simple monkey
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Posts posted by simple monkey
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i'm glad those corner markers worked out well for you, they look really good.
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most parts stores will have them; check westbay or autozone. be careful with them, they are higher wattage than the regular white or green ones.
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this is a common thing to do when using either a blow off valve or a front mount intercooler. there is a post in the new USRM section about this.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64741
i tried this on my subie, but the turbo exploded and a valve got broken before i got to drive it. having the MAF after the BOV allows you to vent it to the atmosphere since no additional air is passing thru the MAF.
it wouldn't hurt to try. if you do, post pictures, then document it; a concrete answer on this topic is yet to be proven.
on 02+ wrxes, this seems to work well.
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conversly, exhaust will make an impact on the engine. are you planning on running an equal length exhaust manifold? there are $50.00 ones on ebay, sounds great, right?
this is a very exciting build for me, i always wanted a high compression subie with open stacks. but, i didn't get to keep my subie very long.
anyway, cool build, keep us updated.
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Don't.
Drive the car first with the engine set up the way it is. Don't be fixated on a #, focus on how the car is to drive. The combo you've got should generate more than enough power to be fun to drive.
+12345
look into a new intake setup, i would go with itb's since you have reground cams and high compression. Opening the intake will gain quite a bit of power with your setup. You can run ITB's with your afm even, but you'll need something to read the new TPS signal.
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i made city lights by dremeling the headlight housings. they never leaked, and looked damn good. cost me 10 dollars.
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Google Sub4 and Ram Engines
those are plane engines. i meant "in" a subie.
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i've never seen a twin carb setup like this on a subie, great build! keep up the good work.
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For your Imprezza, you want to use Forester struts, and yes, you have to replace all 4. You want first gen Forester struts, not sure what years those are though
-Bill
1997-2002 chassis model is SF
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I made something like that but slightly smaller and more rounded so I could fir it over the bulb. If I made it to big the light would hit it when I turned the high beams on :-\ Works now though, cant someone turn the sun off for a seocnd?
please post pictures, sounds very interesting.
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one thing about HID kit's is that they glare in headlights not designed for HID bulbs. Glare shields can easily be made for the bulb like the one in this link.
http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20195
with HID's installed, oncoming motorists should be kept in mind.
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Question 1: not sure if you mean the entire headlight or just the bulb. I have no idea about the entire thing. The legacy uses a 9004 bulb, where the older imprezas used H4's and now H1's. There are actual projector headlights for your car.
http://www.andysautosport.com/subaru/1995_1999_legacy/lights/headlights
/dimension_lab/
and these
http://www.andysautosport.com/subaru/1995_1999_legacy/lights/headlights/sherman/
Question 2: Absolutely! This sounds like a great project for the weekend. :grin:Upon looking on the web a little, I found a guy who performed this on his toyota camry using E46 BMW projectors.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136335
There are other options for getting brighter headlights:
1. kingbobdole is right, fog lights are a simple way to get the light you want. I had a set of foglights on my subie which i found at a u-pull yard, bought new bulbs and wired them in. There was a substantial difference.
2. You could try one of these HID kits. higher numbers in K are blue and purple, the middle 5K-8K is pretty white, and 4K and below are yellowish.
3. You could rewire your headlights to use higher wattage bulbs. The OEM wires are too thin to move that type of current.
Hope this helps.
Victor
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do you plan on venting your wastegate to the atmosphere, or back into the exhaust? keep up the good work, and get better soon.
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two superchargers? the parasitic power loss on this little engine with two superchargers wouldn't be worth it. not modifying the exhaust would only result in less power. twin turbos would be cool, but finding two turbos small enough for the EA81. the turbo from an EA82 would be good for the EA81 by itself, two of them would never spool. do you plan on running a suck thru or blow thru carb?
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that almost looks like a v-mount
very interesting setup, where did you source the intercooler and plumbing? got to love driving in tunnels. -
stock (yellow top) sr20det injectors are listed ast 370cc but RC engineering lists them as 400cc. These injectors are side feeds and are becoming more common as more people import sr20's from japan. here is a thread on nasioc.com:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92402&highlight=cheap+400cc+injectors
they talk about the characteristics of the sr20 injectors in a subaru.
some nissan injectors fit in the same way subaru injectors do, so you can broaden your search.
hope that helps.
