and i took some (poor quality) video of it and i wanted to see what you guys thought about it.

 

so background...

92 Loyale,

EA82 - 3AT

103k miles

 

has been running a little sluggish, i cleaned the MAF with some intake cleaner and let it dry the other day, but its been a bit sluggish before that. its got new plugs, wires (7mm), fuel filter, oil is up to proper level (it does leak some but not more than a spot the size of a quarter or so a day, i keep it topped up)

 

Hesistates when accelerating which im guessin since its 17 yrs old, the timing belt is ready to be changed since its about at that mileage.

 

so, check out what happens when i start it up as of yesterday....

 

i just started it up, and let it do its thing, i shifted into reverse a few times too. rpms sometimes drop down the point it almost stops the engine, and one time it did actually stall out.

 

the sounds really low but you can possibly see whats going on from the tach. i'll try this again when i get my video camera back from work.

 

any thoughts? im hoping someone who has watched this has had the same thing or knows where to start. I dont want to do more extra work that didnt necessarily need to be done if i dont have to.

 

Thanks guys... its gettin cold out and the harley isnt too good in the snow.

Edited October 24, 200916 yr by xbeerd

Could be the IAC, For starters - check its connection first and clean it. also clean the Coolant temp sensors plug tag connection (Its right on the housing for the Thermostat - maybe even use some of that connection jelly.

 

Also, you can have the engine suck about 1/2 can of SeaFoam thru the Brake booster hose - let the engine stall on it, let it sit for 15 or 20min then re-fire. The Seafoam will eat away any grim that could be clogging any air passages and such. And yes, all the white smoke coming out of the exhaust will be normal for a few minutes (Let it all blow out) and see if this helps your ideling issue - if not its still a good idea to do this.

 

As for the other half of the can, just poor it into your fuel tank to clean the fuel system aswell.

-Tom

Could be the IAC, For starters - check its connection first and clean it. also clean the Coolant temp sensors plug tag connection (Its right on the housing for the Thermostat - maybe even use some of that connection jelly.

 

Also, you can have the engine suck about 1/2 can of SeaFoam thru the Brake booster hose - let the engine stall on it, let it sit for 15 or 20min then re-fire. The Seafoam will eat away any grim that could be clogging any air passages and such. And yes, all the white smoke coming out of the exhaust will be normal for a few minutes (Let it all blow out) and see if this helps your ideling issue - if not its still a good idea to do this.

 

As for the other half of the can, just poor it into your fuel tank to clean the fuel system aswell.

-Tom

 

Thanks G, I will investigate that IAC some more.

 

I think since im bored at work i'll print out that EA82 manual so i can have a copy in the garage and waste company paper supplies at the same time, but atleast i know it wont be as bad as the '00 outback manual that was a stack of paper about 9" tall when i was done. HAHAH

Thanks G, I will investigate that IAC some more.

 

I think since im bored at work i'll print out that EA82 manual so i can have a copy in the garage and waste company paper supplies at the same time, but atleast i know it wont be as bad as the '00 outback manual that was a stack of paper about 9" tall when i was done. HAHAH

 

Haha ok, good luck wasting the companys money :-p

 

-Tom

of course, today the car is running pretty good.

Hmm, how are the plugs? Could be giving you a non-consistant spark once in a while (Thats just a guess) Also the cap might be arcing causing burning on the posts of the Cap.

 

Have you replaced, cap, rotor, plugs/wires as of yet? I'd go with NGK BPR6ES plugs and NGK wires for starters.

 

-Tom

Hmm, how are the plugs? Could be giving you a non-consistant spark once in a while (Thats just a guess) Also the cap might be arcing causing burning on the posts of the Cap.

 

Have you replaced, cap, rotor, plugs/wires as of yet? I'd go with NGK BPR6ES plugs and NGK wires for starters.

 

-Tom

 

 

The guy i got it from put new plugs and wires on, i havent checked the cap, it seems pretty clean though. i'll see if i get a chance tomorrow to check the brands, but i cant see it being THAT big of a difference with different plugs and wires if they are new. but i guess most of my experience is with other cars... not old rump roast subarus'

You will a little diffrence with the NGKs over a cheep brand or Bosh ect - I notied a pretty big difrence when I change over to NGK a few years ago.

 

How new is your fuel filter? Its up by the wiper motor on the drivers side - thats something else that is mostly over looked when having poor idle.

 

-Tom

You will a little diffrence with the NGKs over a cheep brand or Bosh ect - I notied a pretty big difrence when I change over to NGK a few years ago.

 

How new is your fuel filter? Its up by the wiper motor on the drivers side - thats something else that is mostly over looked when having poor idle.

 

-Tom

 

that was also replaced y0!

that was also replaced y0!

 

 

Hmm, hows it running today?

Hmm, hows it running today?

 

i think it was probably running as good as it was previous to the days before i was having that crazy idle issue. but it still seems like its lacking some power, seems to be intermittent. I ordered timing belt and tensioners and such so i'll replace that but in the mean time i'll see whats up with the cap/rotor etc

i think it was probably running as good as it was previous to the days before i was having that crazy idle issue. but it still seems like its lacking some power, seems to be intermittent. I ordered timing belt and tensioners and such so i'll replace that but in the mean time i'll see whats up with the cap/rotor etc

 

it ran pretty good after work today, the hesitating seems like it is intermittent. like, you give it gas and its sluggish, and as the rpms rise it'll hiccup to life for a sec, then ther power levels out and then it comes to life again... knaww meen (know what i mean) ??

Hmm, I know what you mean. I have something kinda simular with mine. Most of the time if you are leaving a parking lot then need to get out onto the road and give it the gas - it seems bog in a way for a sec or two then the power is there. Also sometimes if you punch it from a dead stop it feels as if not all the power is there untill 2000 or more. I don't understand it lol. The only thing I havn't cleaned is the IAC. SO I dunno ?

 

Good luck with the T-belts (Its easy enough)

 

-Tom

Hmm, I know what you mean. I have something kinda simular with mine. Most of the time if you are leaving a parking lot then need to get out onto the road and give it the gas - it seems bog in a way for a sec or two then the power is there. Also sometimes if you punch it from a dead stop it feels as if not all the power is there untill 2000 or more. I don't understand it lol. The only thing I havn't cleaned is the IAC. SO I dunno ?

 

Good luck with the T-belts (Its easy enough)

 

-Tom

 

the lame idling seems to have worked itself out. but still the rpms sit around 600 or so and power is ALMOST non existent, however, sometimes when driving it'll be chugging along accellerating and hten i'll hear a click (like a relay trippin) from under the dash and it'll get some more power. the only thing i dont recall is if that was with or with out the defrost or heater or something on.

I have an 88 GL - EA82-SPFI-3AT. I was noticing similar symptoms until I had cleaned out the MAF, and the IAC, but then the idling issue got really bad. I took a multimeter and couldn't get a reading from the CTS, it LOOKED ok, but I got a CTS from Subex here, put it in and my power loss and idling issues went away. Further examination of the suspected broken CTS revealed that one of the connections to the CTS (under the rubber connection wires, right where they connect to the metal of the sensor) was off. When I connected it on the bench, I was able to get a reading from the MM. So...those three things were it for me - MAF, IAC and CTS.

I have an 88 GL - EA82-SPFI-3AT. I was noticing similar symptoms until I had cleaned out the MAF, and the IAC, but then the idling issue got really bad. I took a multimeter and couldn't get a reading from the CTS, it LOOKED ok, but I got a CTS from Subex here, put it in and my power loss and idling issues went away. Further examination of the suspected broken CTS revealed that one of the connections to the CTS (under the rubber connection wires, right where they connect to the metal of the sensor) was off. When I connected it on the bench, I was able to get a reading from the MM. So...those three things were it for me - MAF, IAC and CTS.

 

 

 

Whats the CTS? (it wouldnt let me search the term)

 

EDIT: think i found it, Coolant temp sensor?

Edited October 30, 200916 yr by xbeerd

Whats the CTS? (it wouldnt let me search the term)

 

EDIT: think i found it, Coolant temp sensor?

 

Yes thats it, its right on the same housing your t-stat is.

 

As for the "tick" relay thought, well the Defrost nor the heating system has a relay that opens and closes - at least not that you'll hear. So its gonna be one of those noises you'll never figure out :-p

If your idleing to low, bring the idle up. on the left side of the throttle body (Facing it) there is a standard head screw, adjust it in or out to change the idle RPM. Autos should idle when hot about 750 - 900RPM when it park. In drive it should go down to 550 - 650RPM.

 

-Tom