HooptyGL
-
Posts
121 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by HooptyGL
-
-
ive got 125k on mine....and its 20 years old
-
Cause carburated EA82's are gutless and weak. Primarily owned by older women drivers who dont go past 70mph.
-Brian
whoa man speak for yourself....my hoopty wagon seldom travels under 80 mph on the highway...unless im going up hill.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9151&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
the weber is a definate improvement...it would be interesting to drag a carbed ea82 against an ea82T
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9163&sort=1&cat=500&page=1
the car has that much on the body...the previous owner blew up the original engine when the car had less than 99k on it...the jdm runs like top though.
-
just a question for those who might know....what year automobiles are eligable for 'historic' status in the constitution state??? are the restrictions placed on vehicles, like emissions for example, reduced? I really just want to know if i can get a vintage CT tag...and not have to deal with shady emissions dealings that CT is infamous for.
-
neal
-
Big bad hoopty doesn't wanna get his hands and back dirty, aww(I'm being mean b/c your being mean to your car, and I know you deserve crap for whining on this board). Seriously, if you want axles to live longer don't hot rod the car in the corners in 2wd, whenever that inside wheel is hopping your bound to break axles, especially the passenger side where the power goes first. I've broken more half shafts than I care to admit, but I also can change them really fast now. If your axle is thrashed drive in 4wd, it will relieve the stress on the bad axle. and if you want to be racecar driver than just run in 4wd all the time, you won't ever trash front axles, just everything else.
All you need is a 36mm plus braker bar, two 12mm, two 14mm, an axle pin punch, pair of pliers and a 4 or 5lb hammer, a flashlight and a big piece of carboard for the ground is also nice. just suck it up and get some lifetime axles. I've driven my brat with the welded rear end on only one good rear axle (drove really nice and steady that day).
-N
P.S. give a shout and I might be able to get you a cheep axle hookup in your area.
N baby thanks for the cv beta and the much needed smack down. Finals week...if you can call it that...starts next monday and im kinda scrambling to keep my grades high. I would definately be interested in that # for CV's, who do you know in my area?!?!?! Getting real cold out at night here, 6.8 degrees F last night....had to roll start the GL this morning to make it to class before 8. I'll give your phone a shot to get that #.
-
neal
-
i've put on about 15k on a new front right cv since march....95% of that highway speeds in excess of 80 mph.
since i've returned from my most recent trip to oregon the once barely audibale click is now both easilly felt while sitting in passenger, and as of tonight is felt while accelerating from drivers seat.
to say the very least im f-ing pissed...and do not want to go through replacing it my self as i have no time, no garage and very little money that can be devoted to the fix.
how long do yall think it can be driven on if it was mostly highway?
-
neal
-
The main thing is the transmissions are built for the EJ series engines and will be a direct bolt on transmission, designed to handle the increased power (so now adapter plates). There may be some cutting in the floor board for the dual range shifer to fit, but from what I have seen in the past with Subarus, the holes will allready be there.
so.....one of these d/r trans will be a direct-bolt-on application for later model ej series?
like a turbo charged 2.2 ej engine manufanctured pre-'95...for example...with no plate?!?!
if so...im f'ing in for one...i dont care how deep i've got to dig...i just hope it's reasonable.
neal
-
if you can go from vent to heat and back, you have vacuum. The switches might be at fault or the vacuum motor on the door flap.
wait, my dash doesnt have a vent button to push...i think my only vent is passive, and only comes from one vent to the left of the drivers wheel when the lever is flipped to the middle or low setting...not the dial that controls fan speed...so the car will blow air if i click a button a/c, heat, bi-level ect...
i think my troubles started when my weber went on...
ill check the vac lines
-
Mine does not change no matter how long I wait, so something has rendered it, ..... inoperative. The chiltons manual I have is little help on the interior and electrical stuff. I dont know if the doors are vacuum or electrical. If your telling me that getting to the heater/ac components does not require removing the dash, then I will try and dig into it.
good luck getting it to work again, the defroster on my 85 GL would need some time to get going and then would blow out the top, instead of the main vents. but....now it's not blowing through the defroster at all no matter what i do, just the ducts.
how common is this with the ea82's?
-
neal
-
did the 97 have the sohc or dohc in the 2.5?
-
neal
-
wow perfect timing, i would be very interested in purchasing one....but i need prices....looking to swap one into a 94 lego touring wagon, now i need an adapter plate.
please PM me with a price or post it here.
neal
-
can an ea82 d/r trans be 'swapped' into a 90-94 lego touring wagon (turbo w/ stock AT) with the kind loving help of an adapter plate, or am i dead wrong?
thought about it for a while and searched the board for posts for an ea82 d/r trans. application for a turbo lego engine and didn't find squat.
im sure i would run into a plethora of problems but i want to know what they would be.
-
neal
-
drain the oil and seive it, see if you find any gremilns that sank down to the bottom.
-
What '85-'86 model came with the ea82? (sorry, I'm new at the Subaru thing). I see that one of your sigs lists a "GL Wagon"; would that be all of them, or will I physically need to be opening hoods to check?
