loyalewithcheese

the best bet is to get a stereo install kit that moves the aftermarket stereo out a bit. i think the one i got was from a company called Metra or something like that. got it off ebay for like $10 or so... as for the speakers, stock subi speakers use a common ground for like front and rear or some wacky thing like that. that doesn't jive for aftermarket stereos. i think you can wire fronts with OEM wires, but not with the OEM rear wiring....or something wacky like that. the bottom line is you should test wiring and replace if needed. as for the antenna, mine wouldn't reach so i had to get a 12" extension to reach my head unit. clearance wasn't an issue once i mounted with the install kit. cheers andrew

in addition to northwet's comments, i'll add that what i've read indicates that the high standards LPG tanks face compared to normal gas tanks actually makes them a bit safer. one site claimed a properly mounted tank can even act as a structual support under impact. i'm no expert, but i've yet to see anything that proves they are less safe than a regular tank.

if i remember right emmission wise it all but eliminates hydrocarbon emmisions, doesn't make your oil black with carbon deposits so you can extend your service intervals, and about 85% if lpg sold in the states is domestic, with about 12% of the left over 15% coming form canada and mexico...so you won't be lubricating the war machine. i've done some research for converting my 1969 big block 396ci GMC truck. it seems that you get more benefit with old, less effiecent motors as far as emmisions is concerned. when i actually have money to spend on my truck i will most likely do it, but unless gas goes way up and LPG says put i doubt i would do it on a soob. but that's just me =) propane is the most readily available alternative fuel on the US market. as northwet stated prices do vary wildley, but even so, you could easily drive across the US on propane. there is .gov site with a propane station locator, but i'm too lazy to go look for it.

no i need to check it, but on Bilevel it really really feels like it. both the air coming out and the hit on performance.

now that sounds like good idea, i could wire that up. anyone ever try it? cheers droo

i was using bilevel, but it still seems like the AC is kicking on. it seems like it's not used when you slide the thing off cold, but i don't want to be adding any heat that i don't want. maybe i can rig some light to tell when the AC is actually going.

okay, i need some help. i find the vent/ac controls is our loyale a bit confusing. it seems like no matter what button i press defrost/heat/bilevel/ac whatever it seems like the AC is kicking in and the buttons are just changing where the air comes out of. if i hit heat and slide it to hot, it comes out hot, but when i first hit that button after being off it sounds and feels (power wise) like the AC is kicking in. is this normal? is there a way to get vent air out of the center vents with the fans assisting? where i live it's often cool enough to use the air, but we want to keep the window up to keep our baby asleep, but it seems like the only way i get outside air without the AC is to have it on OFF and the lever on vent. sounds dumb, but this is driving me crazy. thanks droo

anyone recommend a rack system that clamps on the a loyale wagon roof rack? i need a rack that works with the front bike wheel still on since my bike is a cannondale with a lefty front end. tia droo

i did the PIAA extreme whites on my motorcycle and was very happy with them. here's my bikes OEM high beam... here's the bike with the PIAAs... here's OEM low beam... and PIAA low beam... note these pics were taken with a digital slr with a fixed 4 sec exposure and manual white balance. so the color and brightness diffs should not be from the camera. the low beam pics shows only one h4 bulb since my dual light motorcycle had one low beam burnt out. so when i took the pics to compare i did the PIAA with only one bulb as well. i am very pleased with them, they are no xenons, but i knew that. they are way better than what i had and when i have some extra cash i plan on getting some for the soob.

thanks for the tips, i will look for a thread chaser. i was in a kragen today and asked for something like this before i read your responses and the parts goon shrugged in stupidity. believe me, i'm not suprised. i'll keep at it, i don't think there is any major damage so i think i can get it in there with some patience, and maybe some thread chaser help. this is on the left side/rear cylinder all others went on fine with the socket i have, it isn't too bulky and it does seem to be getting hung up. i'll poke around my motorcycles i think i have a tool kit plug socket that might be slimmer. cheers droo

hey all, any tips on getting around a spark plug hole that is being a pia? i just keep trying and trying and it starts to feel good, then it stops. the threads look pretty good so unless i get overanxious i'm 95% sure all is fine, i just can't get it in the right way and it's driving me nuts! tia droo

cool thanks that what i figured. i just wanted to be sure when the owners manual said "under pressure" it didn't mean a lot of pressure. thanks all droo

hey all, so i got some bits to freshen up our newly purchased loyale, mostly ignition junk -- cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oil & filter. thought i'd replace the fuel filter as well, but when i looked in the owner's manual it said take it to the dealer blah blah, something about not smoking while scratching you bum. i dunno. anyway, so i don't have a haynes, i have a disposition against chilton manuals, and i've yet to find a suub manual on ebay....soooooo...can someone give me a quick step by step for this job that won't lead to me spraying my face with gasoline? tia andrew

yeah should have seen that coming. should have made "in addition" bold and blinking i know it's no latch, but it passes my tightness test. if i can shake the car with no play in the seat it's tight enough. no matter wtf i do i can never get just a belt that tight.

yeah yeah yeah, read the part that says "i use this in ADDITION to the seat belt mount" so it's mounted like any other baby seat in a loyale with these used to just help get it a little tighter then what you can get with just belts. so the way i see it my baby will "fly" about 1/2" tops before the seat belt does it's job. within that space if it breaks, the seat belt does what it would have done anyway, but some of the intertia will have been dampened by the mounts bending or breaking.

