Adnan

Hi, If fuel consumption is a primary concern, I'm not sure whether a Subaru ought to be your first choice, unless of course, it comes down to a space/utility/gas compromise. I'm speaking strictly from Legacy experience, though. There are more thrifty wagons out there if you don't need AWD. Regards, Adnan

Hi, IMHO, I would not mess with something as important as this. Take it to a shop that does aluminum welding, possibly a place that does heads and have them weld the mounting boss back up. Then, using the original hole, tap a fresh set of threads into it. Regards, Adnan

Very. It also has to be compressed at a slow, steady rate. Use a regular bench vise, it works well. Regards, Adnan

Hi, The same code scanner that reads out the code allows you to clear any set codes. Regards, Adnan

Jason, Unless you happen to live in terrible weather/road conditions or slog your car through deep puddles, it is rather unlikely that your calipers are stuck. Check the simple things first. Clean everything by removing all the components, as has been suggested. Make sure there is no rust on sliding parts, etc. Lubricate as necessary. One thing to keep in mind is that a swollen flex line may be preventing the pistons from returning but to have both go out is odd. Also, remember to only work on one side at a time as you may blow out a piston on the opposite side when applying pressure to one side. As with most things in life, the more common problems happen more often (how's that for a tautology?). Start simple. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Perhaps I did misread your post, sorry about that. I still need some clarification though; when you are in neutral, is your foot off the clutch pedal? If so, the input shaft is still rotating and can make noise. A throwout bearing should only make noise when the pedal is pushed in and a pilot bearing should make noise all the time. I doubt a pilot bearing will tick. Thanks, Adnan

Hi, I don't know if Subaru gearboxes have the same issue but typically, the clutch and gearbox are designed to function together in a certain way. All gearboxes have an inherent tendency to "flick" the input shaft or layshaft and this manifests itself as a ticking or clatter. If it's the mainshaft, you may feel it in the shifter. The solution to that is the spring-loaded clutch disc. Notice the fact that the center of the clutch disc is not directly coupled to the part that actually engages the flywheel; this isolation damps the flicking of the geartrain. It also, of course, allows for smoother torque transfer during take-up. On a BMW, with the M30 engine, they do this by using a dual-mass flywheel. Same idea, only much more expensive when it starts failing. What may be happening in your case is that the disc springs are weakened and therefore not damping as well as they should. One way to deal with that is to use a different gearbox fluid, such as Redline or the Porsche one, Swepco. That may be all it needs, quieting the flicking gears. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Have you tried asking the DMV? I know, it's a pain. The other option is to call up a referee station as they would (should) be extremely knowledgeable about all things smog-related. Regards, Adnan

Exactly right!

Hi, I don't believe teflon tape is a good idea on bleeder threads. Teflon tape is used for pipe threads, which have a taper to them. They seal by driving the taper into the seat and hence can use help in the form of teflon tape to both seal and to prevent binding. Bleeders use a seat at the bottom to achieve a seal and tape on the threads will do more harm than good. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Cranking the engine to pop a bolt is like playing Russian Roulette. At the very least, if you insist on this method, disconnect the appropriate fuses to make sure the engine won't start. It's one thing to say "bump the engine over" and another to guarantee that it won't fire. The thought of having a large piece of metal potentially flailing around scares me and I would never attempt it, speaking for myself. There is another way, and it's safer. I have used this technique on all the cars where I've needed to remove the crank bolt and it has worked every time: That same breaker bar (or shorter, I use a typical 18" bar) should be placed as described but instead of relying on the starter, I place a jack under it and raise it. While it does not provide the kind of impact that cranking does, it works. You do have to lock the engine, which you may not have to do with the crank technique. I guess I'm a little more conservative. Regards, Adnan

:-)

Hi, The purpose of a break-in period is to allow the piston rings to "bed". A new cylinder bore leaves the factory with a cross-hatch hone pattern on its walls. This process displaces metal ever so slightly, resulting in raised areas and slightly lowered areas. This allows oil to make its way up the walls to ensure proper ring lubrication. Bedding in allows the rings to create their own specific path by moving the honed metal; all this happens at a microscopic level. If an engine is not allowed to do this, it results in poor oil ring sealing, causing excessive oil consumption for the life of the engine. There is also some impact to compression, perhaps small. The proper driving technique is to not ony vary RPM, but also load. Remember that loading the engine causes piston thrust, making them move forward in the bore. Driving at constant load doesn't permit uniform seating. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations; drive at varying speeds but when cruising, for example, every now and then demand gentle acceleration while leaving it in top gear. Do that through your first 1k miles and you should be fine. As has been suggested, change your oil after that 1k mile interval to remove any metal particles. Regards, Adnan

Hi, If Pleasanton isn't out of your range, there is a pair of associated shops that are very good. One is called Autotron and the other is Precision Auto (I think). One specializes in Honda/Acura and the other in the rest of the Japanese lineup. Friends of mine have taken their vehicles there and come away impressed and very satisfied. I know I had spoken to them on the phone about the torque bind issue on our previous car, a '96 Legacy Outback, and I thought they were honest and knowledgeable. Regards, Adnan

