about saddle soap. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Valve guides and valve seals are not normally part of a HG replacement, unless there is a reason to, such as an identified problem or just preventive. I would say that the dealership is not really responsible for making that decision but they really should have asked if you wanted it done (that's a difficult one to really define). The parts list indicates that they did not replace the seals or guides. I also notice that they didn't replace the head bolts. As I'd said earlier, I would, at 66k miles, have taken a look at the valve guides and seals, if it were my car. A local shop where I had once taken a head to, called me and recommended what they call a "guide knurl" job, for very little money, since they were pulling the valves off anyway. Here's what I'd recommend: for sure, replace the valve seals. Chances are, that's the only problem. For added insurance you can either knurl the inside of the guides or replace them ($$). Have them send the head to a machine shop for this diagnostic work as dealerships are rarely qualified for this. You may get pushback on knurling as there are polarized schools of thought but in my experience with this one head and the fact that the shop was extremely reputable, knurling is a good way to go. I think you just got unlucky. Ask if there is a way to replace seals without pulling the heads (I don't know on this engine). If so, that will save you lots of money. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Yes, please do post, as we all learn something as a result. Good luck, keep everything crossed! Adnan

Hi, That engine has known leaks, starting with the crank front seal, valve cover gaskets and cam seals. You don't need to gunk/wash the engine to deal with those. Should you worry about them? That depends on how particular you are about leak-free cars. The only concern would be oil possibly finding its way onto the timing belt and weakening it. Oil choice depends on where you are. In the SF Bay Area, I used 10W-40 year-round. Check the owner's manual for that information. Regards, Adnan

Hi, The speed sensors don't really get in the way of the brake job. If you've done Japanese car brakes before, you will find things surprisingly familiar. Go for it! Regards, Adnan

Hi, A puff of oil smoke after a prolonged period of off-throttle running or idling typically means leaky valve guides or worn oil rings. This is how the mechanism works: When the throttle is closed, manifold vacuum is highest due to pumping action of the pistons. They are trying to suck in air but can't, since the throttle is closed. During such high manifold vacuum situations, oil is sucked past the valve seals or oil control rings and into the cylinders. When you open the throttle, that oil is burned off rapidly, resulting in the puff of blue smoke you are seeing. When the seals get worse, you will notice the same thing upon starting the car if it has sat for a while, such as overnight. Oil seeps past the seals under the action of gravity and burns off when you start. Very typical of high-mileage engines. If I were pulling a head, and if the engine has over 60k miles, I typically would suggest that valve seals be replaced as a routine thing since it costs so little to do whan the heads are on the bench. The seals themselves are inexpensive. Regards, Adnan

A weak alternator that lets the battery run down just enough after four days to cause the ABS circuit to notice it as an error? After a few miles, the voltage comes up enough to turn the light off? Easy enough test with a voltmeter. Also, if idling the car for a few minutes turns off the light, then it probably is unrelated to wheel temperature or objects blocking the ABS sensor. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Not that it is directly related but you may want to check the condition of the valve cover gaskets, looking for leaks. That way, you can DIY later if need be. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I'm curious about your 50k mile reference. Are the pads actually in need of replacement or are you assuming they must be worn down at this mileage? Depending on your driving style, you may not need to change them. I would suggest inspecting them first, which you may be able to do without removing the wheels. It is rare for the rear pads to wear out at this mileage, as the front ones take the load, by a large margin. If you do need to replace front pads, the procedure is essentially just like most other cars, if you've done one before. Wheel comes off, then the caliper guide bolts (the ones the caliper slides on); suspend the caliper or support it, pull off the old pads, clean everything, inspect rotors for scoring and thickness. Then press in the piston(s) to allow clearance for the new pads (remember to do only one side at a time or the opposite piston will pop out), make sure fluid doesn't overflow from the reservoir. Replace rotors if necessary. Apply anti-squeal compound on the back side of the pads, if your model calls for it. Assembly, as they say, is the reverse of disassembly. Make sure you bed in your new pads by making a dozen or so smart stops (hard but not emergency stops) from about 25 MPH and you're done. Hope this helps. Regards, Adnan

Hi, My philosophy on these things: the toil and trouble to do a job as involved as a head gasket replacement is so high that there is no point in skimping on something like head bolts. Head bolts, like any other bolt, have to stretch the right amount to do their job. Metal is not perfect and some degree of plastic deformation is inevitable. A bolt like that will not stretch the right amount and the result can be bolt failure or gasket leakage. Do you really want to do the job over again even if it's just a 10% probability of failure? Of all the bolts in a car, the ones I would never reuse, no matter what the cost, are head bolts. Period. IMHO, Adnan

Hi, If you are pretty handy and you have the tools, there is nothing particularly difficult about a timing belt replacement other than the need for care and attention to detail. There are certain things you must do "by the book" such as aligning teeth and sprockets, tightening the crank bolt to full torque, handling the tensioner properly, etc. Getting the crank bolt off may be the most unusual aspect of the job. Regards, Adnan

Hi, That does sound odd since the tightening torque is a sequence of steps with a max of 51 lbs-ft followed by a couple of angle turn specifications. I have never taken off a Subaru head so I don't know if they take a strange set after a few miles/years. It is possible that someone has used a threadlock in the past; do you know whether this engine has had its heads off before? I would consult with a professional before cranking on that breaker bar. I have found that some dealerships will actually chat with you on the phone and answer such questions readily. I can recommend Liberty Subaru as one such outfit. If they say that this is not normal, your option may be to cross your fingers and go after the most accessible bolt; in case you do shear it off it will at least be easier to E-Z out. Also, try doing this with the engine warmed up. Since it's aluminum and the bolts are not, they may loosen up. I know, you've got the valve covers off.... Good luck with this and please let us know how you fare. Regards, Adnan