thanks, i think i did see that already. i just need to order up the remotes and actuator. my problem is i'm too picky about the remotes, some of them look so crappy. i guess i'll just get over it once they are locking/unlocking my doors from 10ft away

hey all, thought i'd share another mod i did while i was installing my stereo. we have an 11 month old and since my wife stopped working to stay at home i had to put my new nissan truck up for sale and get the suby and an old beater truck to replace it and the stupid monthly payments. so aside from the power windows working after you pull the key and the remote door lock the other thing i liked about the nissan was the Latch system for baby seats. so when i got the suby, i figured i'd just make my own. i wanted to get a long u bolt to make this, but i coulnd't find one and i was too lazy to make one. so instead i used a long eye bolt. overall it works pretty good. there is some flex in it, and it doesn''t seem as strong as an U bolt would be, but it seems like it would take a lot to break it from it's mounting. i mounted it with nylon lock nuts and big washers and i had to grind the eyelet down a little so the clips on the seat could fit. the only caution i have for this mod is watch out for the passenger side one it is very close to the fuel lines. since there was some flex in the system i use this in -addition- to the seat belt method of mounting the baby seat. after using the Latch system, seat belts never really seem tight enough for me, so using both gives me a tight fit and a little added insurance incase my mod doesn't hold up in an accident. anyway here's some pics, enjoy...

thanks for all the legwork guys, i'll try to get into my wiring soon and test out these ideas. after that i just need to install some remote door locks. this whole key in the door sucks when you have a baby to move around! i was way to spoiled by my remote locks on my nissan.

because i didn't have two half sheets of MDF sitting in my garage besides MDF drives me crazy. -droo

thats, the plan, just wondering if anyone knows what wire to splice, cause i hate guessing

hey anyone ever wired their power windows so they work all the time? i was spoiled by my nissan that would at least let them work until you opened the door so i figure why not just wire them up to always work. anyone know which wire to splice into? cheers droo ps. cleaning the switches totally fixed my previous window issues, thanks!

true, when i had looked there was some brand i haven't heard off. i'll have another look. i did find a cheap magnacor set for the loyale... http://www.alamomotorsports.com/products.html?http://www.alamomotorsports.com/Magnecor/mag_subaru.html not dirt cheap, but not much more than NGKs from other online dealers anyone know if there are any issues using those in a 94? it list it as a 85-93. thanks droo

thanks, yeah stealth is the way to go, i'd love to use the cargo cover, but i think my dogs would be a little annoyed oh, btw, here's some pics of other boxes i've made, where i actually took my time... this was in my lifted turbo toy, it was a sweet set up and the really trick part was that i trimed and moved the center console up 3" or so to fit the box. man i miss this truck... http://odometer.org/cars/index.cgi?&path=cars/past_cars/1986_toyota_turbo_4x4_truck/IMG_3647.jpg this was in my mazda truck, the rear extra cab was where my dogs hung out so i built this box and then make a dog bed for each side for them to lay on... http://odometer.org/cars/index.cgi?&path=cars/past_cars/mazda_truck/IMG_4367.jpg these looked nicer, and were more complex, but took me day to build. i did the suby one in like 3.5 hours

okay so i got into our subi yesterday and scaped and scrubbed the dizzy cap clean and WOW what a diff. it had a big gain of power on the low end and i even had my wife confirm it so i was sure it wasn't just a placebo affect. i told her..."oh...i think i made it worse"....she came back thinking i was crazy. so now that that's helped, i think i just want to freshen up the spark action. so any good place to get stuff, brands you recommend? are caps from kragen good enough or cheap hencho in mexico stuff? i'm not looking to spend big bucks, just trying to clean up my spark and get some better milage and a little more gusto. i'd consider a new coil if people really think it's worth it, but like i said, i don't want to go too crazy. cheers droo

hey guys, a week or so ago i put in a systems for our loyale. it's nothing too fancy, a pioneer mp3/cd head with two RF amps, a 120x2 and 100x2 (bridged for a 10" RF sub), some new 6.5 pioneers in the front and 5.5 pioneers in the rear. i was going to cut the rears and use the existing wiring for the 5.5's (there were no rear OEM speakers, but i found the wiring) then i read that they use a common ground set up, so i scrapped that since i didn't want to bother wiring to the back doors. so instead i built the 5.5's into the sub box. i did this box -really- fast with wood i had left over from building my garage. it's nothing to brag about, but it sounds pretty good, and since we have a dog barrier it just sits in that dead space and really doesn't impact our cargo area. the 6.5's... test fitting the basic box with the dog barrier... cut away view of the box in progress. the side spaces are for the 5.5 that will point upward. i made it so the sub was inset so i could wrap the whole thing in carpet and hide the sub... add some caulk to make up for my horrendous hack job i call carpentry... one more test fit before carpeting... and the finished product, unsuspecting thump... at first the 100x2 sub that was bridged was a bit weak, but after cranking up the gain it sounds good. it's no monster, but it has more bass than the average system without annoying my wife, so it's all good. i was going to put the 6.5's on the 100x2, but i figure my head unit puts out that almost that much so i might was well put the 6.5s on the 120x2 to get a little more juice from them. i'll take more pics of the install once i get the black plastic dealy to properly mount my head unit. once i have that i plan on making some sort of fancy dock set up for my ipod...or i may go for the pioneer ipod interface and just keep the ipod hidden away. for now i mounted the belkin charger to a 12v outlet i wired behind the dash so the ipod just connects via a wire coming out the ash tray. enjoy. droo