Nunyabis12

It has, still a light grinding sound, definitely from the 230k mile old wheel bearings, but no locking up

I Put a feeler gauge in the conical washer, there is an uneven gap. Fixed it. Checked the bolt holding the caliper on the bottom, the bolt was half sheared which kept the caliper at halfway open but not fully loose

So randomly, one day, I go to drive the wagon and then I brake coming up to a stoplight, and the front passenger wheel is making a grinding noise as the wheel turns it get stronger almost like there's a high spot on the rotor, then it locks up here and there, but the rotors and pads are new - less than 250 miles on them - and brakes have been bled

Now the question is how do I get it to stop getting stuck open

Other than that, I finally gotten it to idle evenly at about 800

Okay so, I've been overthinking it a little, the throttle is getting physically stuck open a little. The spring isn't returning the throttle all the way closed

I thought a tightened idle screw meant leaner and loosening it meant richer?

I'll do that because I'm sure it's part of it, but could that cause it to run even with the idle mix screw tightened down all the way?

My 85 gl with the dcz carburetor idles like crap and I honestly can't figure it out. It'll still idle sometimes with the idle mix screw bottomed out etc and I'm honestly not experienced enough to figure it out

One more question and this might be stupid, if I had the hill holder set up correctly would it activate whenever I push the clutch in? Like if I'm on the highway and I try to shift?

No I was just wondering if anyone knew how to adjust it properly because I assumed doing it on a hill is the wrong way

The spring is still on and the lever actuates brakes still, the cable on the clutch fork is just completely loosened though

The cable is just completely loose and almost detached because the guy who owned it before me was too lazy to put in the effort

Is there an easy way to adjust it or do I just have to sit on a hill and play it by feel?

I have a 2bbl Hitachi carburetor on my 85 gl wagon, I freshly rebuilt the carburetor, new everything, checked the float and valve seats to make sure they were sealing, made sure the solenoid in the top was working and everything. But now I have an issue where its running rich at idle even with the idle adjustment screw tightened all the way

I got the dorman kit from O'Reilly's for 12$ bolts right up just remove the old thermo choke from the bracket and put the new one in, difficult part is routing the choke cable and finding somewhere to mount the cable bracket

Alright, you've convinced me, I'm gonna rebuild the Hitachi with a kit from O'Reilly's and maybe swap the auto choke for a wire Thanks for your support

From what I can tell Weber sells a bolt on kit for the 32/36 progressive and it has an electric choke, and from what I hear it can be a bit of trouble to get on but it's worth it because you can actually adjust stuff aside from the idle air mix

Yeah the choke doesn't work at all, but I'm curious as to why you think the Weber swap isn't worth the trouble? A lot of people say it's a much better option than dealing with the Hitachi

Yeah, I was just wondering if it was common and an easy fix, I planned on replacing it with a 32/36 anywho Thanks

Let me clarify that I am not that familiar with carburators as a whole and am even less familiar with the Hitachi on my GL, however it wont idle on cold starts unless I sit there and give it gas until it's warmed up, from what I know this is an issue with the choke?

I was thinking about doing that but I honestly hate dealing with computers, tuning ecu's and stuff is just above my pay grade, maybe I could carb swap and older ej25 lol

I plan on rebuilding it first with some new piston rings and pistons but they're gonna be OEM grade replacements so I'm wondering what it would be able to handle without grenading itself