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Posts posted by 1maBrat
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Ok so here's a better look at the cargo cover I'm doing on the Brat. Also am putting in the column from my XT6 (no tilt as removing that feature, just telescopic), and yes all the buttons will be operational. Just not for all the original things on it.
The cover is my own project from scratch having worked in fibre glassing for many years. Very easy project for any one to challenge. Just need an old sheet, some resin and go hard. Complete write up on Brat to follow project with all photo's. Am putting a window in the cover to veiw back in the shape of the new Subaru emblem.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13629&cat=728
Lots more XT6 parts to add, everything done so far is done without cutting or welding, except the fender wells and frame rails.
What do you think ??
Thanks
1maBrat
Dale:banana:
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I just had a crazy idea... could you stick the wheels (meaning entire hubs, brakes, struts, etc) from an older legacy on an EA81 wagon. This would get you larger brakes, taller stiffer struts, and 5 lug wheels. I'm imagining taking the whole front steering rack and suspension assembly and putting in on there, modifying the mounting points for the A arms and rear stabilizers so it would bolt on, and for the rear taking the entire swing arms, etc. Of course, I still want the tranny from the EA82 D/R, so I'd have use the rear diff from an EA82, and do custom axles between the EJ22 hubs and EA82 diffs. If I'm doing all the welding and spacers for lifting it 2 or 3 inches anyway, would it really be that much worse to put legacy stuff on it? Or am I insane... I haven't really looked at a legacy recently to see if it's even built on the same principle...
Z
Yes you can take any of the late 80's front control arms and bolt them on your EA-81 cross member, its a direct swap but be careful, it moves your front wheels about 2" forward and out about the same,if you take it from the strut and off the cross member the only change you need to make is to drill out the pattern for the three bolt strut top.Be Sure to weld some heavy washers over the holes you drill.you will also need to have new radius rod made and these need to made to measure as the years you use make a diffrence.You may also need to use a ream to fit the steering rack to the joint as this may also be diffrent.
I've done it to my EA-71 Brat and it looks wild.
I have no advise on the rear yet as i used spacers to get the same distance for the rear.
Good luck as you go.
Thanks
1maBrat
Dale
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you might check out subarubrat.com. I know his is an ea81 brat but he might be able to help you with your wiring.
great idea I will check out the site, checked with the General and also posted on board, and am getting good help from you all and learning piles from the board usage. I read it a couple times a day and love the things that people are doing to Sube's " the most incredible machine on the planet"
Thanks for all the advice and help to now
1maBrat, Dale
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Is that a ea71 GL? Your so lucky! I want one. Will be cool having more H6 mods done here.
The wiring can be hard to figure out. Basiclly it should be similar to a EJ harness. Which you need the main relay (the one that the igntion switch switches) the fuel relay all the wires form these relays to the ECU. All the wires from engine to ECU (might not need all of them, but easier to just take them all) There might be a few other things, there may not. The ECU will need a constant power, a igntion power, and a earth. All the sensors and engine things should be powered through the ECU.
Don't trust what I say though, I haven't even tested my EJ loom yet, haha! That will come soon!
Keep us updated
Yes sireee she's an ea71, 11/77 Brat, check out the pics in my album to see some of the work on her as yet.
thanks for your comments on the wiring, much appreciated.
1mabrat
Dale:cool:
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Nice.
It might be easier to let the BRAT harness power the starters lights and all of the other stuff and have the XT-6 harness power the engine.
That is the route I am going with my EJ BRAT.
have fun.
BW
Thats my plan but im not sure how to get power to the ecu and where to take it from.The ecu plugs into the back of the engine with only 2 big plugs,one white and one black, i have the diagrams for the xt6 but not sure of how to get the power to those plugs.Whe n i took the car apart i just unpluged everything,and now have a HUGE pile of wire.thats all i know about electricity.
Any help would be greatly appreatiated.
Thanks
1mabrat
Dale
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Its been a lot of cutting and busted knuckles but i got it all to fit,have to do some custom fabbing yet for the rad but i have great and never done plans for that.I am putting together a so called "Brag Book"as i go and will post it when its all in and running.
Thanks
1mabrat
Dale:banana:
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Thanks in advance for any and all help.
As most regulars here know,this project has been going for a while now,and the work is slow as i own my own company and it takes most of my time.
Well here is my latest problem.I can turn a wrench as well as the best of them, but i know nothing about electrical wiring.So here goes ,i need to piggyback the er wiring onto the original wiring harness,i have all the wire from the xt6 and all relays and puters ,so i am looking for some type of diagram to show me what i need .
Thanks
1mabrat
Dale
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Here is what I'm doing with my '77 Brat and my old XT6 which wouldnt pass inspection. Have taken the H6 and mated it to an '88 Loyale, 5 spd d/r, with a 3.90 gear ratio. Have got the rails cut and engine and tranny fit well. Just need to figure out all the electrical. If anyone can help with info on splicing the two harnesses all comments would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
1maBrat
Dale
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13333&cat=728
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I called my local Subaru dealership and inquired about the price of the Duty B and C solenoids in my transmission. They told me that they are $250 each and they will have to order them. I thought that was a little steep for a couple of small parts. Has anyone purchased these in the US and, if so, what kind of money did you pay for them?
The reason I ask is because I recently needed a small part on another vehicle I own and found quite the descrepancy between US and Canadian prices. There is a small temp sensor on the exterior of my transmission on the 2002 Honda Odyssey I own and it needs to be replaced (unscrew, remove, screw in new one). I called my local Honda dealer and they told me it would be $130 plus taxes and it was order only (the damned vehicle is only a few years old!) I play BF2 online with guy in the US who works for the parts department of a Honda dealership and he is shipping me the same part for $40 including the shipping, what a difference!!
Hey Kilroy,i also live in Edmonton AB.i own a 77 BRAT and am putting a 2.7l in it from an xt6 with a 5spd d/r:headbang: .we could get together some time if you like and see what we know together,i live in the west end of the city.Send me a pm if you want to get together some time and i can send you my #
1mabrat
Dale
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I dont know about up there but down here you can get in major trouble for less than that for "impersonating a police officer." friend of mine got nailed for painting his front running lights blue on his cadilac and having a spotlight on the a pillar.
Looks cool though
I'd get some covers on those lights for driving around on the street.
Oh Yes definately will have covers, law is same here and will not be on the brat in street mode, these lights are only in Off road mode.... this is only in fun with the gang.
:cool:
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An (old) new set of lights for some "Off roading " fun.
Not yet hooked up but all funtional. This is the newer of the 2 that I picked up. A perfect fit in width and abit lower than the rollbar. Will raise the light bar so they can be seen from the rear as well. More updates to come as we progress.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/misc.php?action=showalbums
Should be good for a laugh to see the reactions as everyone scatters *EG*
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Thanks for all the advice, I still haven't seen anything that looks better than the one I posted in the link above though. I just need to find something like that. There's a ten page thread on a Toyota forum about the one I'm trying to find:
http://tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?p=223602#post223602
Tank: will only fill a couple of tires based on what I've read, maybe three or four since mine are not that large, but of course it'll only do that once until you refill it. This is quoted from an off road equipment site: "A 5-gallon air tank pressurized to 125 p.s.i. will air up two (2) 33X12.5" truck tires from 10 to 20 p.s.i" I found other references to similar numbers as well.
A/C compressor: You guys are talking about using the belt-driven one on the car, is that right? No way I'm giving up my a/c for this. Utah = very warm and this is my daily driven commuter vehicle. Or did I misunderstand about the method?
Hodaka: Yes, that's the kind of thing I want, but (if I can believe specs I read) the one I posted flows 72 liters / minute, which is around 2.5 cfm. The one you're talking about is 1.2 cfm. The other models are better but quickly climb in price.
I have a little cigarette lighter jobby and it takes a long time to fill the tires and sounds like it's going to rattle apart. Maybe there's better cheapo ones but I just wanted to see if there was some middle ground unit that won't break the bank but would do better. The one I posted (which is turning out to be hard to find) and the one Hodaka posted are the kind of thing I'm looking for. Thanks for the feedback.
Steve
just add on a bracket and put on a second pump,and its much faster than anything you can get out of any store.you can run a propane tank up to about 220 lbs before the valve goes so be careful,but its fast and is with you always
I would not do this for my daily driver just my offroad.
Just what i think and what i use
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Can anyone recommend a good portable 12v air compressor (for tires) that's better than the cheap $15 plastic ones but not hundreds of dollars? I'm not finding much with my searching.
A portable unit that clips to the battery terminals is preferred (not hardwired). I want to be able to reinflate my tires (205/75/15 A/T's) after airing them down, I don't want to wait an hour to do so, but the $300 units for big mudder tires seem like overkill and I'd rather not spend that much for something rarely used. Will I find something in the <$100 range that will do what I want it to do, or is it just wishful thinking?
