attym

running it out? I can see that. good point. I would like to see that light just to know if it works.

Gas gauge is off. Its on E around 250 miles and it's getting 24 MPG. I drove for two days with it below E hoping that light would come on. I chickened out this morning and filled it up. I still had 3.5 gallons left. I'm going to bring a gallon of gas with me when it gets down to 300 miles and see that light!

Thanks! It was really dirty when I got it. I literally had to degrease it to get the black off of it. After a few washes, a coat of wax and a few personal touches, I'm digging it. I'll take 7-10, but I've haven't stayed in a car longer than 2 years. I get antsy and move on...perhaps to a 2000+

Legacy L I got for $1500. 130k, just installed my radio and roof rack and I'm going to drive it into the ground. I might have to do a clutch in the near future. Its a breath of fresh air from commuting in my Explorer by myself.

if its similar to my 96 legacy, this is what i did. To remove the factory deck, you ahve to remove four screws. Two that you can access when you open the cup holders and two that you'll need a small stubby screwdriver when you take out the ashtray or in my 96's case, the storage compartment. That should allow you to work out the trim that covers the factory radio and storage compartmnmet beneth it. I believe the stock radio was held in by six screws. Four on the brackets corners and two in the middle about half way back. (I never got these two back in and if you can't get them in, don't worry about it, its more than stable with just the four) Once you get them all out, you should be able to pull the radio and storage out. disconnect the wires (intenna and power/speaker harness). Once its out, you'll notice four screws holding the radio in place, two on each side. remove those and the radio should come out. Your new radio should fit right in here and bolt up to those four screws. You'll have to remove any trim ring on the front of the radio, if there is one, it shuld just click off with little effort. For the wiring, you'll need a harness (I don't recomend cutting the factory harness and splicing it into the new radio. I've done it, but you leave yourself stuff if you want to put the old radio back in. fort $15, the harness is well worth it) Just match up the color coded wires on the new radio to the harness, plug it into the car and you should be ready to go. This was one of the tightest installs I've done since it bolted right up, it looks like it belongs there. Hopefully this will apply to your 93. This was from memory so I might have missed a few details, but thats the general idea.

I'm sure it's a nice car, but you'd be over paying. I'm surprised they'd let a car sit on the lot for so long.

It didn't seem to move much at all. I returned the cable to basically its original position this morning. The pedal feels easier to push now rather than much closer to the top. If its in neutral (clutch engaged or not engaged), there is a rattle when reved. I also notice a similar rattle when I shift gears or push in the clutch while driving. I'll live with it for the time being, I bought the car thinking I'd have to do a clutch anyways. If I'm going to go in there, I'll do it all.

I'd keep on them and aslo call Subaru of america. The squeeky wheel gets greased.

The fork lever was hard to move if at all by hand.

The bearing always sort of made a "bad cable" sound when i pushed it in. The fork was fine two days ago when i tightened the cable, I'll re-check it to see if its loose now. I'll back the cabel down to where I had it or maybe just mention it to the guy who would be doing my clutch and have him adjust it.

I just tried to figure out my MPG. I was on E and only went 245 miles, I was a little concerned. I only was able to put 10.3 gallons back in. Either my gas gauge is off or they're giving me a 5.6 gallon reserve. I'm tempted to drive until i see the gas light which i've never seen besides my owners manual.

Would the car still drive and shift well? It shifts and drives fine, no slip at all, smooth shifting. Would you recomend loosening up the cable again?

I have a 96 Legacy L 2.2 MT The car shifts fines, but it was maiing a cricket sound when i was driving. The littlest touch to the clutch pedal would stop it. I could just rest my pinky on it and it would stop. I decided to go under the hood and tighten the cable just a few turns. I let off the lock nut and adjusted the other nut maybe 5-10 turns and it stopped, I tightened it all back up and thought i solved the cricket noise... But now when I rev the engine, it has a rattling noise both with the clutch in when out. I think it stops when the clucth is sort of half way, but i could be wrong. It doesn't rattle at idle.I'm hoping its the throw out bearing, I don't know. Should i adjust back the cable so if I have a new clutch put in it won't do the same thing after a few hundred miles. Did adjusting the cable cause the throw out bearing to get worse? does it sound like a throw out bearing? Its a rattle when reved.

