rcoaster

You don't have to open a bleeder screw, just unscrew the master cylinder resivoir. Just keep an eye on the resivoir so it doesn't overflow when you press the piston back in. Use a C-clamp and one of the pads to press the piston back in. I use a special tool you can get at any auto parts store to press it back in. The rears are single piston while the fronts are double piston. They're basically the same. A c-clamp and the old pad would work fine pressing in the double pistons.

The front reminds me of a Ford Escape.. :-\ As for the "puddle lights", the 2006 Outbacks are getting them standard as well. You don't have to worry about smashing them up. They're mounted on the door on the inside, usually underneath the armrest. They light up when you open the door.

the torque split numbers seems wrong. 41F/49R ? Where did the 10% go?

I stopped by the dealer while it was closed to take a closer look. Yes, the exterior didn't do it for me. However, it was the interior that really did it for me. Now if they would take the interior design and put it in the Outback instead... :-p

Either that, or you didn't hold it long enough so that the wiper cam deactivates the "park" switch. Try this, pull on the stalk, and hold it until the wipers are 1/4 of the way up and let go. Does it continue on for one sweep and stop? If it does, then just pull and hold for a second before letting go instead of just tapping it. The same thing happens on my 96 Outback, so the pull and hold for a second sequence always works. RCoaster

Nope. That won't work. The 96 uses a Code Alarm system, while your 01 uses an Apline, I beleive. Just look under the dash for a button, near the fuse panel. Hold in this button while turning the ingition key to ON. That should disable the alarm. RCoaster.

I know what's wrong with it! It' has been mirror imaged!

Nothing wrong with the picture. The website links to a Russian website. I assume that Russian cars are all RH drive. Besides, the european Subaru's doesn't carry the "star" badge, they carry something different.

No you cannot remove the drive shaft. The AWD system always sends power to the rear wheels. Besides, if you really don't need AWD in South Texas, why did you get a Subaru in the first place? Get a front wheel drive car.

Hmmm.. It could be a relay going bad causing the compressor to cut out. Another thing to check is the pressure switch. That could be going bad, thinking that there's no freon in the system and causing the A/C to cut out to prevent damage to the system.

That's normal. My 96 Outback does exactly the same. I usually drive until the low fuel light comes on and then fill up. I get about 13-14 gallons at fill up. It's the "oops factor" that Subaru put in the fuel gauge as well as the speedo. 150-170 miles out of 8 gallons sounds about right. I usually go about 230-240 miles on a tankful before the low gas light comes on. The gauge seems to linger in "E" for a while before the light comes on.

GO FOR IT!!! 250 hp of turbo fun!!!!!

That's where you shove the seat belt buckles when flipping the seat bottom up before flipping the backrests down. My 96 has it as well. It functions as a holder when you flip the seat bottom down and you don't have to fish around for the buckles and pull them out. :-\

Ah yes. The Haynes manual used a 1998 Outback to take the pictures. If you look at the back cover, there's a picture of the mechanic and one of the photographers working on the car and the blurb mentioned that it was a 1998 Outback. Looks like Subaru made some revisions to the Outback every year between 95-99. In regard to the headlights, if the lens is clear and smooth and you can see the diamond reflector, it is 2 peice; the 1 peice headlight/turnsignal combo has stripes in it to focus the beam.

A relay makes a "click". It's like the clicking noise you hear when your turn signal is flashing. Have you tried removing everything from your glove compartment to see if the noise goes away?

Sorry to hear about yourjob loss... Back to the knock sensor installation.. You don't have to remove the intake manifold. However, you DO have to drain some coolant as the thread goes into a coolant passage. RC!

I have a Pioneer head unit in my 96 Outback (model DEH-7600MP). What I did was buy a adaptor kit that plugs directly into the factory harness and has bare ends on the other end. I wired it up to the harness that came with the radio. Now the radio is simple plug and play. If I decide to get another car and want to put the factory radio back in, I simply disconnect the harness and plug the factory radio back in. It's quite simple. I got the adaptor from Best Buy for 12 bucks and the wires are color coded the same way the aftermarket radio harness is, so it's just a matter of matching up the colors. RC!

I'm not sure of the cost but I do know it's easy to replace. The inhibitor switch is actually a tranny selector switch that tells the computer what position the lever is in. Looking over my Haynes manual, it appears there's a section on about adjusting the switch. It could be just as simple as the switch being out of adjustment. You just have to check for continuity between some terminals for Park and Reverse then tighten it down. For Park, Check continuity between pins 3 (Y) and 4 (, and pins 11 (BW) and 12 (BY). For Reverse, check pins 2 (Br) and 4, as well as pins 9 (RW) and 10 (BW). Here's the layout of the pins: __________=====_________| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 |-------------------------| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10| 11| 12|------------------------- This is for later models, the earlier models had this layout: 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 12 11 10 9 RC!

that's 2 steps too many. You can just pop off the shifter bezel (the black plastic trim around the shifter indicator to access the hole on 95-99 Legacies and Outbacks. I had posted some pictures on the board a while back showing how. On 2000 and newer, there's a little door that you flip open to access the interlock release. To disengage, just insert a phillips screwdriver down the hole and press it down. [edit-found the pictures, here they are:] Pry out the trim with your screwdriver... Then insert the screwdriver into the hole to disengage the shifter. Besides, you don't even have to have the car running to disengage the shifter. Just turn the key to "ON", and press the brake, and then shift it out of park. Just be sure to set the parking brake so the car won't go anywhere while trying to start the car in neutral.

When you press down, you will notice that there are two clicks in the switch. The first click opens the window until you release the button. The second click opens the window all the way.

This might sound silly, but... Have you tried lowering the seat?

BTW, the XT uses direct ingition, therefore has a coil for each plug, mounted on the valve covers. You'll have to remove the coil pack before accessing the plug. :-\

The cooling fans on the radiator might be the culprit. Since the car is moving, air is moving through the radiator and keeping the temp under control. Since you were stopped, there wasn't any air moving through the radiator, and therefore, the engine heated up. Check everything associated with the cooling fans. Another thing to check is to turn on the air conditioner. Does the temp fall once you turn on the A/C? That means the fans are working, and you should check the temp sensor or relay that kicks them on when the temp rises.

Actually, there were two different revisions. the early revision had the headlamp assembly and the turn signal assembly as one unit. The second revision has the headlamp assembly and the turn signal assembly as two separate units. My 96 Outback has the first revision. I'm not sure about the 97, but you might want to check to see if the headlamp and the turnsignal are a separate unit or combined as a single unit.