Equalizer

I plan to get some work done on my 98 Leg OB, ie. head gaskets:-\ , shims adjusted, clutch, oil seals, and belts. Am I forgetting anything....? I don't really have much in the way of cold engine piston slap, but thought about replacing rings anyway since the mechanic will be in there anyhow. He said it wouldn't be worth doing unless I get a valve job w/new pistons because the rings won't seal it any better since there's already a gap between the aluminum pistons and cylinder. Anyhow, I met a guy at the grocery store one day that had a cool 2002 imp. wrx. He said that his friends replaced the Al pistons with steel Ford pistons. Has anyone you know had this done? Any benefits? I haven't been able to find any info about The reaming of the cylinder wall and replacement of the pistons in regards to gas mileage, only supposed to increase compression, hence horses. Before the heads went, the car had enough horses for my style of driving, but wanted to know your opinion about the above questions and whether or not you'd have that extra work done on yours in my shoes? Thanks, eq ps: Going to take the car in tomorrow if he can get it into his schedule. I also found a site http://nasioc.com and did a search. Found a LOT of info on the piston issue. It sounds mighty involved.

I would like to see more horn sites use the decible level at a fixed distance specs. Its really hard to compare apples and oranges without tone and dB levels. I guess the next best thing is to see peoples reactions to horns blown, like on the previous clips. I found one I like from fiamm, yet the problem is still there. If I mount it up front where it will be exposed to rain, I'm told it will rust up. I think they call it the ultimate. Its shaped like a duel shell horn directly to the compressor, with no lines. I've compared it side by side to the other fiamm single tones of similar designs and it is even louder.....by a LOT. Its a shame that it can't be effectively protected from atmospheric moisture and the elements. If I seel it, it can't draw air into the compressor. Plus there is the horn opening, but the package said something about a new improved valve, or something. The expensive truck horns, and train horns have no guarantee, which is pricey if there is a problem. I'd still like to get a train horn, mount it to lower air intake on the OB, if the rest of the unit fits in a protected area like next to the battery. Again, what is it that makes the price range so widely on all of those trumpet horns? Some are $300-$2000+!!! eq

Maybe I can go as high as $150 if I save a couple more weeks, but most of the big rig systems start around $300 once you factor in the tank, etc., and still need space under the hood. How does that system you mentioned, Wolo, fit? Might look cool to mount a pair of trumpets on the roof rack. I've heard what you said about the trumpet horns on other sites, but trying out the sea shell duelly, it was loud. Only problem is it uses the same compressor, and it should be mounted like the description above or it looses its decibles under the hood.

This topic has been covered a while back, but I thought there might be some new info available. Did all of the searches, and still not quite sold on a particular one. I live near a college town and the traffic now is downright dangerous. One rule of thumb that the parents must be teaching their kids, because many of the parents do it too is, "Make sure to change lanes suddenly, without checking mirrors, or signalling." Its a miracle that I've survived, and the subi so far this new season. Not to mention the bloated maggot bag who tried real hard to ram me with his pick up truck, but that's another story. Like many of you, we need a decent aftermarket horn on our subis. IMHO, a horn is a safety device to warn others who drive with their eyes closed, while listening, no doubt, to Obiwan Kinobi on their cell phones say, "Use the force, Luke." I've shoped for air horns and the good ones are BIG $. The local auto marts have the italian red fiamms w/no guarantee. I've read that if they are exposed to h2o, they will turn into a block of rust, or I would've kept the model that has the compressor hooked directly to the duel seashell. Mighty good pitch and volume. I've read some places that the trumpet ones tend to pause before sounding and they aren't very durable. If you've had long term possitive experiences, let us know. The single electric seashells and button horns just don't do it for me. Tried a couple out. I need the following: 1. Something that can mount under the grill in the open air intakes below the bumper on an OutBack. 2. Loud enough to scare dead opossums back to life, or at least out of the road before they get hit. 3. Long term Durability 4. Can be hooked up to be activated by the steering wheel horn button. 5. Feel free to add your own. Any suggestions for around $100, preferably less? eq

Hey Guys, I decided to go ahead and remove my center roof cross members like Ranger did, and window stickers, and detail the exterior. Then, I'm just going to pin stripe the hood around the scoop where the crease lines are. Once I figure out, probably through trial and error, if the perforated window print that goes on the outside rear window will fit, I'll paint it with my design and hope it comes out ok. I'll do the same with the side windows as long as I know that the windows won't strip it off. I'm still wondering how to fix my bumper w/out shelling out over $100 for a repaint out of pocket. A kid scraped it really bad. I might just do some kind of filler and touch up paint, but thats just temp too. Maybe a decal stripe, maybe that carbon fiber. Any suggestions?

