Legacy777

It was more like a clunking noise. I drove to the airport this morning, and didn't have any problems. I'm going to order axles and replace them.....they're probably due anyway.....I'll probably get to replace the ball joints as well.

yup, just like everyone else mentioned, the blower resistor pack.

i didn't read all of the posts, but I would suggest changing the tranny fluid if it hasn't been changed recently to see if that elminates or reduces the binding.

I think you really should try and measure temps, either intake air temps, or if you really can't do that easily, get a thermal couple and stick it in the coolant lines for the intercooler radiator to check the temp of the coolant initially, and see if your temps raise a considerable amount after being on boost for a while.

checked all the tires....they all good. I couldn't reproduce the vibration today. I'll see what i can do when I go to the airport tomorrow morning. Emil, just difference in terms

It's possible, I would think it would throw a code or something. You can check the TCU codes yourself. Instructions are on my site. Without a select monitor it would be difficult to tell for sure.

Actually the term axle would be correct Yeah it's possible one of them is out of balance. I just don't know why it would do it, then go away, and now not do it any more. I'll be driving up to the airport tomorrow, so I'll see if it does it again.

just for clarification. You are talking about a legacy/liberty RS, and the intercooler radiator for the air-water intercooler correct? Are you having any temp issues currently with the for the intercooler getting too hot? If so, another radiator may help. You want to make sure it can flow enough, so it doesn't become a restriction.

I am still thinking it's the axles. Only thing else I can think of is trans or diff, and axles are much cheaper then trans or diff. I did not check the axle nut, but I tried shaking the wheel, and it was not loose.

It's very possible the auto trans is getting tired.....and yah I probably am a little harder on things then most. I mentioned cv axles because they were rebuilt, and really should have been replaced. They did click after being rebuilt and within the past months I do get clicking under acceleration and turning. It still however may not be the cause of the problem, just an additional one. It really felt/sounded like something was hitting/banging. As for driveshaft.....I don't have one, FWD. Just replaced engine mounts with sti engine mounts 2 weekends ago. It did do it at slower speeds, but was no way near as bad, and after I stopped and looked at the car and everything, I couldn't reproduce it. It is definitely speed dependant, not engine rpm dependant. It felt like a vibration (out of balance tire) as well as the noise I mentioned earlier. As mentioned I have new engine mounts, tranny mount looks fine, I have a new one I will be putting in shortly, but I don't think that is the cause. Steering rack bushings just got replaced last weekend with the whiteline poly bushings. Tires are wearing fine. I've jacked up the front and rear of the car and everything seems fine, nothing loose. Draining fluid in the diff and trans are about the only way I can think to check them.

Had something weird happen yesterday. Was on the freeway and had a pretty nasty vibration come on when I left off the accelerator. It almost felt/heard like something was clanking. When I accelerated again, it went away. It seemed to go away, because it doesn't seem to do it....however I haven't really gone on the freeway again.... Only thing I can think of is cv axle or diff/trans. The axles were rebuilt in 97......they should've been replaced......they have been making clicking under acceleration......I think they've just come to the point where all the inards are toast. Any ideas/comments?

look in your owner's manual, it should tell you.

top line at the radiator.

just put an optima yellow top in and be done with it, there's no need for a dual battery setup. If anything, I'd suggest a yellow top & higher output alternator.

top line flows to radiator, bottom line flows back to the trans.

ummm.....not really.....you might want to try and find a used one at a junkyard with a return policy that if it doesn't fix your problem, you can return it and get a full refund.

found out they have a website too http://www.kcmartin.com/

Not sure where in seattle area you're located, but in the edmonds area my mom's friend owns a tranny shop. K C Martin Automotive 21609 Highway 99 # A, Lynnwood, WA 98036 Phone: (425) 672-0920 They do good work, he put in a shift kit on my legacy.

You may want to check out http://www.nasioc.com there's a bunch more WRX owners there. There are some autos. Yeah i'd probably recommend trans cooler.

please refrain from posting in all caps. Thanks

glad to help......either the dealership is stupid....or just didn't want to help you....

The single wire sensor is for the gauge. The two wire sensor is for the ECU, and that's the one you want.

watch the language! as for the lock mechanism, if you can get right below the door lock itself, you should be able to snag the rod. It's been a while since I've been in there, so I don't recall if the rod will move without the lock assembly turning. The other lock assembly rods move diagonally through the door, so they are more difficult to get at. You may want to see about putting something between the glass and rubber trim, then stick a coat hanger in to snag the door handle. If you pull the door handle, it'll unlock & open the door.

The tach on the combination meter comes from ECU. There's a lead that is the "engine tachometer output" Assuming the combination meter is good, the wiring between the combination meter and ECU are good, and the ECU is not on the fritz, yeah I'd probably suspect the crank & cam sensors like setright said.

does the tach bouncing around coincide with the actual engine rpms?