markjs

Alternator is charging just fine.

5spd FWD.

Whenever I accelerate uphill or around a corner my lights flicker.....Not severe and they don't go out, and further there is no detectable change in the stereo when this occurs......Just lights....The only thing that makes any sense to me is a loose ground somewhere or something to do with the level of the electrolyte in the battery itself.

I have an '84 GL Wagon that has developed a ticking noise in the passenger side of the engine. If it were a Chevy I would suspect a partially collapsed lifter or maladjusted rocker arm, but being a Suby I have no idea for sure. It seems to dissappear into the other engine noise when you rev the engine so I suspect it's not a rod knock or anything........Could I simply need to adjust my valves? If so is it hard to do? Does it require valve cover gaskets?

I have an '84 GL Wagon with a Carter-Weber carb (therin probably lies the problem) and the choke started sticking shut so I had to rip the spring off in a pinch to keep her running for the night. Trouble is, now the spring is destroyed and there is no such thing as a rebuild kit for this carb. Please don't tell me to get a Hitatchi or a Weber. The car is a beater, soon to be replaced, and I have no money to speak of so changing carbs when other than being damn hard to start, this one is working fine, would be senseless. Can I find some sort of universal manual choke cable assembly that I can make fit?

As I see it it seems that the parts I am foggey on are the rear diff, what clutch and flywheel to use, and getting that lever though the floor and console.....Thanks in advance

So what you mean is not "yes except...." but rather "no, because...."

Can a 4WD EA81 Tranny fit in place of the FWD tranny, and which clutch and flywheel needs to be used? Can that tranny fit and run with no rear driveshaft attatched?

Well that's just weird! My car lacks an O2 sensor and does not even have a hole to mount one in, yet, there are two vaccum switches for it and the ECS light shows the code for O2 sensor.....Well I prolly needn't wonder.

No this store carries a good selection of Metrics and this bolt is very clearly Metric. It's same length as the one that came out (and was subsequenly lost) and it has the same type of lock washer on it........Perhaps I forgot to torque the bolts down I wonder....? I see NO reason why replacement bolts should not work, The ONLY possible differences are that it takes a 19mm wrench instead of the 17 tho old bolt took (I think it was 17). Took a mid post break to go check the bolts (the car has seen 3 days and 350 miles of HARD use on the replacement bolts, and they show no sign of loosening)....Knowing me I prolly forgot to torque them LOL *heavy sigh of relief*. Maybe I smoked too much wacky tobaccy that day LOL

Sorry, it's an '84 GL Wagon FWD, 1800CC Carter/Weber carb, 5 speed manual. I didn't get much sleep LOL

Well I just found out my nGL weighs in at around 2200LBs and the 85er is about 3400LBs, so that right there is considerable!

I got two vaccum switches up near the firewall on the passenger side that used to be connected. Car runs fine without them, but someone told me that on of them helps the timing advance under certain conditions....... I'd like to know what they are for, and what they should be connected to, if anything....?

Actually that's not all technically correct, the Carter/Weber is held on by one stud in the back and one bolt that goes in from underneath (a MAJOR *************** to loosen and tighten because it took me over an hour to get that one bolt off and back on). The Carter/Weber also has four torx head screws that hold it to the adapter plate that bolts to the engine, and I know from experience that these tend to back out and leave the carb flopping around loose on the manifold. The Hitatchi is held on by four studs and nuts. The easiest way to tell the difference is the throttle cable will be routed on the left side of the carb (driver's side) on the Carter/Weber and on the passenger side on the Hitatchi (You may not even have to remove the air cleaner top to see this). Most likely you have a Hitatchi, and if so, be glad because I hear bad things about the Carter/Weber, though aside from the loosening screws I have had little trouble with it.P.S. I was told by a Subaru mechanic that the Carter/Weber only went on 83's and 84's, and then only rarely and mostly on FWD models (like Mr. Suby my little engine that could!), so I stongly suspect yours is Hitatchi.

