wildhair

Probably too late on this. But I'd use the KISS principle. You can try Rust's trick. Or just replace the oil pump. It's easy to get to and replace. And cheap. I'd skip the water pump for now, not as easy to get to. Do it when timing belts are replaced or it starts leaking. I replaced one once as preventative maintenance, PITA. It was first the wrong one (dealer air conditioning has different pulley offset than factory air, so I had to remove and adjust the pulley) then it turned out to be defective and leaked right out of the box, had to do it again! And sealing that stupid water pipe was a pain too. (it's easier if you don't have a/c) If it ain't broke don't fix it!

Umm, yeah. As I said, if you read my OP; I replaced all the idlers and tensioners 35000 miles ago, when I replaced the belts. I broke a belt after 35000 miles, with brand new tensioners and idlers, with only 35k miles on everything. Seemingly uncontimated. No rags. (bummer about that) So, I know you like to run without covers. So do I. Has anyone got full life expectancy from their belts without covers? As in real world long term experience? Thanks

Just wondering if anyone has long term experience running without timing belt covers. I replaced the belts and idlers/tensioners 35k mi ago, just broke the long (left) belt. I also replaced cam seals at the time and completely removed all covers. I kept an eye on the belts, they never seemed to get wet or dirty, and didn't get oil on them that I could tell. Maybe a fluke? Has 190k mi on it now. What's a good belt. I picked up a belt at Autozone yesterday, Kelly Springfield. I looks really thin. I think I'll go find a Gates, unless you all know of a nice thick upgrade belt? It would be cool if there was an industrial application that would fit.

OK thanks. Thought I had that figured out but I was wrong. Your question not stupid, just me. New codes showed up today. 33, then just now 24. 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit Whatever those are. Back to the books!

I did a few days ago. My understanding is that just gets the historical codes, the car flashes the codes all by itself. So, a few days ago I got 8 and 33 I think (the one about speed sensor). Then I connected both sets for a day to clear all codes. Then yesterday I got a CEL, and a code 8 was flashing (got the code by not connecting anything).

Seriously? April 1st was two weeks ago- A check engine light coming on to tell you 'all is well'? Just to bring them in to the dealer? Time to get out the electrical tape, or pull the bulb...

I get the quick 8 count, just 8 8 8 8 8 8.... I don't see any codes listed below eleven. Any help? Thanks

If you don't know the history of the vehicle, I highly recommend replacing the idlers, and front engine seals while you are in there. (Unless you can verify nothing is leaking, which is doubtful). Check on Ebay for "86-94 Subaru 1.8 GL DL Loyale Master Timing Belt Kit". It's $90 plus shipping (from Yakima) and includes all the goodies you may consider replacing. You may get a better deal from them directly. If the car has higher mileage, you might consider swapping the water pump too (although I had bad luck with a replacement pump once, so maybe "if it ain't broke, don't"). It's not hard, but you do have to dig pretty deep so it might take a while. But you've come to the right place. I bet most everyone here has done it more than once... Roughly: pull fan(s), radiator, alt, AC compressor if you've got one (just put it out of the way) remove crank pulley, then timing covers. There you are!

Before you dive in, it would be wise to consider the advise here. If you can get the engine all cleaned up good first, verify the location(s) of the leak. (Much easier to find if you didn't have those pesky timing belt covers, I know.) Nothing worse than doing all that work and not fixing it. It might even be worth buying some of that dye and use a UV light (or blacklight) to track that leak down, before you take the oil pan off. That should be last resort. Or just wait until next timing belt change, get the Ebay 'master' kit which includes idlers and all the seals and gaskets for the engine (except rear main and oil pan) for like, $80. Then you can clean it up nice, do all the work once. Then you'll know for sure where (if) it leaks. Only things left would be heads or cam tower and oil pan. I bet you have multiple leaks, like I did. Mine was an oily mess, just as you describe. I had leaks on one cam seal, crank seal, one valve cover, the oil pump, plus after it was clean I found the filler tube was loose. Oil all down the front and burning on the cat. Hard to tell with the timing belt covers in place. I left them off this time.

Well, I've sure noticed a change at the local pick and pull. Used to be they'd have a half dozen of the eighties EA82 style cars at any time, now lucky to have one or two. Everything's now late 80's - early 90's. I guess it's time for me to 'upgrade' to that '96 2.2 outback now that used parts are cheap?

I've been fiddling with the thing, off and on, for the past three + months. If it is fuel related it has nothing to do with old gas. I have vehicles that start right up on two year old gas without stabilizer. Not the best storage method, granted. Fogging oil or OMC engine tune is the way to go for storage. But this problem started on fresh gas, and it now runs ok (for the moment) on the same gas. I don't believe that contributed. With an electric fuel pump she should never have been starved for gas, unless the filter is plugged. And if that is the case - silly me...

No, that wasn't it either. I finally sprayed some fuel into the intake and it ran for a moment. Subsequently I have the car running, and just drove it a few miles. So I don't know. It could have been that I replaced the faulty part somewhere along the way, and the car had sat so long and wasn't getting fuel. (car died in August) I don't believe it was fuel all along, but it may have been. Really odd that I couldn't find spark from the coil, and replacing it fixed it for a day. Or it may be that the car is trying to lure me far from home so it can leave me stranded again! <Ala Christine!> I will finish up with wires, air and fuel filters, and see how many more miles I can put on the old gal. 180,000 now, should be good for another 60k. Thanks for hanging with me and for the answers to my questions! Scott

Gloyale- Thanks for hitting me in the head with the obvious! As it happens I had been using the same cap and rotor. Unfortunately swapping them out for new parts has had no effect. Cougar- Actually, no. If you see my first post the silly thing seems to stumble on occasion. Just not enough spark to really count. So I'm no closer now than I ever was, just more money spent...

I replaced the ignition amplifier and the coil bracket itself. No Start. It did stumble, but won't start. Spark is weak and orange when I hold a plug close to ground. By the way, the amplifier was held on with two screws and the wires from it, although they appear to go into the wiring harness at first glance, just loop back to the coil. So, still no go. This car is getting close to scrapped... Thanks for your help though!

More good stuff guys, thanks a lot. I saw the CPS in the dist, just thought that was the ignitor from past experiences. Didn't know about the ignition amplifier. Seems to me it is hard wired in to the main harness, but I'll look again. Do I need to strip the wires back to find a connector? Cut and splice? I think I didn't swap the amplifier out because it looked hard-wired, so I don't think I swapped the bracket either. So the ground or amplifier seem likely suspects... I'll definately get back in a couple days, either way. Thanks again. Scott