markjs

I have hill holder on my '84 GL FWD if you have two cables on the clutch arm you have hill holder.

I got an 84 1800 EA81 and when I time it to the spec (8 degrees btdc), it doesnt like it. I have the timing advanced a bit and my gas mileage is WAY better too. Also when timed somewhat advanced the vaccuum needle stays fairly steady but if I time to spec the needle jumps all over the place, so I timed it to just under the max vaccum I could get and she seems fine. I can't imagine that it isn't firing on all four because it has better power than my friends EA82. What gives?

nobody?

My 1984 EA81 recently started dying at stops. I inspected the carb to find it loose so I tightened it back up and still same problem. For a while I used the screw on the solenoid that brings the RPMs down slowly to tighten it to a point where it would idle, but that thing doesn't remain constant so I went to look for an idle screw and find none! Then I took and tightened the throtlle cable to see if then it would hold an idle, and that didn't even work. I did find a place on the throttle linkage on the left side of the carb where there are two threaded holes and it looked like the place for the idle screw but there was no backstop for the screw so when I put a screw in the hole the screw got caught on the manifold holding the throttle wide open. What I had to do eventually is bend that tang on the end of the throttle linkage and bend it over so that the screw would contact the manifold squarely and then I adjusted the idle and so far so good. My question really is, is there supposed to be an idle screw? Where would it be (I believe I have a carter 1bbl but cant say for sure)? Also why would it idle fine and not die at stops then all of a sudden die every time you lay off the throttle?

According to the Haynes manual they'll need to be pressed out at a machine shop.

I have an EA81 and my car has more power. Is there a problem with his EA82 perhaps? I notice the EA82 is geared a bit lower, for example if I am cuising at 55 in my EA81 I am turning just over 2K RPM (2300 perhaps). When I do the same in his EA82 its turning 2500-2800 RPM. His also seems to have zero guts til you hit 3K.

My EA81 Front Wheel Drive, 1984 GL Wagon has developed an issue. When its relatively cold it tends to die after you come to a quick stop (clutch disengaged and coasting in neutral). As I deliver papers for a living it seems that stopping and going at the paper tubes is difficult until the car is warm. We did notice that the carb had shaken loose and we tightened it down, so it runs much better but still stalls at stops. Another thing is I can find nothing for idle adjustment.

I had just that problem in an 84 GL Wagon and for me it was a loose bolt in the tranny crossmember. It was HORRIBLE! reverberated through the frame and you could feel it in the floor. I thought ************ was hitting the fan.....

Mine gets uncomfortable to hold your hand on? It gets a bit hotter than it's larger mounting even. I also think I hear an sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss sound from the bearings. How long have I got doc?

SOLVED! It was just a loose bolt in the crossmember

I did pretty good as it cost me $60 to repair mine.... Don't get me wrong I love Subys but I was referring to American classics

I fell asleep at the wheel and went into a ditch. The right side wheel hit a corner of the pavement and was pushed back about 6 inches bending the lower control arm and the short stabilizer bar that attatches to it. I had been told these cars are tough and I believe it about their engines, but if it had been an American car I'd never have had to replace the parts.

Where is this bolt by the shifter? See what it does is it clunks only when you are accelerating (just starting to let the clutch grab) in reverse or releasing the clutch when there will be reverse torque applied (i.e. When you shift from first to second, that moment when the road pushes against the engine compression when you take your foot off the gas in first). It's a dull clunk and it can be felt in the floor of the car though the shifter itself shows the extreme of normal movement when the problem occurs, it can not be felt in the shifte if you rest your hand on it when it happens. Maybe its more halfway between a clunk and a pop.

Is it the unit in the radiator? I changed it and now my car reads differently on the temp guage? Fan works again though.

Sometimes when I shift, particularly from first to second, my tansmission will make a "clunk" noise as it seems to hit the frame. I just had a guy change the clutch ('84 GL Wagon FWD 1800 EA81) and there was nothing visibly wrong with the way it mounts that he can see. ???

I have a guy who does this kind of stuff on the cheap, and I think it's too big of a job for me, as I have never removed an engine or tranny before. My questions are; how much should I pay for the clutch kit? Do I really need to resurface the flywheel? What is the worst case scenario if I do not resurface it? How much should I expect to pay for resurfacing?

I have heard that it is, but that seems difficult to believe. Please someone tell me the minimum amount of work this job could possibly be, if it's possible could someone do a step by step even?

Nevermind I found a fix, but it's complicated to explain. I'll say this much.....L bracket

Well being as I have no access to welding equiptment, I guess I have to say that that too is not a solution that works for me right now.

Yes, see you're telling me to fix it right. I just told you if I do it will only break again. What I need is an easier more permanent fix.

The front of the seat by the door on the drivers side has busted. How can this be rigged without buying a new seat that will eventually do this too.

No squeal and or play at all with the castle nut tight. Phew! That one was close!

The castle nut was loose! But the problem I think is not the bearing so much as that I have just changed that drive axle and I think I did not get it tight the first time. I have to go test drive now and will let you know. Hopefully no real amount of dirt made its way up there.....

Well my wheel sqeals when its cold and turning slightly, not so much when it's been running a while, or driving in a straight line. So I jack up the car on both sides one at a time and I grab the top of the tire and pull it outwards from the car. On the squeaky side there is a minute amount of play in the wheel and it moves just slightly and on the good side there is zero play at all. So am I looking at a bad wheel bearing or ball joint or both? How unsafe is it to drive this way for just a short while (a few hundred miles)?

Nothing?