richieroo

Well I drove it some more Mon night and it is either the tranny or the axels making a lot of noise. Makes noise in neutral as I am slowing as well......?? What to do! Rich

Seems honest enough to me. Anyone seen this on the market over here in the US as of yet? MAYBE I WILL KEEP MY TRUCK AFTER ALL! Rich

I did grind the bell housing, my son reminded me after TRYING to install the EA82 flywheel. Nah, I think it must be too close to the tunnel . Think I should DROP my crossmember about 1/2 an inch? Not sure if I can and get the nuts back on. Rich

WOW McBrat I hope that doesn't happen. What I heard intially at the start of this thread....is that there was a horrible crunching grinding sound, but I isolated that to be the driveline rubbing on my linkage which was too low. I fixed that and drove it, it shifts fine and all, but jut plain roars! I wish I could send a soundbite (haha!) The tranny is out of an 85. The only brakes for this 87 is from autozone and we had to go back to an 84 model! I am really getting tired of this ORPHAN CAR! I am gonna drive some more tonight. I didn't feel secure enough to drive it to work today! Hey ya know it may be nothin! BUT if you heard it you would question it like I do. What I need to do is get somebody else to hear it as well and see where their opinion lies! Thanks Guys! Rich

No I am using the ea82 clutch, flywheel and pressure plate against the ea81 engine. the darn thing seems like it wants to jump out of the car! I cannot explain exactly except to say maybe the top of the tranny is rubbing against the car and the vibration would be increased. STRANGE! Anyone had this SWAP problem in a Hatchback before? Rich

I drove it with and WITHOUT the driveline. It just seems too much or powerful. It seems strange, but I will run it more tomorrow and see. Rich

Well the noise is a noise that I can ony describe as very VERY powerful! Sounds rough and loud! That is my concern. Rich

Okay, here we go, I had my son walk next to me and I drove slowly and he thought that maybe the grinding is the front discs because they were low. SO I went to find the brakes at Autozone and of course they were WRONG! SO I had to get brakes for an 84 instead of my 87. I changed them and still found the noise to be there, a grinding crunching. SO I had one other idea. I took off the boot to the linkage....I took another spline from the front of another driveline and removed the front part and placed it in behind the tranny and observe it. We drove around ......no scraping crunching and grinding sounds. I watched the front part of the yoke from the opening and it wasn't turning, so I knew it was in 2wd. When we got back I noticed a great scrape mark on the driveline. We placed it back and identified it as piece of metal from the linkage that I altered. Now after reinstalling the driveline (making a new connector piece ) I have driven it around and MAN does it make a new loud sound, IS THIS NORMAL? I have heard that the tranny will make it seem like you have a big block, but this is still loud in all gears. Not grinding just loud LOUD! So there it is! Any suggestions? Rich:-\

I just looked at my differential in the back, and it says 3.900 does that mean I just ground all these gears? How can I find out the diff ratios on the tranny from an 85 GL? BTW I never hooked up the electrical, would that be a problem? Rich

I can drive it up the street and it sounds like rocks in a bucket. Crunching sounds, so I guess I got screwed on the 5 speed(*&^%$. I think the lever I put in to pull the 4wd all the way back to 2wd does not do that. I took the lever off and manually pulled the linkage back and it just sounds reallly really bad. NOW I HAVE TO FIND ANOTHER 5SPEED. Or tear ionto this and see about parts. Any body got one THAT WORKS!!?? RICH:-\

I got it from a GL 85. I assumed it was not a full time 4wd. Should the driveline to the back driveline always move? No I think. Seems like the tranny may be bad. Oh I will be pissed if it is! I just lengthened my driveline for 110.00! I have heard nothing but great things that this could be done for the hatchback and now that I have spent all the money for weeks now just to come to this point! (*&^%$ I will try to hang in there but I am pretty frusterated right now! Rich

Hi all, Well I put in the 5 speed tranny the other day and installed the rear driveline. I started it up today and tried TRIED to go up and down the street. WELL the sound is horrendously loud from the tranny. It is making terrible noises while turning. It will only drive in 4wd drive all the time. Lots of crap happening here! I noticed the driveline is in pretty tight, end to end. Should there be some slippage or allowance. I cannot do much about that except to trim the front of the driveline going into the tranny. I can trim the front of the shaft a bit. But all the noise! Anyone got any ideas. NON-DRIVE-ABLE! Rich