I agree Martinjmpr. '97-'99 got it right, and I like the latest model too. I guess my desire for adding a little is to accent those nice lines and somewhat unique features that tend to be less noticable, not for anyone else, because all that does IMHO is to make it more like a ticket magnet. I'm doing it for my own asthetic desire to make it match my tastes. I don't have a family, so why drive something that looks like a family car IMHO, if its borderline one way or another. I believe it has the shape that lends itself to slightly sporty, slightly family, depending on how its presented. I drive it that way too. Sometimes gas miserly, sometimes rally. Ranger, Good points. I think many of those factory stickers detract, rather than dress it up. I plan on stripping those off. I like the roof rack idea too, esp since I never use it. Who knows, maybe it'll cut wind drag slightly. I like your car, I just want to accent what I said above while adding practical window cover for heat deflection, privacy, and advertising, while trying to sport it up a little, not nascar it. Best regards guys, eq

I've been considering adding a little flair to my 98 Leg OB without making it look like a pimp mobile, or adding lots of $. It makes no reasonable sense for me to put money into cosmetics when I need a couple grand to fix under the hood what needs fixing, ie. defective head gaskets, etc. BUT, it is summer and after pricing decals, striping, etc. I figure that for cheap I can make it look cool this hot summer until I can afford to invest big bucks under the hood. It still runs anyhow, and I decided the problems I have are probably cheaper than buying something else w/problems someone else had in my price range. That said, has anyone besides me noticed those babish curves on the OBs? My car's paint job is a reddish maroon and fairly new since I got it used and found out that it was possibly wrecked, but nicely restored. I was looking for some way to take advantage of the flairs, ie. upper side crease, possibly bubble roof, and especially the hood flair around the scoop. I get chided for the scoop every so often and I tell 'em, "Hey, so what if its just a cosmetic scoop, I like it!" BTW, I like the lines that surround it, like a pair of giant beetle mandibles, so I wish I knew of a way to set those off. Then I see that big racing stripes are cheap in Advanced Auto, even the carbon fiber ones, which might not be tooo austintacious (is that a word?). THEN two weeks ago, I finally saw an out of town LEG OB drive through the intersection w/the big over the hood and roof pin+6" wide racing stripes! Guys, I almost ran a red light just to catch up w/that babe and check it out closer. I'm having a hard time finding in mags and net anything like a Leg OB to get some ideas. Just STis. BTW, I picked up a bunch of rear window pin hole type stick on prints cheap, just in case I can do anything with them. They are for flat pick up trucks windows, so it might be a problem on the back. They are all flames comming out of a maltese cross. I don't like the maltese cross, whatever it is, but thought I might be able to paint over it before application of something. Maybe I can put them on side windows, w/advertising too. Ideas? I know that lots of guys and gals have tricked out their Subies here that I really like, so anyhow, I'm looking for pics and suggestions. eq

Hi Nipper, Great info! I don't ever let my car warm up at idle, because I read that its harder on the little Al block 4 cylinders as it takes a while for oil to get to the top end. So, I normally just take off as soon as it starts then not drive it hard. Its mostly downhill and level until warm up anyhow. But, since the HG problem wouldn't involve a rubber part (?) I'm guessing that the cold may not have been the culprit, yet like you said, weak parts are more suseptable to break in extreme cold, or something like that. NOW I know why wind chill affects critters and not subers. I was told by the garage, that they only use the 4 layer HGs. Do you know if these are copper too? Lastly, Do you recommend the factory recommended stop leak/ conditioner over any others? Thanks, eq

1. 3rd sentence in first post. At least 50% mix on my test strip. The chart indicated safe to -10F. 2. On the hwy. that morning there was over a 70mph gale. I understand wind chill factor on animals, but not inatimate objects. 3. Mileage is 130,000mi. Mostly hwy. 4. My hoses feel/look OK, but I'm wondering if a piece of HG broke loose, or sludge build up could have caused blockage to a passage in the radiator, or thermostat.?.... Thanks Nipper! BTW, There is a thread I read a while back posted by the "the Other Skip" w/his pics and notes on his DIYS job on a common head gasket job. Its blocked. Does anyone have it saved and could repost it here? PS: Would using one of those head gasket sealant additives to the coolant make a tough head gasket replacement much tougher? Since it isn't reeeeel baaad just yet, I was wanting to put it off until I can come up w/the big bucks to do it right, if the additive doesn't add trouble. Thanks!