Steve
if you run an a/c compressor you can fill a small propane tank in just a few min to about 150 lbs so it is air on the fly ,just put in a switch so you can turn it off when you don't need it.you might also want to put in a bleed off drain so you can drain the water from the tank because it will fill quite quick if you dont stay up on it:banana:
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Regarding the Subie price, we have a written appraisel for our " 79 Brat " it is stated as being worth $3942.65 CDN. that was 1 yr ago. That is what we needed for our Insurance but then if you don't have replacement value listed on your policy the most Insurance companies go with the cheapest they can get away with.
If this would help you we can email a copy to you.
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These wheel spacers are made to fit Standard 6 bolt pattern, 6 on 5 1/2 and are adapted to 5 on 4 1/2 , adding spacers ONLY adds 2 1/2 inches to your stance. I would like to have these made on a Subaru 4 bolt, to Chevy 6 bolt, and was wondering what the interest would be if I had them made .anyone????
I am presently using these spacers only on my 78 Brat, PICS INCLUDED .
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=13363
Comments welcome and apreciated, thanks in advance, Dale
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Well i decided to take the Brat off the road for the winter and do some mods.
The first thing is the er27 with a 5spd D/R ea82 turbo running as a supercharger/belt driven.The rad will be top mount.I will take pics as i go so you all can see this is for real.I want to keep the truck as low as possible but with as much ground clearance as possible,i think 14-16inches will do.This may take a while and i may need some help,so keep your brains in gear for me with any good help.
Thanks in advance for all your tips.
1mabrat
ps. won't be in gargae too long
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yes i have a set but am up here in canada. i could send them for you for free but you would have to pay the shiping. you can pm me if you are interested.
1mabrat
Hi again,I know most of you are from the US but i was wondering if anyone would be able to give me a rough price on how much the early Sunraysias would cost from a wrecker.
heres a pic if you don't know what wheels im talking about
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wag8589.jpg
Thanks again
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Yes I like hatches as well but just look at my brat,its comming along
can you tell me how much you had to modify the frame rails to get that 2.7 in there as that my plan for this Brat,with a 5sps d/rand 33x12.50and 3in lift.
do you have any pics you can send me of how it was done
Thank in advance for any pics
1mabrat
hatchbacks are the best!_! -
New light bar added in our long line of mod's to come.
Would love to start a Canadian chapter of this fantastic web site ??
Will be great to be able to challenge our neighbouring friends in wheeling so
come out, come out where ever you are .... we play with all makes and models.
No discrimination here, everyone knows "nothing wheels like a sube"
~Dale & Joan ~
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=13363
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Ok, I have come to know that there are some REALLY creative people here at USMB.
And I know that many here have lifted their subee GL's, DL's, Loyal's and many others. In-turn many have had to make ingenious fender mods
I would love to see or read how you did it!
"Knowledge is power":headbang:
Thanks:)
The best way i found is to take a pair of tin snips,and cut up into the fender about 1 inch all the way around to make tabs then bend up all the tabs you made. then you need a small hammer to bend in all the sharp little points you made between the tabs.this will make it look as though nothing was done ,if you take your time and will also stop from cutting your tires if you hit a little too hard now and then.you can look at mine if you search small lift done in the forum search .
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Has anyone turbo'a a stock EA81 Non - Turbo Engine ?
If so would anyone have the timing specs and boost limits ?
~Dale & Joan~
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That's genius, is it a straight swap?
It depends on the year that you are working on,but yes the arms are a straight swap.you must get radius rod made to lenght to fit what you are doing.Mine are 19 1/2 inches.
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Tires are 215-70-R15 on new 6 bolt white rims. Yes they rub abit if you go to sharply over a big bump but ok as a daily driver. Still updating the wheel hubs had new radius rods made special to move the wheels forward more. Also using '92 Loyale control arms. It moves the wheels about 2 1/2 inches forward.
So guess she's turning into a Sube Mini monster Still to add 1.8LT ( which is sitting in the garage waiting to go in) w/dual range 5 speed
here's my happy dance hahahaha
All the comments are appreciated and advice welcome.
Thanks to all who replied.
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Looks Great!!can`t wait to get my 78:)
how hard was the 6 lug conv.?what other mods are you planning?lift?
Jon
its not tuff i did it on the floor of my garage with a hand drill
the cargo cover and new steering
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
Yes the top will be removable as the roll bars need to go back in while in 4 x 4 mode. Also the steering column is XT6, the fin on the back is XT6 as well as the front suspension is XT6.
Motor is XT6, 2.7 ltr, matched to an 87 5 spd d/r
XT pressure plate and fly wheel.
And yep the garage is always a mess in progress, but couldn't find any thing if it wasn't
Thanks for all the comments and glad some think its cool.
1maBrat
Dale