Look on the motor and look for the opening to find the flywheel with the "top dead center" (TDC) mark. Move the flywheel to that mark, usually with a socket on the front of the crankshaft nut in front. Then notice where your rotor on your distibutor ends up. It should be at the #1 position for spark plug #1. If it is right at the same place as the wire would be on the top of the cap of the distributor then you are okay and something else is wrong. But if it is off to the left or the right, you will need to pull the distributor out very carefully, notice which way it moves, as it will as you pull it, and then very carefully move it one movement or tooth to the direction to compensate and slide it back down. It should now be at the right mark. If it is over even farther you went the wrong way, pull it out and compensate it back the other way. Be very careful doing all this. I am no mechanic and yet I am able to do these things like this with diffculty myself at times. Get someone to help you if you still do not understand and get the right resources as well! Best of luck! Rich

I had the same problem and I was off ONE tooth on the distibutor. Rotated back or forward (I forget, ) and the car runs as smooth as silk! It had all the same symptons, pretty sure about this. Try that. Go to TDC and see if your rotor is at the #1 position. Rich

I JUST SENT IT out with our driver to a shop. I was going to get real inventive and had all this steam to do it and then I started thinking! Wow THINKNG! So I called a place that will do it for around $110.00. I measured it and I need 48 inches of new pipe. Any more will be wrong! Rich

I found the right measurement, 48 inches of NEW PIPE would put me where I need to be. I am going to make it 47.75 though because of wanting a bit of play in between the shaft and the tranny.

Hi there, I have a Hatchback and the tranny is now in. Now I want to have the rear driveline welded to the right length. But if I measure 51 inches (which is what everyone is posting here on this forum) , where is that starting from? The best I can tell is that it is the actual length of the pipe not icluding the U-joint or the shaft going into the tranny? Can someone tell me accurately where the measurement comes from and ends at? Thanks Rich

double bump!

bump for revised question

Hey guys (gals!) I need to know how some of you have made the transition to the 5 speed tranny on the cross member. How did you fit a 5 speed into a 4 speed slot! I am going to alter my crossmember for the mounts and want to know about the linkdage as well, but how did you do it? I know I can send my parts in and get them done, but prefer to do it myself. Give me your advice and suggestions and accompished stories! Thanks! Rich 05/16/05 REVISED FROM HERE: I want to know if I put in the orig mounts on the tranny, are they going to be strong enough to hold a tranny that is much MUCH heavier? Otherwise I will have to drill new holes and weld a bit. I can get the originals in there I am just concerend with weight. Rich

Wish it waas that simple! thanks for the input. I need to take off like a month and fix this thing! Rich

I was very concerend and wrote the owner and email regarding that. But they just slipped it off to another subject, as a matter of fact they were downright mad at me becasue I was upset with their service. Screw em for now, I am gonna look into this a bit more then decide waht to do in as short amount of time that I can. BTW I really do not want to drive it into the ground just to get another engine, I spent too much time getting this going and want to find a solution, either another motor or have it fixed. Rich

I think your advice is very good, and I "will have to go" to the next GOOD mechanic as you say. But I have been burning a hole in my cradit card with getting things for this Hatch. Still I will have to do something soon and then get this thing settled. I will keep you informed as things develop! thanks for your advice and yes I was thinking of drivng the h%^*( out of it! That crossed my mind as well! See ya! Rich

Thanks Raven I made a stethoscope and listened but internal sounds seemed faded out. Not sure what to listen for either. When I listen to the valvles clicking,,they click! So is that bad? I am trying to locate the knock and I really feel it is a bad rod or pushrod, but how do I know unless I tear into it and then void my warranty of 90 days (down to 60 now) on the engine! Rich

Actually last week I did that exactly, and my mechanic said it was vavles. I adjusted them AGAIN and it sounds the same to me. He said "Hey it's a Subaru, whaddaya expect?" I don't remember it sounding that bad a few years ago when I ran it everyday, but now this is the second engine installed. The first one I put in was rebuilt by a "expert", it ran great with little or no noise, but smoked the whole world up. |(Needs new rings!) (BTW my first engine ,original blew a head gasket a while back and this car has been sitting for a few years, but the engine in there now is a used Jap one with supposedly less than 50k yeh right! It was in horrible looking condition when I got it, but I put it together to make sure And now this is the result.) So here I am and frusterated because I do not know where to turn next. Actually I am gonna put in new piston rings in my other engine and possibly put it back in, if it runs better then I will see aobut getting some of my money back on the Jap one. I don't know though as the owner has already talked to me about that and they are being pretty hard nosed about making it work. $600.00 for what I consider a piece of metal........... Rich:-\