Bluroo

I have an 89 DL wagon and the U joint is worne out in the very rear, I was wondering if I could take the back half of the driveline out and drive the car like that till I can get a replacement? It has the 2 piece driveline Thanks a bunch for your help

hey all I have 89 DL EA82 5spd 4x4 wagon, did the head gasket replacement last fall put new oil pump seal in at the same time now I have a vale on the #4 piston that is rattleing bad I tried Seafoam no luck,also have a problem with it useing some water no water in oil now water leaks. What I nedd to know is 2 things. can I use Barrs leak for the water prblem I have the Bars leak for the heads not the raidiator. And what can I do for the rattle in the valve? It sounds like its tapping on the piston. Hope someone can help, its the only tansportation I got. Thanks BLUROO

Hey folks got a big problem that is driving me insane. The boy had his crank shaft pully come off goin down the road last week, turnd out the bolt broke. Well he took of the timing sproket to get the rest of the bolt out and when he did that he broke some of the ears off the sproket and stipped a few of the teeth off how I dont know but he bugard it up good. Well me (mom) got him another one and got a new timing belt and the whole nine yards. Got it all put together the way Hans and Chiltons said to do it and the dang thing still wont start. It is a disstributorless ignition.2.2. we turn the ignition and the motor turns but the car wont start so we recheck the position of all the timing marks and find that the belt has jumped anywhere from 8 to 12 teeth on the sprokets. The tensioner is good and all pullys seem to be good. any ideas as to why the dang thing keeps jumping time?

Thanks folks. I have checked the application it is the rite one allignment is rite on and the joints a tight. The reason I havnt used a junk yard one is because they want the same price as the parts store wants for a rebuilt one. Its nice to know I dont realy need to worry about it for awhile. I will next time try a different company for the cv. Thanks again.

Hey folks I got an 89DL and I replaced the left cv 8 yes 8 times since Oct 2003 I just put the 8th one in Monday and drove to town 14miles and by the time I got there the cv was making the dreaded clunkin bangin sound they make when they go bad. I have had this happen with every one of them ALL are ARI cv's. ARI and my poor parts dude are wondering why this keeps happening. The car has never been in a wreck and all the arms are in good shape along with the bearings. I cant see any wore out parts it all looks rea good. Do need a bushing for the diff mounting but thats all. Any one have any ideas why this keeps happening? I am so tiered of changing that darn thing. Thanks folks in advance

Hey folks I got a 89 Dl that the light switch keeps goin out on does any one know why and how to stop it? I had one put in 3 years ago after the original bit the dust and now the new one is goin bad also. Its the combo switch on the left of the colum Thanks

the 91 has 5 hole wheels not 4 lug

Does any one know if Buik 5 hole wheels wil fit a 91 Loyal? Son is needing to know. If not what will? Thanks folks in advance

this little bluroo is a 89 DL all original in show room shape and is supporting a proud 260,000 miles and still going strong:D It has the 1.8L with the 5 speed.

This is an update on all the touble I was having with the rear end in my suby turns out that I got sent another bad cv axle. Not enouph grease in the inner joint. These are from ARI does anyone know of a good place to buy cv's? Thanks for all of your help folks.:cool: MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I had the same problem last year. I replaced everything before finding out the radiator was bad. If you already replaced that then the waterpump is all thats left except the hoses. I also went with a 185 thermostat and that helped. Good luck.

ok I've checked the castle nuts all are at 145lbs still have the noise. Sounds just like a bad cv joint. I will jack the car up and see if anything is movin that shouldnt. I dont have any idea what eles to do. How far from S.F. do I need to move? Think the Ghostbusters will help? Any more iedeas folks?TIA

Thanks folks the castle nut may be to problem I will check it and let ya all know, thats the only thing I didnt think of. The drive line is new a month ago, u-joints went. Thanks for the info on the rear diff. I will look at that. Thanks for your help.

I put new bearings in new breaks new cvs and no noticable movement any where.Why what you think may be wrong?

oh boy where to start I have what sounds like a bad cv on the rite rear of a 89 DL wagon 4x4. It is the second one this week as the first one sounded bad on the joint next to the tire and had some play in it. I still have the same sound but no play, is it possible to get 2 bad cvs from the same place? If not what eles could it be? I have replaced everything back there including tires. Also does any one have a picture or diagram of the rear diff? The inner workings of one? I cant find one any where. I am about to go nuts trying to figure out what to do hope some one can help. Thanks

There is a place in Portland that might be able to help you called Japanees Engines 1-800-333-9889 They can get you a good deal or try the junk yards over there. Most junk yards will put a 60 to 90 day warenty on there motors. Hope this helps ya

you will also need a special socket for doing the breaks. I took a 3/8 drive 3/4" socket and welded 2 pieces of key way 3/16" long to each side of the socket to turn the pistos back in. That is one tool that you realy need if you have disk breaks on the front. Sure makes the job alot nicer:burnout:

I have been taking the whole axle out swing arm cv all at once then take it apart and put the new race in the swing arm and then the bearings on the spindle. Yes I do know how to pack them and I had enouph gease in there that alot of sqwished out when it was put back together. I do work on a bench easier that way. Who or what is SOA?Thanks for the link on the cvs good info.Does any one make these things with the brass cage or are they all plastic? Im about to just get a hole assy from the reckin yard to save money. Torq the castle nut to 145 thats what Chiltons said. At 65$ a pop it is gettin expencive.

I am going nuts. I have replaced drive line cvs(both sides) wheel bearings breaks all on the rear of my 89 DL. Now the dang right rear wheel is clackin again like a cv would when they go bad. The cv dont get warm but the spindle does. So I take out the bearings and replace them good deal nope it still does it. Question how do you change the dang things without breaking the cheap plastic cage for the needle bearings? I think thats what happend any how is that it must have broke while instaling. The spindle still gets warm. Any ideas or help will be appriciated as this will be my third time in a month of replacing this dang thing:-\

Check your u-joints in the drive line rear one. I was having the same problem, I replaced cv wheel barings tires wheels and i found out from some of the folks here that it was my drive line. The u-joints cant be changed. Have to get a drive line cause the joints are not removable. can get a used one from jy for 70 to 80 bucks. I couldnt visably see the worn joint till I got it out of the car but they were deffanately gone. hope this helps:headbang:

Hey all replaced the driveshaft and that fixed the problem I dont get al shook up any more. On closer inspection I could see the joints were worn out. Much longer and one of them would have come apart. Thank for everything.

:wave: I just found out that the u-joints are not replacable. I did call the wrecking yard and may have found one for 75$. Is this common on all Subbys?That the u-joints cant be replaced? I sure hope this takes care of the problem. Thanks for your help folks:wave:

The vibration started before the break job. I will replace the ujoints and see if that helps and let ya know.Thanks for your ideas. Thats about all I havnt replaced on it.:-)

HELP: I have an 89 dl and the rear end is vibrating like crazy from 25mph on up. I put new cvs in and new wheel bearings, new breaks and new drums. It sounds like a cv going bad but feels like a tire out of balance. so I changed tires and wheels and there is no change. The u joints seem fine, no play, any one got any ideas? I am going nuts trying to figure it out.

I have changed the belts on mine so many times I lost count. Put the fly wheel on the center mark like you had it put the drivers side cam up at the 12:00 position, do not turn the crank and put the other one at 6:00 and put the whole thing back together. I had the same problem with mine not wanting to run the first time I changed them and I had a subby feller from Bend Or tell me to put one up one down and there you go. It has worked like a charm for me every since. Good luck hope this helps:headbang: