Legacy

I'll chime in here pointing to the O2 sensor. In my case the vehicle in question is a 97 Civic (yes I know boo hiss). I used to have a 91 Legacy which sadly I sent to the wrecking yard... The problem first showed up in Sept 2014. For me the problem was intermittent, and basically it felt as though I had taken my foot off the accelerator, so the car would start coasting. Whenever it happened, I tried different things to see what would happen. I tried pushing the accelerator pedal more, no effect. I tried holding the accelerator steady, and the car would coast for a bit, engine RPM would would bleed off somewhat (don't know the numbers, no tach). Then suddenly it would roar back to life with a jolt. Then it would happen all over again but at this point the car is going a bit faster than before. This would happen 3 to 5 times in a row. I suspected the O2 sensor since it never happened in the first few minutes while the car is warming up. I disconnected the O2 sensor connector and although it was sluggish and idled rough, it didn't show the hesitation issue. I never got a check engline light or code, so it was frustrating, but I went ahead and replaced the primary O2 sensor and the hesitation issue has been gone since. I removed the old one to check the make and replaced with same which in my case was NTK.

I had a similar intermittent low power/hesitation issue, though for me the vehicle is a 97 Civic. (I used to have a 91 Legacy, but that's besides the point...). This started in Aug/Sept 2014. Sometimes it would happen several times in a trip, sometimes not at all. The symptom for me was that I would try to accelerate, and it would feel as though I had taken my foot off the accelerator. If I kept the accelerator pedal in the same position, I could feel the RPM bleeding off (not sure of the exact numbers, the car doesn't have a tach), then it would suddenly start accelerating again, then bleed off, etc in a "sawtooth" pattern. This was always once the car was warm, so it suggested the O2 sensor was faulty (O2 sensor is ignored when engine is initially warming up). To diagnose I disconnected the harness from the O2 sensor. It ran a bit rough at idle like this but I never got the low power/hesitation with the O2 sensor disconnected. One thing though is that I never got a check engine light or any codes, so I was still not sure the O2 sensor was the culprit. I changed it anyway as this was a driveability issue and it was getting progressively worse. It was happening more often and eventually on every trip. I changed out the O2 sensor at the beginning of January and it has solved the problem for me. In my case I got a NTK sensor rather than going to Honda but I had looked at the old sensor and identified it as NTK so stuck with that. But you've already changed the O2 sensor so most likely it's NTK or Denso, who both make the sensors for the Japanese makes. The other possibility I read about when researching my issue is the throttle position sensor. It may have one or more "dead" spots throughout its range, where it puts out no voltage rather than what it should be for that position of the throttle valve.

Too late, you're an expert now! Nice, when an opportunity like that comes up, you have to jump on it. Agreed about the hoist, one of those would be nice to have but take up too much space for something that would rarely get used. Picking up engines and throwing them over the shoulder eh? Sounds like Andre the Giant in "The Princess Bride"

I've never attempted something as major as a swap. Curious as to what it took beyond the usual tools. I guess what I'm wondering about is for the actual lifting out/dropping in of the engines. Borrowed an engine hoist?

After about 8 years, I've made my way back to this forum. Let me explain. I used to have a 1991 Legacy, from 2002 to 2006. I gave up the car in 2006, which I really regret. It was an issue with emissions testing, nothing really wrong with it (except for the normal things that happen with a 15-year old car). At the time I wasn't into DIY fixing as I am now, but there are a few things I miss: -being able to do the oil change without raising the vehicle at all. The HO engine is short so there is tons of space underneath it. Also, the oil filter was on the bottom, so oil didn't drip all over the side of things. -the fact that it was a 5-speed manual. Also my Legacy was a FWD model, with the 2.2 SOHC engine. I realize there are no FWD Subies anymore, but even 5-speed is getting harder to find. I checked a few manufacturers' sites and when you want the manual tranny (that is, if they offer one at all!), it's the no frills base model. And they probably don't have any at the dealership. -the look of the car - I liked the reflective red plastic across the entire back of the car, had a sleek look to it - for a 90s car I should say at this point I am Subaru-less but I will be looking for a used Legacy or Legacy wagon when I replace the current car. It's hard to find ones with manual trannies but at least AutoTrader can help with that.

Oops my bad. It's a 91 Legacy. In any case, went to Standard Auto Wreckers and went to the UPIC yard. After about 2 minutes, I found a 90 Legacy sedan, but the visors were both gone. Another 2 minutes and I spotted a Legacy Wagon, either 90 or 91. Matched the colour too . Price $5.49 + $1 "environmental fee" + taxes.

For the past 3 years (my years of ownership), the driver's side visor was always a bit low, but this morning it cracked and stays far too low. I'm wondering if there are auto wreckers in the Toronto area that have imports or otherwise if there are generic replacements from Canadian Tire or NAPA, etc. Thanks for any help!

Thanks coloradosubarules, If you have a wiring diagram ready to go and can be sent by email, go ahead and send it please, but don't go out and make one on my account. I'm sure once I get into it and U-Haul, I'll figure something out. email is sglarocqueATyahoo.ca obviously with AT replaced with @ Thanks again!

Thanks for the info guys.

I was wondering what I would need in order to get a hitch and trailer connector installed for my 91 Legacy. I checked the owner's manual and my Haynes manual but there was no mention of either that I could find. Any good, simple-to-install systems?

