xbeerd

just thought i'd add in here.. i added the crossmember spacers from 00-04 on for mine to help out the axles. they fit as well, but i had to cut the end of it off to make it work. there is a curve towards the firewall that was getting in the way because of different frame size. its about 1.25" as well. i looked but i dont think a picture of it exists on the internet,

ok, i just wasnt sure if the sunroof drains could let water get down in there if they were just draining into the body with no hoses at the rear. the rear seats carpet was soaked when i got the car from dude, sad thing is, he's the kinda hack job that woulda caulked the sunroof shut when it was leaking and the cables pulled out. but i guess he was too drunk that year to do any hackjob at all. very non derserving subaru owner. ugh.

ok, i just didnt know how much drilling out a hole from above would affect the structure. those Rivnuts look pretty damn cool!

my 99 LGT had a leaky sunroof for a while due to the previous owner being a douchebag owner. the drain hoses had come off and he was too stupid to know how to repair, so im gonna be dropping the rear cross member and trailing arm brackets, im wondering the probability of the welded nuts that they bolt into being rusted/siezed up inside the frame due to the water leak? anyone dealt with this before? if it is siezed up or if the welded nut busts off due to slight siezing, can i just drill a hole thru the top of the frame and stick a socket on it? and then afterwards, i assume i just weld it shut? thanks.. (Mods: if this is better suited elsewhere please feel free to move it)

yeah, thats one of the things on my list of things to do once it gets to a reasonable temperature. getting tired of this cold rump roast weather. EDIT: you in NY, probably are getting just as bent about weather as i am!

I have a 240k mile EA D/R combined with a EJ25 (in a loyale), i think it holds up just fine, granted i dont beat it TOO hard, but i have been known to chirp my tires (26" grabbers) on occasion. i believe tho in this case you are limited to clutches/flywheels available for EA cars. i could be wrong on that and if i am please correct me if i am.

well, i might have an answer to one of my issues, the cv started clickin pretty good the other day. i agree its hard to diagnose somethign over the internet if it isnt a standard problem. its definately not in gimp mode. i definately know how fun that is to drive in.

i remember hearing about cleaning a little screen when i was having issues with my last outbacks trans, but never knew what they were talkin about. last cars trans was blinking a code 16 (or 31?) i cant recall but the car got T-boned before i had a chance to investigate it further.

hi guys, sorry to fall off the earth. tires are all the same and i havent noticed any abnormal wearing of any of them more than another. the ATF light comes on and goes off like normal when i start the car. and doesnt come back on at all. where is that screen filter? is it easy to access thru the bottom pan? or need the tail section removed? i have yet to try the fwd switch checks as its been quite a busy/crazy winter

so, since im not well versed in transmission terms.. however i do have a partially disassembled trans from a 2005 Impreza RS 4eat on the floor in my garage, would this be the pack of stacked plates (like a motorcycle clutch) in the rear section of the transmission? is all that is required a replacement of those plates? or is there something else more involved?

its not a limited, and its the original untouched trans, 162k in it, when we got the car a few years ago i had a tranny fluid change. (that was like in 2009 or so) i honestly dont know if this is a new problem, my wife normally drives the car and i just recently started driving it this winter as of the first of the year. she wouldnt notice this happening as she is pretty oblivious to car problems :/ it made the clunk sound, then i added some fluid and the clunk went away but still felt like a delay. i'll try the FWD fuse and see if that makes a difference.

i am not sure what to search for on this and what i did search for didnt seem to find the right stuff. whats happening is that when driving in the snow, i'll give the car gas, and the front wheels will spin and then a few seconds later the power is transferred to the rear end and it drives as usual. I also have noticed when backing out of a parking spot (while turning) i feel like i drag a front wheel (front wheel) what is a cause/remedy of this? i had a small fluid leak (up at the hose connection at the radiator) but i topped off the fluid and it seems no change to the issue. would this be a Duty C solenoid?

i think you might be referring to my modified tempo spring install. with the Moog Springs referenced in that thread i made a while back. id' have to look what spring i used, i think the cc854 if he were to have stuffed the moog springs into the struts with out modification, the strut would be fully extended and have so much preload on it that it would probably pull the strut apart, BUT, having this extension and that much load, it would add to the camber as the control arm being pushed down further. i think if the OP would have gotten everything right from the getgo, he'd have a decent setup, i daily drive my car with 2" front lift, 4" rear (due to springs, 4runner shocks, and 2" BOSS brackets). Hell, i cleared a random spare tire that was laying in the middle of my lane on the freeway, dont do that if a car is trailing you fairly close cuz they probably wont fair that good, LOL!. my setup is still working great, exception being a blown rear shock (4runner shock), i blame this on the potholes all over my city. some of them are a damn foot deep. :/

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Nice pics, Far as your snorkel. Did you figure it out yet? You might look at another brands snorkel to modify or make your own from PVC

ok, after you dig into it and see whats needing to be done let me know if you might be interested in my motor. im gonna need to get it moved before snow starts falling.

Where are you located?

Hey. I do have a near complete (just missing a vacuum hose I believe) ea82. I would love it to move out of my dads garage It ran fine when pulled for an ejswap

ok, thanks for the clarification. makes sense that it should match the heads if the blocks are all identical. its running well but i wanted to replace the belt just cuz the one on there has been sitting in a junkyard for a couple years on a shelf

How many teeth should the timing belt have for a frankenmotor setup? i looked on Rock auto, they listed a 223 tooth belt for a 99 sohc 2.2l and a 211 tooth belt for a 95 2.2l. im running 99 2.5block with 95 22heads currently im just running the belt that was on the junkyard '95 ej22.

i hear ya, i love brats, granted i was 4 in 1982, but they are just awesome! wish i had one.

could be faulty wiring possibly too. if its like mine, you could clear it via the battery, and it'll run fine, but it'll come back maybe couple start cycles down the road, maybe couple days, but it'll probably come back, Luckily that car got Tboned and i never had to finish solving that problem, LOL

could i just space down the trailing arm brackets with some blocks? no close JY's have a 96-99 outback(believe it or not).. and i dont know if i'll have time to drive 40 miles to the pick n pull

i have used the Herculiner on the lower part of my wagon. its held up real well. and the only problem areas (my car has alot of them) was where it was rusting from the inside outwards. the coat on the outside has held up strong. I do agree though that a spray on epoxy type would have been the best option, but it seems nobody will spray anything but beds, around here atleast. maybe i should start a wheel well spray on liner business here in the midwest.

i'll check that next time i rip it apart, i have to drive the car pretty regularily so i had to put the stock one back on. but i am pretty sure there was still room to spare yet. i'll double check tho.