I been having this weird clunking sound while braking and it had been getting worse, so I jacked her up put it on a jackstand and had a look....lo and behold the damn bolts that hold the caliper bracket (the thing that holds the pads and bolts to the knuckle), had backed out. The top one was gone and number two was on its way out. They were already replacement bolts from the local hardware store and that may be the problem? I torqued em good and installed frsh lockwashers but I fail to see what more I can do, and I fear that this isn't the last time I'll have this problem. It is on the drivers side if that matters. Edit: The replacement bolts are those gold colored heat treated hard ones, maybe they need to be softer? I am without a clue.....

So I've been over this before but it's still bothering me and I figured a new way of describing it that may make it easier to understand. I hear over and over that the EA82 is more powerful than the EA81, but I have an 84 GL Wagon (FWD) with an EA81 and my friend has an 85 GL Wagon (4WD) with EA82. I swear the EA81 has a LOT more balls and that's even with a 1bbl Carter/Weber. The best way I can descibe it is that in 5th gear going up this one long hill on the highway the EA81 can hold it's speed and even accelerate (a little not much) and in 4th it's piece of cake......The EA82 however, will not hold its speed on the same hill in 5th gear, you HAVE to shift down to 4th and even then it feels like it has less (very slightly) to give than the EA81 does when the EA81 is in 5th. The EA81 spins approximately 2500 RPM at 50 or so MPH where the EA82 does 3K+ at similar speeds. So after hearing that, is that "normal" for a carbed EA82? Could timing belt tension cause this issue? Thanks in advance!

I have one and other than getting it to idle consistantly, not being able to get a throttle cable, and the fact that it backs out it's own screws and will have itself loose on the manifold within one week, I have no serious problems with it. Aside from a little more backfiring durning deceleration and an uneven idle, there is no difference in how it runs with the carb attached by nothing more than gravity and screws that keep it from going side to side. A touch of loctite fixed that and my idle is good enough for government purposes....In any case I have heard nothing but bad about the 1bbl and I just don't get it. What is the real problem with the carb? BTW I am getting roughly 30, city, 25, town, and 22, on my route (Newspaper delivery).

Oh BTW my carb is 1bbl while the Hitachis I have seen are all 2bbl, if that matters.....

I've got an '84 GL Wagon FWD with a Weber/Carter style carb. According to my local auto parts store ALL Subies are Hitatchi, and all throttle cables are the same for 81-84. They claim there is no cable made for the Weber carb (the Hitatchi cable attatches to the passenger side of the carb whereas mine is on the driver side, and is a different length....I've been using a junkyard cable from a Hitatchi carb, I had to break the shielding on the cable and liberally use electrical tape to jury rig a solution, but I don't feel safe using it long term. Can anyone help?

Just got done "Loctiting" and will see in a week or so if it took, damn thing needed the idle reduced and now it idles smooth no vroom...putt...putt....putt....vroom!

On an EA82? The book isn't specific on if there is any way to do it without removing the timing belt covers. I'd certainly love to avoid that if at all possible.

I VERY much prefer the EA81 from my limited experience with the EA82. I like the way it's powered and how it has power at low RPMs and I like the bulletproof nature of the pushrod "OHV" engine over the somewhat frail and maintainance intensive by comparison to the more popular "OHC".....Just my two cents but if you'd read any of my other posts you'd have guessed as much.

So I have a weber/carter type carb on my EA81 and it has this FUNKY way of attatching, I believe it's 2 nuts and then the carb is secured to that piece by several allen screws. The allen screws inevitably back out on me and then I start idling funny. Seems to run fine at speed as funny as that is.... What can I do? Loctite?

Nevermind I am incorrect it is a Hitachi.

Is it possible (on a weber or carter, as my carb doesn't seem as complex as the hitachi), to just take the top off with the carb installed and give all the jets a good carb-cleaner hosedown?