Here's a theory. Note that this is Not a "conspiracy theory" of alien abduction of said Subaru:eek: , albeit stranger things have happened. Tell me if this has any validity. The extreme temp that morning, ie. zero F or possibly slightly less, combined with the placement of the thermostat ("t" or "stat" for now on) exposed to wind under car may have cause the coolent to freeze, hence stopping flow. The temp combined w/wind on hwy. kept the engine cool until slowing on the back roads. At such time the engine overheats and blows an already weak and whimpy gasket. (note: one of the only whimpy parts on a Subru.) BTW, the night before, the heater was extra hot too, but the guage said normal. It was the first time that my temp adjustment would go ALL THE WAY to the right w/out the typical resistance at the end. I have no idea why. That said, the Subi shop guy said the weather had Nothing to do w/the break down. It was a coincidence. What do you guys think? And again. I've got the ability to pull the engine, but would have to have someone else resurface the heads and do a presure check on the heads if needed. PRO: I usually do work on my own car, although it takes forever, because I've run into so much messed up sloppy jobs at the dealerships. I also save some money. I'm not sure about this shop, but they have a decent reputation. Old maxim usually applies w/me, "If you want it done right, do it yourself." CONS: I've got no experience doing this job, or engine work. Cylinder pressure checks, U-joints, high wear part replacement, and a couple of clutch replacements are the extent of my experience on this type car. I've got space in only a one car garage. What do you think?

I have a 98 Leg OB that replaced my 97 that has a blown head gasket. About 2wks ago w/had zero weather, coldest day this winter. Prior to that day, I checked my coolent to see if it had the right concentration. At least 50%= -10F. So OK. I drove on hwy for half an hour, then on windy roads for onther 15, THEN I noticed the temp guage toped out hot as it would show!!! I pulled off. Idling would bring down temp, so I turned it off. BTW, the heater was blowing air so hot, that it would burn your hand if you left it against the dash vent for too long. However, the radiator was cool:confused: . The overflow was filled up and sprayed across the engine. The radiator looked full. So I suspected a vapor lock due to blown gasket. Since then, I've babied it, and have to replace some fluid now and then, but its only overheated once as I can tell since then. Oh, BTW, oil on the antifreeze in the overflow tank. Someone told me its a soft plug leaking. I don't think so, but is this possible? Have I blown another head gasket? If so, the labor is $500-600 at a small shop that speciallizes in Subies, NOT a dealership. Is this a DIYS job, timing belt replacement included, for someone who has changed clutches, Or should I let a shop do it? Thanks, eq

I should have written it down. I'll get back to you on the code next week. Thanks!

My mechanic checked the code from the check engine light on my 98 OB leg. He said I probably just needed new plugs and wires. Did both w/oem and the light went away for a day or two until I ran it hard and it came on again. Gas mileage should be better, but not running too bad. Any suggestions? Thanks, Frank

I was wondering if that "dilectric grease" helps with contact, or if it simply cuts down on corrosion eating the posts on batteries? I just replaced my plugs and wires (oem) recently because it, the trouble engine light, was putting out a code. Think I'll start a new thread so as not to distract from the original question. Best regards, Frank

Hi, Just purchased new plug wires because service engine light and 126k mi. w/worse than normal 19-21 mpg hwy gas mileage. I'm second owner and the ones on it are labeled "Yazaki 1997 R-16-AIPS" and are red w/black boots. I'm second owner, so these may be aftermarket.(?) The new in box are "7mm Hight Performance Silicon Suppression SOA430Q122 and same w/Q121 suffix" for '97 and '98 Leg OBacks. These are BLACK wires w/ red boots. I read somewhere that they should be RED wires if they are the good components. Does anyone know if there is a difference in SOA plug wires, good, bad, or ugly? Thanks, eq

I saw a car the other day, maybe the same one you are talking about. I thought it was a Lexus though. I said to myself, Lexus is comming up in the world, trying to copy my OB. The only thing I liked better about it was the window tint. Still not dark or reflective enough though.

I checked a place that I got some parts from a long time ago, not too far from a crooked Subi dealership. Found out that this place not only sells aftermarket parts, but also does service. Neat thing is that they only work on Subarus! After talking to the owner about a couple of posibilities, I could tell that he knew his stuff, and seemed reasonable as far as prices too. One of his mechanics, a guy who USED to work in the sorry excuse for a dealership across the road, told me what it was as soon as we pulled into traffic......a front wheel bearing. JFYI, I learned that the one piece bearings on the legacies don't always have the play of the old 2 piece GL bearings. That's why it had no play when I raised it and shook the wheel. I've replaced plenty of wheel bearings on the older cars, but had them do this job. Get this. It only cost me $100. I would have paid that much just for the bearing at the stealership. It wasn't OEM, but the owner guarantees it and said that the've never had one go bad. Time will tell, but the car now runs like new! I'm really happy that I've found a shop that speciallizes in subies w/out having to fratinize w/the couple of bad dealerships that bend rocker panels w/their lifts and tell you to live with it. I passeth noxious exhaust fumes in their general direction. Thanks guys

