Bluroo

I have an 89 DL wagon and the U joint is worne out in the very rear, I was wondering if I could take the back half of the driveline out and drive the car like that till I can get a replacement? It has the 2 piece driveline Thanks a bunch for your help

hey all I have 89 DL EA82 5spd 4x4 wagon, did the head gasket replacement last fall put new oil pump seal in at the same time now I have a vale on the #4 piston that is rattleing bad I tried Seafoam no luck,also have a problem with it useing some water no water in oil now water leaks. What I nedd to know is 2 things. can I use Barrs leak for the water prblem I have the Bars leak for the heads not the raidiator. And what can I do for the rattle in the valve? It sounds like its tapping on the piston. Hope someone can help, its the only tansportation I got. Thanks BLUROO

Hey folks got a big problem that is driving me insane. The boy had his crank shaft pully come off goin down the road last week, turnd out the bolt broke. Well he took of the timing sproket to get the rest of the bolt out and when he did that he broke some of the ears off the sproket and stipped a few of the teeth off how I dont know but he bugard it up good. Well me (mom) got him another one and got a new timing belt and the whole nine yards. Got it all put together the way Hans and Chiltons said to do it and the dang thing still wont start. It is a disstributorless ignition.2.2. we turn the ignition and the motor turns but the car wont start so we recheck the position of all the timing marks and find that the belt has jumped anywhere from 8 to 12 teeth on the sprokets. The tensioner is good and all pullys seem to be good. any ideas as to why the dang thing keeps jumping time?

Thanks folks. I have checked the application it is the rite one allignment is rite on and the joints a tight. The reason I havnt used a junk yard one is because they want the same price as the parts store wants for a rebuilt one. Its nice to know I dont realy need to worry about it for awhile. I will next time try a different company for the cv. Thanks again.

Hey folks I got an 89DL and I replaced the left cv 8 yes 8 times since Oct 2003 I just put the 8th one in Monday and drove to town 14miles and by the time I got there the cv was making the dreaded clunkin bangin sound they make when they go bad. I have had this happen with every one of them ALL are ARI cv's. ARI and my poor parts dude are wondering why this keeps happening. The car has never been in a wreck and all the arms are in good shape along with the bearings. I cant see any wore out parts it all looks rea good. Do need a bushing for the diff mounting but thats all. Any one have any ideas why this keeps happening? I am so tiered of changing that darn thing. Thanks folks in advance

Hey folks I got a 89 Dl that the light switch keeps goin out on does any one know why and how to stop it? I had one put in 3 years ago after the original bit the dust and now the new one is goin bad also. Its the combo switch on the left of the colum Thanks

the 91 has 5 hole wheels not 4 lug

Does any one know if Buik 5 hole wheels wil fit a 91 Loyal? Son is needing to know. If not what will? Thanks folks in advance

this little bluroo is a 89 DL all original in show room shape and is supporting a proud 260,000 miles and still going strong:D It has the 1.8L with the 5 speed.

This is an update on all the touble I was having with the rear end in my suby turns out that I got sent another bad cv axle. Not enouph grease in the inner joint. These are from ARI does anyone know of a good place to buy cv's? Thanks for all of your help folks.:cool: MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I had the same problem last year. I replaced everything before finding out the radiator was bad. If you already replaced that then the waterpump is all thats left except the hoses. I also went with a 185 thermostat and that helped. Good luck.

ok I've checked the castle nuts all are at 145lbs still have the noise. Sounds just like a bad cv joint. I will jack the car up and see if anything is movin that shouldnt. I dont have any idea what eles to do. How far from S.F. do I need to move? Think the Ghostbusters will help? Any more iedeas folks?TIA

Thanks folks the castle nut may be to problem I will check it and let ya all know, thats the only thing I didnt think of. The drive line is new a month ago, u-joints went. Thanks for the info on the rear diff. I will look at that. Thanks for your help.

I put new bearings in new breaks new cvs and no noticable movement any where.Why what you think may be wrong?

oh boy where to start I have what sounds like a bad cv on the rite rear of a 89 DL wagon 4x4. It is the second one this week as the first one sounded bad on the joint next to the tire and had some play in it. I still have the same sound but no play, is it possible to get 2 bad cvs from the same place? If not what eles could it be? I have replaced everything back there including tires. Also does any one have a picture or diagram of the rear diff? The inner workings of one? I cant find one any where. I am about to go nuts trying to figure out what to do hope some one can help. Thanks