I believe its .044 (double check)

I'm looking for a picture of this setup. I'm putting them on a 96 legacy L sedan and am curious to see a picture.

I'm new here, but I'm finding out that subes like to leak, but there is a lot of knowledge of how to fix them around here. Its common I guess.

I admit that driving an accord for a few years can jade you on what is really needed for car repairs. The justification of its less to fix than to make a payment is a good justification, it works out to be far less. I'm just saying that if my subaru started to take on a few $500 or $1000 bills, I'd quickly put a for sale sign on it. $200 here and there is one thing $500 and $1000, I just don't have the cake to float that kind of leaky ship.

I think i know what you're talking about. The srping attaches to the clutch cable? it looks a little worn, or almost as if its slipping off the cable. I'll investigate.

The clutch isn't slipping. The noise goes away when I push the clutch in or even just hardly touch the pedal. When I'm shifting, it doesn't make the noise, only when I'm not touching the pedal. Everything I've read about a bad TO bearing is that it makes the noise when the clutch pedal is down. I'm not doubting it, just trying to figure it out becasue its the opposite of what I've read and what i think you're describing. It shift and drives fine. No problem getting into gear, no slippage only a little cold studder.

I don't see how putting over $6000 into a car is reasonable? I've had a 96 accord and I've done front brakes, a battery and a radiator and thats. Even assuming thats on the great side of things, $6000 in 6 years sounds like a vehicles that requires a lot of work, not one that I'd say is "reliable" Sorry, it just seems like a lot more money than I'd be willing to spend.

I'm about two years too late on this thread, but the same thing happens to me as does to fill. If i even slightly touch the pedal (just the slightest bit) the chirping goes away. The car shifts fine, doesn't slip, only complaint is the cold shudder, but I'm noit convinced that that will go away with a new clutch. Is there a way to maybe tighten the clutch cable a slight bit to act like my foot is just touching the pedal. The slight amount I have to touch the pedal to make it go away, I know couldn't be engaging the clutch. It hardly even takes tyhe slack out of the pedal.

I didn't have to remove the center console, just the trim starting where the cup holder is and two other screws where you remove the ashtray (or in my case no ash tray just a storage tray) I had to use a stubby philips to get it out. It wa shard to get the trim back in with the power outlet, I bet would goi in easier with the center console out, but I'd rather muscle it in than remove all that. The radio install was a piece of cake, no kit needed. I removed the factory radio by undoing the four philips screws, two on each side of the radio. The new radio fit right in to that bracket and the four screws lined up perfectly. Now wire it up using a wiring harness or vut them all together if you feel like doing it that way, i wouldn't advise it to avoid buying a nice $15 harness.

I'll try the 5w30, I need an oil change and i have a small leak... I hate bandaids, but if it works, it works.

My 96 legacy has what seems to be a small oil leak (a few drops on the driveway after a night of sitting) and the slight smell of burning oil when i get out after a drive, never during the drive. I haven't really seen where its coming from, but it looked at first glance that it was coming from the right side of the engine, perhaps underneath... Should i gunk and steam it? (I always get nervous I'm going to presure wash the wrong thing) Should I just keep and eye on it. After two days it almost seems the oil went up (it was under teh line now its over the line). What viscosity is best to use? 5w30? 10w30, 10w40? Thanks for all of these questions being answered.

I think I have to replace the throw out bearing as well, however, mine makes the whirling, cricket noise when its engaged and the slightest touch of the clutch pedal makes it stop... I mean ever so slight. Makes me think maybe I just need to adjust the pedal or something.