So even these newer models have no chime to remind you when the parking lights are on? After having left them on after parking the car at work one time, my g/f put a piece of tape to prevent me from using it again

I had my 91 Legacy tested for emissions around mid December last year, and failed because of a high NOx reading. Knowing beforehand that the rear cat had been removed, I wasn't surprised. The reading wasn't even close, it was more than double the allowable ppm. They did a motorvac and retested it, and it passed. The RPM on the test was different so I suspect that they "play" with it a bit to get you by. If it had failed the retest I still would have received a conditional pass because the cost of a replacement cat would have put the bill over the repair cost limit. The conditional pass is good for 2 years (like a normal pass) but you must pass the next test, you can't pass conditionally again, so it gives you 2 years to fix it or get rid of it.

Would you be able to see what the oil pressure, water temperature, etc readings are? Or would you only whatever the output is (eg millivolt)

I was driving a 5 speed Toyota truck (not mine). Of course the drink didn't fit in the cup holder securely so I held it most of the way, which is interesting when you also have to shift gears. Anyway, on the LAST turn, I thought what the heck it should hold. I let go, and this being a left turn the cup did a nice 90 degree tilt to the right and splashed all over the passenger floor mat. I'm glad to say I'm off soft drinks

I have the same symptoms. It's a real loud shrieking or squealing when it's below -10 C. Screams like a banshee. It gets more intense with speed, but goes away after 5-10 minutes as everything warms up. Mine is a 91 Legacy. I talked to a few people about whether it can be lubricated but basically it's not worth the effort. Only thing is you have to wait until it gets warm if you want to sell it

But I have had frost on the inside of the windshield and windows many times, when I lived in city with a cold climate.

On my 91 Legacy L there are two temp sensors. One 2 prong sensor which has a connector and is used by the ECU. There is another, smaller one mounted at almost the same location which is used for the temp gauge.

Did the carbon cleanup, brought the NOx down and squeaked by. Good for another 2 years.

Turns out the front converter is the actual converter. The second one (back) is a resonator. The mechanic called the dealership and gave them VIN to confirm. (there may be differences in the US and Canadian systems) He has since done a diagnostic and gave me two options: the converter or removal of carbon build-up. The converter is quite expensive (over $300) on its own, but if I let him remove the carbon and it fails the retest, changing the converter would put me over the Repair Cost Limit, so I will get a conditional pass. This conditional pass is good for 2 years (when the next test is due). After that I can either fix whatever is required or sell the car and pass the problem on to someone who wants to deal with it or someone who lives outside of the emissions-test areas. If I can get 2 more years out of this car I wil be happy.

A few weeks ago during some heavy rain the wipers were doing their duty when suddenly in morning rush hour traffic the passenger side blade went loose and started to flop around. I turned the wipers off so as to not break anything. The arms were secured to the drive linkage, but the blade assembly has somehow become damaged ( I think there is some sort of retaining clip which I've seen on replacement blades, which is absent from mine). For now I've taken the blade off and squeezed the U part of the arm to make it a bit tighter, and threaded some metal wire through some holes that line up so if it becomes loose it won't be able to slip out and flop around like that again. Gotta love these old cars!

I am once again calling on the collective experience of the group here. I recently attempted an emissions test with my 91 Legacy 2.2 (naturally aspirated). Surprisingly, given its mileage (210,000 km) it passed the hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide tests with flying colours, even at idle. The results were no where near the limits. However, for NOx, it failed miserably. My limit was 777 ppm and I got 1275 ppm. The mechanic said this high NOx reading is usually caused by high temperatures. He further suggested it could be because of a faulty O2 sensor running lean or the catalytic converter being shot. I happen to know that the car has no cat (the rear one was removed by the previous owner). I wanted to get some advice on what would cause the high NOx. I currently have no codes, having recently replaced the purge solenoid and cleared the code that it was causing. Thanks for any help

Well while doing an oil change recently, I spotted a sign of a small oil leak at the bottom of the timing belt covers. What's odd is that there is never any dripping on the garage floor, or wherever I park. I guess it just falls off in motion. Anyway, I went to take off the outer belt covers to see if I could locate the leak, but attempting to do so only resulted in 'stripping' some of the fasteners. Specifically, some of the bolts go into nuts which are set in the plastic of the cover, with serrated edges or something along those lines. When I turned the bolt the nut turned with it, so the bolt won't come out. Anyone else run into this?

When I first got my 91 Legacy, it had warped rotors, and I replaced those to cure the braking wobble it had. From the previous owner's maintenance records I found that the front end had been fixed up a couple of years prior and I still have a slight wobble at high speed. I always figured it was the rims going more and more out of round with time and the pounding they are subjected to. The tires aren't too bad, but they don't have too much life left in them, so they probably aren't quite balanced either. Just some extra thoughts I thought I'd share with you...

As though it KNEW what I wrote on the board, my car threw me the code on the way home today, and on the next trip out later on. So it's replacement time. I'm looking for confirmation of the part #. I lifted the number off the valve under the intake manifold pipes on the RHS and got 14774AA350. I talked to the local parts guy and he says it is superseded by 14774AA351. I wanted to confirm this is the right part, since the Legacy parts sheet shows this valve as #4 on p. 344 (Emission components), but there isn't an intake manifold shown in dashed lines or anything like that, which would have located it. I appreciate everyone's patience toward this thread which has probably been around longer than it should have been.

Cool, in that case I will attempt the e-test soon before it comes back on