rcoaster

Thanks for the responses. Liberty Subaru was actually the site I was looking for. I really like their layout, and how they can put the part to the picture to help you find what you are looking for. -RC!

I remember reading a while back on a website for Subaru parts. I tried http://www.subaruparts.com and what they had was very limited. This website I saw had just about everything, and included picture diagrams of the parts and where they went. Does anyone know what the URL for this website is? I need to get a tensioner assembly for the A/C as the belt broke and looks like the pulley had seized (bad bearing). I'm going to take the tensioner assembly out and see what parts need to be replaced. I remember seeing on that website that I could replace only certain parts rather than the whole thing. -RC!

You're right on the button. My 96 Outback revs at 3K while at 75 mph.

I had the same problem with my 96 Outback a while back, when the colder months hit. I checked the parking brake, the fluids, and everything. All checked out okay. By removing the master cylinder cap and replacing it helped the light go out. I also noticed that the rubber thing was fully expanded, leading me to beleive that the rubber thing on the cap was pushing down on the float, causing the sensor to trip. I also noticed that there was a vaccum in the cylinder because I heard an air release when I loosened the cap. The vaccum might have been attributed to the cold weather and caused the rubber thing the expand. Now it has been the coldest it has been and the brake light hasn't come on. RC!

Is there a specific name for a tire balancing system where a roller presses against the tire to mimic rolling on a roadway to check for balance? I remember watching it on TV a while ago and forgot what it was called. Thanks! RC!

I have an amp as well, but It's not a very large amp so it fit right onto the removeable panel that covers up the jack. I simply screwed it onto the panel and ran the wires down to the cargo carpeting for a clean look. Never had a problem as it stayed there for the past 4 years I've owned the car. Whenever I needed to access the jack, I simply undid the latch at the top, flipped the panel down, and removed the jack. All the power, speaker and remote wires were at the bottom, with only the RCA input wires at the top, using 90 degree connectors for a clean look. I have a picture somewhere and I'll dig it up.

Sorry I didn't put in the details about my car (some people who have known me already know what kind of car I have... ). It's a 1996 Legacy Outback Wagon. 108K on the ticker. There are 3 Michelen XW4's, and one different brand to replace the old XW4 that had it's sidewall cut when I hit a newly installed granite curb in the city. The edge was quite sharp. While the replacement tire is a different brand, it's a take off and the tread pattern matches the XW4's. The tread depth of the replacement tire is slightly larger, but within tolerance for the AWD system. This is only temporary until I get 4 new tires for the car. The shaking didn't occur until about 3 months after I had that tire installed. The shaking started about a month ago, and as I said, it came and went. I also had my car inspected a couple of weeks ago, and it passed inspection fine, so they didn't bring up any issues. I'll retighten the lug bolts and see if that helps. Also want to mention, while the steering wheel was shaking, I let go of the wheel to see if it would drift, but it didn't drift at all.

Recently, my steering wheel started shaking at highway speeds, usually around 65 mph. The shaking comes and goes, sometimes it gets worse when I go faster, sometimes it disappears altogether by going a bit faster then slowing back down and vice versa. If the steering wheel is already shaking, then braking will make the steering wheel shake even more. Otherwise it doesn't shake as much (yes, I have slightly warped rotors). Could this be attributed to a out of balance tire or should I have my front suspension and steering checked out? RC!

If your car does have keyless entry, then you do have a "crippled" alarm system. You can just hit the "unlock" button on your keyfob. Or you can do this: Look under the dash for a black box above the fuse box. Follow the wiring from this black box until you find a button taped to the wiring harness about 6 inches from the box. While holding in this button, turn the ingition to ON, wait a second, then release the button. This should reset the system. There should be a yellow sticker next to the battery that explains this. See Russ's page for more information.

You can "break-in" the car via the old fashioned way: using the car key to unlock a door and opening it.

oooh. Sounds like you've got the torque bind issue. Does the car have a hard time moving while turning (with the steering wheel turned all the way in one direction)? If so, then it may be the torque bind problem. It requires the replacement of the Duty C Solenoid and the extension housing. I think it's about a $800 fix.

$2499 FOR A ONE YEAR SUBSCRIPTION?!?!? :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I've seen photos of it, without the cover-up's over at NASIOC's forums. Click here to see the pictures. One thing I hope the final US/CAN version will have is the twin exhaust tips as shown in the pictures! That would make the car look really sharp. -RC!

I beleive that there are those indiglo gauges available for Subaru. There was a posting a while back on this, and I discovered that they were available for my 96 Outback! I don't know if this has been archived, or disappeared off the deep end..