Thanks,
Todd
like that snowman in ak said.....any 85-86 4wd wagon has them. They only made GL and DL's....hope that helps a bit.
neal
-
running rich would be my guess, or in my case a complete lack of any type of emission controls and a weber carb. F cali and their smog reg's, Yavapai county in AZ doesn't give a damn...i just wont be able to go any where else w/ it.
neal
-
would a dual range trans found in 4wd ea82's be doable for this swap as well.
for example:
donor car an 85 or newer GL w/ dual range into
receiving car being a 94 awd lego turbo w/ at (duh)
-neal
-
looks really clean. i have never seen 4 lug alloys that look like that.
pulled those alloys from a junkyard in mt. vernon, wa back in august...got the line on it from a thread on this board. the alloys have removed body shake at high speeds. runs like a top...straight and narrow at 95mph, sometimes 100mph (downhill).
-
Mmm ego stroking,
looks nice Mr Man, but where's the hi-flow (ricer) exhaust pics and the rocketbox... get those rear discs going on, some limited slip in the rear, and crank up the adjustable coils (at least in the rear). Don't forget the dingle balls and keep the oil and coolant full on that 'new' motor. Happy holidays from winter wonderland, 6" of fresh and fluffy overnight out on the ranch.
-N
ill get pics of the catless ricer pipes and with the rocket box when i get the car up to rotate the tires this week. still no snow in the inter-mountain southwest but ive been praying.
did you get your rear disk swap done yet?!?!
i need a spring compressor to get the coils up a notch or two.
N - i was just in the eugene last week...picked 50+ lbs of chantrelles out 58 near fall creek...right around the place we went flying off the FS road and had to get the soob yanked by the ROTC kid with the yota colrola
best
neal
-
i cannot get it to display in the text....but the link is a shot of my rust free 85 wagon w/ about 60k on the cars second engine. odometer reads 120k and change.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=9142&size=big&sort=1&cat=500
-
anyone know the fuel economy for the ej20g? anybody got pics of one?
neal
-
hows your flow? after i put a bigger intake in and did borla 2.5 from the headers to the tail i noticed about 4 mpg difference. maybe your cat(s) are shrapnel and causing your pipes to choke the flow.
just a thought.
neal
-
It's possible having too much gear oil in your trans could make some noise. As subiemech said, air in the cooling system will definitely cause some noise, but it will be up by the heater core. Of course, it's sometimes hard to locate noises when you're in the driver's seat. Whenever I have a noise I'm trying to isolate, I have someone else drive while I poke around. If it is coming from the heater core, it's an easy fix. You just need to get the air out of the system. To do that, take the cap off and squeeze and release the upper radiator hose, kind of like milking it. Slowly add coolant as you get the air out. It works better if you have the nose of the car pointed uphill. Also make sure your overflow bottle has coolant in it, the hose between the radiator and the bottle is good, and you've got a good cap.
i suppose both diff's could use a once over...i bought the car w/ 99k on the clock and a jdm 'low miles' engine that just got swapped in...now its got 120k and i havent looked at the diff fluids in 20k or so.
suppose ill switch to synth gear oil and milk the radiator like you said i should.
mmmmmmmmmm coolantpretty sure the cap is good...swaped it at a jiffy lube in joshua tree not too long ago after they took the vaccum to the radiator after a near-block-death experience.
thanks!
neal
-
Cat caught in the front U-joint?
uh no, wait lemme check........
no,there are definately no felines dragging along my underside.
the noise is definately something liquid that is going somewhere...and along the way reaches a point near my hand brake and starts making this long, squishy fart noise like a liquid would do when it is being pushed somewhere.
no one has ever hear this in a 5speed ea82?!?!?!
i'd hate to be the person who owned a one-of-a-kind subie that made fart noises when you shift gears up or down.
neal
-
its not the exaust....i think its gotta be the gear box or maybe the trans.
ANYBODY ELSE have this happen before?
neal
-
I've begun to notice that when i wind up my '85 GL ea82 in any gear i get this squishy noise right below the D/R shifter. it sounds like a really gross wet fart and can last until about 3k rpm. i suspect it's my gear oil but am unsure. anyone else have this happen on their 5speed ea82? is my car gonna die!?!?!?!?
neal
Milkshake any one?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I tried (again) to get my car to turn over with the key today to no avail...so i rolled it into town...parked it....and let it sit to see if it would idle - it died twice on the three mile drive down the hill - and it did the shudder-putter-shudder and did not want to stay fired up. Upon popping the hood i smelled oil burning but had no smoke...oil was coming down from the pan onto the skid plate...check the dip stick and i find a thick gross layer of hersheys.
so..cracked block or headgasket is my guess, thus coolant in the oil.
its not getting driven any where except up the lift to pull the exaust and get scoped.
who's got the record on tear down and full re-build?!?!
seriously though - how long am i gonna be at this?
or should i forgo the ea82 block entirely and source a lego engine?
now im stuck driving my special-lady-friends cherokee classic:rolleyes: