sketron13

I started getting the knock sensor malf. code about every 1,000 miles or so after clearing the code. A few thousand miles past that and it started to stay on, the light only going off every once in a while. By that time my mileage had decreased from 29-30 mpg highway to about 24-25. I also noticed a distinct miss, sometimes at half-throttle, sometimes at full throttle. Always when the a/c was on. After about 30,000 miles w/ a knock sensor code, I finally replaced it. Man the difference was night and day! You can definitely feel it retard the timing a few seconds before that light comes on.

Looked it up, that code is: Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Rich From first glance it sounds like that fuel press. reg. could definitely be at fault. I'd look at that service bulletin again as that's specifically for that car.

Real easy to DIY. It's right on top of the engine, on the driver's side behind/under the intake manifold. Just need a ratchet and about 12" extension.

Helicoil and you'll never have to worry about it again. Of course the time I did that, I just went up a bolt size. Didn't help when I piled it up in the ditch though...

I just had to change my rack myself on my 98 Legacy Brighton. Rolled around in the parking lot for a while, but it had to be done. My rack poured fluid (bad seals) and had a bad inner tie rod. Got pretty bad by 210,000 miles. That's hydraulics for ya.

Try a new fuel filter... or any other number of tune-up items.

So I need some power steering lines for a 98 legacy, which are $90 at the dealer because no j/y in Atlanta has Subarus. 91-94 legacies use a flare nut and fitting, while mine uses a banjo bolt. Will a 91-94 power steering pump bolt to my 98 block? Any help is appreciated!

An inverter won't use power until something needs it (something plugged in). Sound to me like a shorted inverter or a bad cig lighter connection.

Okay this thread explained the knock sensor question to me also. (Too lazy to search...)

I would assume set a voltmeter on AC, put red on the sensor lead and black on ground while the engine is ran. I can't remember exactly but I believe it should be under 1 volt. Anyone?

Sorry, I'm needing the front links.

My endlinks are shot and I can't find any reasonably priced ones for a legacy. found a set of Whiteline endlinks for an Impreza that look like they would fit. Anybody know if these will fit?

98 Legacy can use newer parts? It's the 95-98 or whatever body style.

Hey, got a 98 Legacy Brighton clunking and I need to change out most of the bushings and the front stabilizer endlinks. I'm noticing everyone only makes the polyurethane bushings and performance endlinks for imprezas and newer legacy. Anybody know if any of these will interchange to my Legacy?

Synthetic oil actually does break down, just slower than dino oil. I run Castrol Syntec 10-30, about 8-10k between changes. 98 Legacy has 205,000 miles and runs strong as new. Just use a good filter...

For the weight, they would have to switch to using alot of composites. As for the companies all over it, read those articles and you will see that they're already trying it extensively in China. I just think everyone in this country was thinking in the electric hybrid box until now. One more advantage over batteries though, high-pressure hydraulic fluid called skydrol is organic and not toxic. They say it will eat through the soles of your shoes, but it's safe to drink (used in airplanes). Show me a lead-acid, ni-cad, or lithium ion battery that can claim that!

Batteries = heavy + expensive Plus you have to plug in the hybrids that get over 50mpg. And what car over 15 yrs doesn't have electrical problems, or components going out, etc. I've worked around hydraulic machinery older than I am running 20 hours a day and they usually run flawless. Hell, you could maybe even figure out a way to retrofit existing gasoline or diesel engines with some sort of a helper launch assist pump/motor system like the one article talks about doing. There's definitely money to be made from this from someone...

The one article said it could be done with $600 in over-the-counter parts. It completely makes sense, I think I'd put a hydraulic motor/pump at each wheel to capture all braking energy possible, and one at the small engine with a freewheeling unit. Interconnect all with the accumulator, and you've got it. Think about this: 4x4 Mid-engine/hydraulic hybrid justy pushin 50cc, maybe 10 or 15 horses, gettin 75mpg. It's going to happen!

So has anybody ever heard of this? Apparently it was thought up in the 1920's or 30's and a guy tried it successfully in the 70's. Now someone is using a 14hp lawmower engine in a 2,000lb car, 0-60 in 8 sec, 75 mpg!!! They're using this stuff in big vehicles too, a Launch Assist system I think they call it. This would be an excellent idea for offroading as it provides loads of torque, and can be recharged when braking, and can be shut off once the hydr. pressure is built up. I'm in school to get my A/P mechanics license, and I'm going to try to talk them into letting us build a hydraulic hybrid subaru, maybe from a justy or hatch? What do you guys think? Here's some links to the articles about it: http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/1978_March_April/This_Car_Travels_75_Miles_on_a_Single_Gallon_of_Gasoline_ http://www.greencarcongress.com/2006/03/epa_and_univ_of.html