Thanks for all of the responses, guys! I found the real problem that was causing the noise and vibration in the front end. It turned out to be a wheel bearing. I ruled it out initially since the wheel had no play, but apparently the big 1 piece bearings keep it tight, when going bad, unlike the 2 piece ones on the older GLs. I still plan to change the gear oils, but your different responses made it a tougher decision than I 1st thought it would be:-\ . Any other recommendations, or if you want to expand on your answers any more, are appreciated. I'll be checking back. Thanks again

Car: 98 Legacy Outback, 5 speed Manual Tranny. Situation: I plan to change my ball joints this week, time permitting. Shudder/vibration in front end. The car has 115,000mi. on it. Unrelated to the joints: I bought it used, so the Gear lube has probably never been replaced. Since I'll have the car on stands changing the joints, thought it'd be a good time to kill another bird, or two while I'm at it, and change the Manual trans. oil, (not to be confused with trans fats, or triglicerides ). Also might be able to change the differential oils while I'm at it too. I've had some trouble shifting when starting out in the mornings through the winter, so I'm considering full synthetic. Questions: 1. What is the safest and best viscosity/brand/type to replace in the Manual gear box, and in both differentials? 2. What do you think about synthetic, as oppossed to dino for these applications, and why? 3. Any tricks to changing these that aren't described in the Haynes Manual? 4. Lastly, Do you recommend any special additives that might help keep the gaskets plyable, or be beneficial?

What you have stated may be true of some, yet others in this as well as many other threads have had, IMHO, some legitamate gripes. I'm sure that they wish that they could have gone as far as you and yours w/out a head gasket failure. You make some good points. I have been a fan of Subarus for many years too. I also agree with you concerning the principal of reliability, and ease of repair compared to most companies foreign and domestic. I hope you didn't take it personal as to the statement in which you quoted me, as I don't think that you worship Subarus. I was only trying to convey what I've seen in so many other forums; that of people becomming highly defensive when someone points out a flaw in their idols. It is just refreshing to be able to interact and hear the experiences of others who like subarus, who aren't afraid to point out a flaw when it needs addressing. Key word, "objectivity". Again, I hope that someone who can do something from the company is reading this and taking notes. Glad to hear of your 20 years in one car. I thought I had bragging rights when my Old GL went over 10 years and over 268,000 mi.

Thanks Subaru X I plan to change it/them this week. Will post back here when the job is done.

Its good to see a lot of Subi guys and gals who like Subarus, but aren't investing in them the attributes of Diety, and worshipping them. It just seems like human nature for people to get all bent out of shape when someone points out a fault in their little idols, no matter what it is. Here, at this forum is where I see some genuine honesty when it comes to "genuine Subaru parts." That said, I've owned 3 Subarus. My previous OB also of the 2.5 vintage had a blown head gasket. One thing that I've always liked about Subaru, was that when a defect would crop up in a model, they'd try to correct it in short order and make the following years w/out that defect. Chrysler did NOT, so I've realized that they make some of their's if not all of their vehicles have engineered obselesence and don't care about anything but the bottom line. Well, I don't care to do business w/them. Subaru, in spite of reports of changing gaskets over the past few years, is also guilty of this practice. I like many things about Subarus, and overall like the company, but what I'm hearing is like politicians. Which is the lesser of the evils? If they're both evil, what does it matter? In my opinion, they don't want my business. The OB that I have will be the last if the head gasket blows. You know the saying, "fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice shame on me." I hope that the company is watching this thread like "Big Brother." As much as I've bragged on Subarus over the years, I aught to get a commision, and I have a right to bash them where the company needs bashing. HEY SUBARU, you aught to be ashamed of yourselves!

Subaru X, Did you also have the clicking noise when pulling under load, ie. out of a driveway, in a tight corner? Mine doesn't have this, which is one reason I'm puzzled. I've replaced axles on my old GL a number of times in the past, because it was easier and nearly the same price as replacing the joints. If it is the balljoint(s), do you recommend replacing the whole axle, or is there enough room, and easy enough to just replace the joints? Thanks!

I don't know for sure. My 97 Leg OB seemed to hold 13 as I let it go empty for a while on a couple occasions. My identical 98 holds 15gals, I was surprised to find out after running on vapors. This might account for the reason I get more miles/tankful, but Not per gal. They predict that the price of gas by the end of summer will double the value of the average car with every fill up . Edit PS: Sorry, my screen blanked out when I first posted. Didn't think it took.

Not sure, but the last time that I let my tank go about dry, it shocked me to see 15 gals go into my 98 Leg OB tank. I thought that my 97 only held 13 because it only took that much after the empty warning light went on for a while. By the end of the summer, they predict that the price of gas will double the value of the average car with every fill up.