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Today was a good day, I got a lot of christmas shopping done, and revived my car. I pulled the cap off to see that the rotor was still there, but spun freely. I then realized that the screw for the rotor was sitting in the dizzy.
The dizzy and cap both looked fine, so I put it back together and she fired right up. To prevent this from happening again, is it alright to put loctite on the screw?
Thank you all for the input which helped me fix my car, I really need it for school next month. Cheers.
-Victor
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Sounds like the drivers side timing belt stripped some teeth, or otherwise snapped.
Take the distributor cap off and see if the rotor spins when you crank it. Also make sure the rotor screw is still in place.
-Dave
Excellent deduction, this happened to my dad's car around this time last year. I will check tomorrow along with the rotor.
you forgot to mention the plugs look normal.the plugs were replaced about a month ago, they were fine when I checked a moment ago.
Thanks for all the help so far, I'll post more when I'm back with the car tomorrow; its way too cold to be tinkering outside right now.
Cheers.
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Hello USMB,
I've posted a little here before, and now i have a problem and am seeking help. I drive an 89 RX hatch with the following mods:
wrx TMIC
wrx TD04-13L
280zx brown top injectors
3" exhaust from the turbo back
5 lug with ground control coilovers
turbo timer
I was driving my car normally today, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I was stopped at a light, then went it was my turn to go, about half way through the interection my car makes a boom noise then dies. Its made this boom before when off throttle (it runs a tad rich) but never on throttle like this. The car does not start now, it turns over but doesn't start. I checked all the fuses, fusable links, wasn't throwing any codes, no leaking of any fluid, and nothing is changed physically under the hood. It has been cold lately, but i wait til the car is fully warm before i decide to drive it. So what is wrong with my car? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
-Victor
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the only answer you're going to get here is "spfi is better than carbs, blah blah blah." a friend of mine recently had gsx600 throttle bodies on his 2.0 rabbit, so the carbs off of a 600 or bigger should be fine on an ea81. there are many sets of these on eBay motors, normally at a very decent price. i would look other places for inspiration such as volkswagen and porsche forums.
these carbs are for some sort of vw boxer engine. the linkage is the only real difficult part as the manifolds in the picture seem very simple. hope this helps a little, best of luck on your project.
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The general consensus is that the factory housings aren't suited to HID's.
GD
Correct. Most people intall H.I.D. bulbs into the stock housings. Our housings don't have anti-glare shields. Anti-glare sheilds pretty much cover the front half of the bulb and refract the light of the relfective part of the housing. This makes the light seem less bright to on coming traffic and create a more controlled beam. These are cheap and simple to obtain, I greatly encourage trying H.I.D.s as I have been interested in them for quite some time.
best of luck.
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haven't got that far yet, but i'm confident it isn't going to explode tomorrow.10k is nothing. 250k is what your shooting for. And with increased boost, added intercooler, no BPV will make a short life for your turbo.-Brian
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a bypass valve is not completely necessary. i cut out a piece of steel which covers the blow off valve hole on my 02 wrx intercooler. the thing i didn't like about the bypass valve routed back into the intake is that the throttle response wasn't nearly as good as the atmospheric vented bov or running no bov. the open bov made my car run horrible, woudln't idle and ran really rich. no bov isn't as bad for the turbo as people make it sound. i have put about 10k miles on my setup so far with no problems. it depends on what you want.
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you don't need/want one.
Converting carb to MPFI? Need help
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Here is a guy who took the CIS-e injection from a volkswagen and installed it on his ea82. He did put on mpfi heads and added a high pressure fuel pump under the hood. you could always do what this guy did using the carbed manifold with custom injector boses in the intake manifold. I'm sure you could even use a jumper harness and fuel injection from another car with similar sized engine.
here's the link.
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/subaru/1/CIS/