Hi, You mentioned that you checked the tires for proper inflation, but did you look at the sidewalls carefully? You may have a bubble or delamination on the inside that is rubbing. Not an uncommon thing, even on quality tires. Regards, Adnan

Hi, A compression ratio that high usually indicates carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. The wide spread indicates varied amounts of buildup and is an issue in itself. There are top end decoking treatments that are supposed to be very effective at removing such deposits, cleaning the intake valves, manifold and cat. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Off-hand, it sounds like you have cracked a suspension member or damaged a suspension bushing. When you brake, the control arms on the right side allow the right wheel to "steer" outwards, which is normally controlled by the geometry. When accelerating, the same thing happens, only, the opposite way. Hopefully, you haven't cracked the top strut mount. Either way, get it checked sooner rather than later. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I'm not familiar with that car so my response should be considered as a generalism. If the compressor does not spin, it may simply be disconnected, electrically. If it is connected, get a wiring diagram and check the path. There may be some simple things that affect the status of the compressor. As for conversion to R134a, one typically has, at a minumum, to replace the high/low pressure switch and the receiver/dryer. If you think you're going to keep the car a while and there is no leak in the system, you may as well stick with R12. R12 prices have dropped recently. There is a product called Freeze12 that is supposed to be a drop-in R12 replacement. To use that you'll have to convert your line fittings but that's not difficult. Check their website for details. Regards, Adnan

Hi, Speaking from the point of view of a '96 Legacy with the 2.5 DOHC: the silicone sealant is required. It must be applied at the corners of the gasket, that is, at the sharp angles formed when, for example, it arcs up to clear the cam housing. It is also required at the location of the rubber plugs towards the rear of the head. Removing the old silicone is easy, I used a plastic scraper and it came right off. Be careful with anything metal as that aluminum is very easy to gouge. Once removed, clean the seating surfaces thoroughly, and I mean, thoroughly. If you don't, the new silicone will not adhere and you'll get leaks in short order. I used a rag with some lacquer thinner. Clean the gasket too because it may have residual plasticizer from the molding process. Make sure you use a "sensor safe" silicone sealant, available in most auto parts stores. Apply it to the head and then get the gasket into place carefully, making sure that the silicone doesn't smear. Don't use too much, either. No silicone is required on the valve cover side of the gasket. It all sounds a bit intimidating and fussy, but it really is quite simple to do. Good luck with it. Regards, Adnan

Hi, I think I know what's happening - you are installing the belt the wrong way around, that is, from the crank it should go over the passenger side sprockets. The slack should be between the first sprocket you go over (the crank) and the last (the driver's side cam). If I have understood you correctly, you are having no slack in the region where the tensioner sits and that will most definitely cause what you are describing. I hope I haven't misunderstood your description. Regards, Adnan

Hi, That's odd, it shouldn't happen. When you install the belt, are you making sure that you have taken all the slack out between the various sprockets? It sounds like you are leaving perhaps a tooth or two of slack. If the belt is run around snugly (I apply tension by hand as I do so), it all works correctly. If the dots on the belt are lined up exactly with the marks on the sprockets, there should be no slip, by definition. I would re-check the placement of these indicators. When the tensioner is released, have you confirmed that the dots no longer line up? Is that what you mean by misalignment? Regards, Adnan

Hi Ann, You have to identify the problem by checking the error codes. Your local Autozone store can loan you a code scanner for free to both read the code and clear it. Look at the lower dash fascia below and to the left of the steering wheel, approximately at knee height. You will see a small, multi-contact connector; this is your OBD-II port. The scanner will plug in there and the engine computer will tell its tale of woe. I think the code is in the format of Pxxxx, a four-digit number. Once you have that, you can look up the Haynes manual for the code, which will pinpoint the problem (if you don't have one, let me know the code and I can translate it for you). Regards, Adnan

Hi, I had a misfire code on my '96 once but after that she ran fine. I started checking and was very surprised to find that the spark plug was loose, as in just tighter than finger tight. I checked the rest and while thery weren't loose they didn't seem to be tight enough. Easy enough to check and if you're lucky, that might be all. Regards, Adnan

Hi, In theory, the timing belt could cause roughness. However, your description sounds like something else is going on. Since engine roughness depends on ignition timing, proper mixture and decent compression, take a look at all three areas. You've tried the typical ignition components but how about the cam and crank sensors? If any of these act up, the engine will have poor timing. Is it also hard to start at times? Is it rougher running when cold versus hot? Any other such details you can provide would be helpful. Have you run a compression check? Any error codes set by the computer? Regards, Adnan

Hi, One thought is that the pulsing you feel is related to engine vacuum and/or current demand on the alternator at idle. Applying brakes turns on the brake lights, which in turn puts a load on the engine. I had that happen on my 1984 Corolla as a normal thing. I just got used to it after a while. The other issue is related to vacuum. At idle you have very high manifold vacuum and it may be that the brake booster is leaking and therefore affecting the idle. The engine would be most sensitive to a vacuum leak in that state. Hope that helps, Adnan