Legacy777

The injectors...at least on the ones I've worked on, aren't exactly the easiest to get out, however you should be able to get them out without damaging the o-rings. From my experience, generic ones don't seem to fit as well.

Most aftermarket head units have a trigger for dimming the head unit when the interior lights come on. I haven't personally seen any aftermarket head units that offer a dimmer feature that works with the stock setup. I believe a lot of that has to do with the fact the amount of juice going to the lighting in the stock head unit was designed and setup by the factory to be the same as the rest of the interior lights. With an aftermarket unit....there's really no way to regulate it will be the same. If your new head unit has a dimming feature to it, yes there is a wire you can hookup to the factory setup that will dim the head unit when the interior dash lights are turned on.

Nope. The first gen legacy had a face lift for the 92 MY. So most body parts from the 90-91 MY's will not work on the 92-94 MY's.

Not that it's right....but just loosen one of the a/c lines....that'll depressurize everything. You'll still need to have a vacuum pulled on the system.

The older tcu's will shift the tranny for you at redline. The newer ones (like 2000) won't. don't know when that change happened however.

you need to make sure you're looking at the private seller portion and not the resale one from a dealer. They will be different.

That is not necessarily true. If done right, it will cool just as good. My conversion it actually cools better. I basically cleaned the system out. added specified esther oil, replaced receiver/dryer and charged the system to 3/4 of the specified r12 refrige amount and she cools very very well.

there will be a sticker on the radiator core support that will say. Plus the connectors will be a certain color, which again should tell you what you have.

manual button......from my site: Manual Button The manual button has some controversy as two what its function is. But I'm here to disavow any of those rumors. Firstly, the automatic transmission normally runs a power split of 90% front 10% rear. (for awd) This is under normal driving conditions. Secondly, the manual button ONLY works when the shift lever indicator is in the positions "3" or "2". Ok, so you're ready to hear what this thingy does. It is a very primitive version of traction control. When the shift lever is either 3 or 2, and the manual button is depressed, it will keep the transmission from going into first gear. By doing this, you have less torque, more evenly distributed power, and a less chance to slip and slide around. So to recap, when the shift lever is in the 2 position the transmission stays in 2nd gear. When the shift lever is in the 3 position the transmission chooses between 2nd and 3rd gear. If the shift lever is any other position then the two above, the manual button does absolutely positively nothing.

Really wonder if a new cap would help.....it's probably something I should look into. Also I think if your coolant level in the overflow is below the low mark the system has the possibility to suck in air which promotes the gurgling.

Right Front Left Rear Left Front Right Rear

I've got a clifford intelliguard 800 alarm with prox sensor. Clifford makes excellent alarms. Hood & trunk are pinned. Any alarm/security system you get for the early legacies will require an additional actuator to have the door locks unlock & lock with the alarm. Cost of the part isn't much, but labor to put it in is what usually gets ya.

The doors should not automatically lock. More then likely the spring behind the button has broke off of the tab and it's pressing against the lock button. So every time you open the door handle it puts more force on the spring which locks the door here's a good writeup on how to fix it. I used paper clips....been working great ever since http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html

This is very common on the first gen legacies. The key lock cylinder has an arm with a tab that connects to the lock mechanism. The arm breaks off, and then you can just spin the lock. You will need a new lock cylinder. It can be had from the dealer. Unless you want to carry two keys, you'll need to take the cylinder to a lock smith to rekey it. Then you just put it back in, and you're good to go. PS: Make sure you don't put down the window when you have the lock cylinder out. My mom did this and bent the rod going down to the door lock mechanism. It was a complete and utter nightmare to put back in.

I would check to verify both speed sensors are working properly in the trans. If you want to remove the valve body.....you could probably do so......there are different length bolts, and for this reason i highly suggest you have some form of manual to know where everything goes. You really probably won't be able to see much just by looking at it. There is a rebuild kit, they are not for the do-it-yourselfers. Trust me. I'd suggest dropping the pan, look at the oil, look and see if there's metal chunks around the magnet. you could try running some sort of flush through there....but that may make it worse.....not sure.

no prob. got it taken care of

it is acceptable for users of carfax to run vin's for others....it's in the user agreement. I was simply asking if anyone had one, and would mind running that vin. If not.....I'll run it myself. but thanks anyway:rolleyes:

sorry....I know it's slightly OT anyone have a car fax account? need to run the following VIN 4S4BJ63C2L6903987 thanks!

yeah I've used seafoam....great stuff! I've used it in the gas tank, in the injection system, and oil. The two I'd definitely recommend are the gas and injection system. When I did my injection system I just poured a little down the tube of the pcv at a time, and then followed the instructions.....turned the car off, let it sit for 10 min or so....then started it back up. The water injection method also does work.....I've used both. I'd suggest the pcv valve because it's centrally located on the intake manifold so whatever you put down will get to all cylinders.

before you say it's your fpr, get a gauge and test the pressure. You will most likely not see a change in how the car runs by just taking the vacuum off the fpr, or at least I didn't when I did mine. I ran a gauge to the fuel lines and everything was good and working the way it was supposed to.

cam seals are just the seal....pull old one out....put new one in....there's really not two parts. The rear of the pass side has an o-ring instead of seal.....but no biggy. The driver's side front does have a small extension that uses an o-ring between it and the head....but I didn't replace that on my job. cam sprockets are held on by a bolt.....loosen bolt...remove sprocket. There is a special tool to hold the sprockets......if you don't have one, you can maybe use a strap wrench or an old t-belt to keep it from moving. remove pump....clean it up....you should use permatex gray. The #2 stuff is the anearobic stuff....which may work, but I used what the document that I posted said. The stuff that was removed was similar to a silicone....not the anearobic stuff. these should help http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/oil%26water_pump_install1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/oil%26water_pump_install2.jpg

http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/subaru_sealants.gif

what car is it? if it's a first gen legacy you can scan the codes yourself....info is on my site.

it sounds like you have the right idea. In my mind....back up power is that....power to keep the ECU memory when the ignition is off.......but you may want to try and find someone that can prob those ports on their car and see if that's how it is.

So with just the black connectors connected, you get a steady blinking CEL indicating no codes? There is bound to be vacuum/pressure in the tank......I get that hiss when I get gas.....it's not a big deal. I guess try the cat stuff......